Check Engine Light? Car Knock Sensor Low Input - Code P0327 P0332

Did you get a check engine light for the code P0327 or P0332, but you aren't really sure what it is or how to fix it? This video is for you! In this video, Andy explains the trouble that causes the code P0327 or P0332, knock sensor circuit low input. He shows you how to diagnose the knock sensors by reading their signals, and also inspecting their wiring harness. He also explains what engine knock is, and why the sensors are important to your vehicle's engine!

If you liked this video, check out some of our other great informational videos!

⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

[AAuto]

√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*

[RD-uhte]

Update: Check your compressor tensioner pulley, mine was bouncing and tapping just enough to cause bank 2 to throw the code. I thought it was the compressor but found the pulley issue.

[ShkurtPavarsia]

I've had both of those codes P0327 and P0332 on a 2004 VW Jetta 2.0L. I replaced both sensors and check engine light would come back on sometimes right when I would turn the car on and sometimes before I would drive the car 1 mile. I unplugged both sensors and I checked the voltage and Sensor 1 said 0.00 Volts. Sensor 2 said 1.85V. So right there I knew I had a short somewhere or a bad ground. I just started unwrapping the engine harness last weekend and followed one of the sensor wiring all the way to the ECU, I kept bending the wires and looking for any cuts or corrosion but didn't see anything. Then I put everything together and when I started my car, the P0332 code was gone. Now I'll be messing with the other knock sensor wiring that goes through the injector harness and hopefully I can fix the other code too. If that doesn't fix the P0327 I'll just do new wiring for that sensor cause it's cleary not getting any power. Hopefully this helps someone that can't figure out where their problem is after replacing both knock sensors and check engine light comes back on.

[dmon]

I want to thank you for your video and the visual explanation. I have a Subaru Impreza 120k miles, what I saw in your explanation was a spark plug. I replaced mine first time, the car drives like new now. Thank you again.

[waynesalekin]

I've done this job twice now. First with after market cheap knock sensors. Then I paid top dollar for OEM sensors on my 2005 6L GMC. Knock sensor #2 both times within a day. #2 was slightly corroded but I thought I'd cleaned it up nicely at the very beginning of this job. I used a bit of never seize both times. The OEM ones came in a bag from Amazon. Not protected at all. Thought that was weird. I'll be pulling it apart again next week on days off. First round was over 4 hrs. second was under 2 hrs. So this wont be terrible but it's not a job I enjoy. Very frustrating. I will be using a multimeter on these before I pull them. Thank you very much for this video. Super helpful. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.

[gybx]

This test may not work with certain models of knock sensor. For my 2008 G6, the new sensor and old sensor both measured Open Loop from pin-to-pin and there was a range of mVac from each with the standard knock test. I was concerned after watching this video, but when I put in the new sensor, code P0327 cleared, idling smoothed out, and acceleration improved.

[tommak]

"Don't drop them' as you juggle. Bravo, great showmanship. The technical part of your presentation was great too, My Engine Light comes on and I thought it might be the gas cap. So I reseat the gas cap and the light will go away if I drive an hour or so. The light. The light seems like it only comes on every six months or so and then go away. So today when the light came on I went to Autozone to get it checked, and when the guy came out to plug his instrument in the car the check engine light was gone again. But the AutoZone guy plugged in and got historical code of PO327. Since this happens so irregular, does that mean the sensor still works (most times) or could it be a sign of actual knocking, and if so, what would cause the knocking? Bad fuel, plugged fuel filter, ????

[shanali]

YOU GUYS HAVE TO BE KIDDING ME!!! I have already replaced these once in my truck. One went bad and then I had to do it AGAIN!!! I understand mistakes or defects happen but here’s the cherry on top. The one I replaced twice went bad AGAIN, and so did the other one I replaced the first time. This is bs I’m beyond pissed rn. Gotta waste another afternoon!!! This was my first time buying from 1AAuto and this is how it went. Unbelievable.

[Landaux]

Well, I had my check engine light come on and read that code of the knocks sensor… i cleared the code… would repeatedly come back on for a period of a few months… until I put super unleaded in the tank, cleared it again and it hasn’t come back on since for several weeks now 👍😎

[RD-uhte]

Does the PO332 cover anything else other than the knock sensors? I replaced both sensors and harness and am still getting the PO332 code for bank 2. I test and get 99.8k on the rear 102.3k on the front sensor both good and within specs. Then test the sensors for ac voltage on tap and both are working perfectly. Code pops randomly anywhere from 1 to 5 weeks after clearing the code.

[marcovazquez]

I replaced both knocking sensors on my 2005 Yukon XL last weekend and yesterday the codes came back on is there any explanation?

[PontiacBandit]

Great, now to just take off the intake manifold...

[DELTRANIO]

Awesome Vid, BTW does a P0332 cause a lack of power to the engine too

[pawpawtx]

After replacing my knock sensors 3 times in a week my dealer found they had a bad set of knock sensors on they're shelves that GMC had recalled that they didn't know about. Check recalls on your parts yourself, or at least recalls that dealers don't .

[IKnowAGuyLLC]

What happens when you replace the sensors TWICE, both times with GM sensors, and it keeps throwing the code? 😭

[nicolaslabelle]

I actually like this guy way better than the other guys for some weird reason. Maybe it's because he can juggle.... that's probably the only reason why.

[raycamba]

Love your guys videos! Barely got these codes last night

[MelaniaSideWigga]

Thanks for the walkthrough. I always appreciate your concise explanations of the issues.

I have a 2002 Suburban with this PO332 code & am going to delve into the problem.

One thing that you pointed out may help me I/d & perhaps solve this, plus one other issue that I have:.

Every 2-3 months, I get a "Low Coolant" indication on the gauge panel.

When you showed that the Knock Sensor was corroded, that makes me think that I have a slight leak, . maybe originating at the Intake. Perhaps this will help kill2 birds...

And, quite often, I find that an error code is only a symptom of something else, a root problem.

It would be a lot more helpful if the OBDII System was designed to find root problems. But, it is what it is.

Anyway, a BIG Thanks to you guys, again.

[ajrobbs]

DONT MAKE THIS MISTAKE!Not all knock sensors work but you tapping near it also depend how many hertz (hz) are required for that sensor to produce a/c voltage.newer cars take 6, 000hz meaning 6, 000 taps per second.not gonna happen .the right solution is to make car run lean(create a knock ) then check output using a scanner.

[HK-qjim]

Another good video. I ran a tank of E85 in my 2013 Tahoe.
It is supposed to be compatible. I Think the E85 might have caused the 0332 code.