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90-Second Chef: How to Make the Best Scrambled Eggs
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Nothing cooks as quickly—and tastes so satisfying—as an egg. A proper dish of scrambled eggs should tumble out of the skillet into soft, creamy curds. But great scrambled eggs require finesse. In fact, scrambled eggs might just be the easiest dish everyone gets wrong.
The first mistake is assuming that nature knows best. Just because an egg contains a set ratio of whites to yolks doesn’t mean you should follow suit. Whites are rich in proteins (which help turn liquid eggs into a semisolid when cooked) as well as water, while yolks provide the fat and the flavor. We found that adding a couple extra yolks not only enriches the egg flavor, but also helps stave off overcooking, because the extra fat and emulsifiers in the yolks raise the coagulation temperature. For the same reason, we prefer half- and-half instead of the usual milk. More fat means less chance of overcooking the eggs—and richer flavor.
The right technique is just as important. Most novice cooks use too much heat and the eggs turn out tough and watery. Excess heat actually wrings moisture out of the eggs (much like a sponge), leaving tough curds in a sea of unappealing liquid.
That said, a blast of heat is essential to convert some of the moisture in the eggs to steam. (it’s the steam that makes scrambled eggs fluffy.) We recommend starting the eggs over medium-high heat and then turning the heat to low. if working on an electric stovetop, use a second burner (heated on low) to create scrambled eggs that will be a revelation, even to seasoned cooks.
4 Key Tips for Scrambled Eggs:
Crack Cleanly: There’s nothing worse than bits of shell in the finished dish. Don’t crack eggs on the rim of a bowl. A flat surface, such as the counter, ensures the cleanest break.
Scramble Thoroughly But Gently: Many cooks mistakenly think that “scrambled” refers to the cooking method. In fact, the eggs are scrambled (to combine the whites and yolks) before they go into the pan. Don’t bother with a whisk or mixer, which will overbeat the eggs; a fork is the simplest and best tool for the job.
Small Nonstick Pan + Butter: You could make scrambled eggs in a conventional pan (cooks did for many centuries), but nonstick makes it so much easier. A well-seasoned cast-iron pan can work and is the best alternative if you don’t use nonstick. For eight eggs, we use a 10-inch pan—crowding the eggs in the pan traps steam and ensures fluffy results. Use an 8-inch pan when cooking four eggs (or less). Whatever the pan material or size, don’t bother making scrambled eggs unless you’re willing to use butter.
The Right Fold: Despite what you might think, the eggs shouldn’t be stirred constantly while they cook. Instead, fold them with a rubber spatula into a tidy (and high) pile that traps steam. More steam means more volume. So, for light, tender eggs, be gentle and use a rubber spatula.
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