Fixing a bad design with 3D printing #DIY #3dprinting #design

[sertiz]

Never had a problem with those mounts. They are great.

[nevillesmith]

Great design. How about designing a squeeze handle like the guys have that does woodwork. Easier to clamp it down then to keep turning the handle or even better...design a vice grip like handle

[utkua]

Correction, they never fall out from your desk, even the cheapest ones have more robust design and materials than what you did.

[filipwassen]

I have never had a light clamp fall if my table lol
They always work flawlessly

[fumikato]

"i invented a problem"
-a guy with 3d printer

[kaijffr]

if you don't have 3d printer just use double sided tape on the base. it will stick better

[wojcei]

Looks more like the plastic you used rather than the epoxy. I'd bet money that plastic would fail before the epoxied joint let go.

[JoanneFong]

Why don’t you put the peg hole for the lamp over the desk instead of cantilevering it over the side? There’s no momentum on the bracket that way.

[Friendly_Neighborhood_Dozer]

Maybe make some plates to spread out the force of the clamp. That way you can use higher pressure with a lower risk of damaging the wood further. I think a rubbery filament would be good for that.

A custom(not complicated) design that fits well on the clamp and limits the possibility of it sliding off

[summahthevegan]

I really like that you share the files

[xanderwusky]

I really think people tend to design 3D printed parts with way to much glue and that kinda connections.

Personally use nuts and bolts a lot. They often increase the part strength by quite a lot. As well as being a connection you can undo later. Whenever possible I strongly prefer that method.

[bocarlssonrd]

I have a magnifying lamp with the exact same mount and it drove me crazy. The bottom jaw always starts to rotate and slip when you tighten them. My solution was to screw it down to a small piece of acrylic (the bottom isn't solid or flat), then use double sided tape on both sides of the clamping mechanism and finally tighten it as hard as I could. It has worked and you don't have to drill holes. It's still a pain in the ass to move so pick a good spot.

A suggestion: you could use a C-clamp instead. It would not take as much space and should have enough grip strength.

[matejpivoluska]

Have you considered welding a small tube to the F-clamp?

[RabbitsInBlack]

I don't use the conventional mount. I drilled a hole into the table and then added a 3d printed sleeve. Doesn't go anywhere and looks good on the table.

[BillBard]

I had this problem once, but I just drilled a hole in the desk and stuck the lamp on it.

[Duck_side]

Did you try tightening the original clamp? Because it looks like all you did was build what you already had

[XREXP]

So, those bar clamps, you usually can pull the bottom section off completely to reverse the pressure (bow things apart instead of clamp)

If you cannot reverse it, just grind off the stopper rivet and you're good to go.

Then you have one solid printed piece slipping over it. You can also make the solid piece wide enough to accommodate the jaws, and when the screw is tightened down, the cantilevered force clamps down on the slipped over section.

You could also print a small shim, and force the shim in with the jaw if there is not enough cantilevered force to do so.

[Orcastruck]

The reason they are probably falling off of your desk is because your desk is like ¾ on an inch thick, get a peice of wood and put it between the clamp and the desk.

[Punchin]

Try reprinting your v1 in 1 piece with a living hinge and proper layer orientation. Or, just use the factory clamp as they work fine if you use them properly.

[deeeno]

Ironic that an architect lamp would have such a shitty design