Struggling to Sew an 18th Century Corset (1780s stays) - mostly hand-sewn with LEATHER binding

More corset-making adventures - or stay-making in this case. Follow along as I try to sew a pair of half-boned, front-lacing 1780s stays from a Redthreaded pattern (while having a rather hard time getting them to fit). Plus, a mini-lesson on types of silk, as well as tons and tons of hand sewing eyelets, leather binding, and linen lining. This may be my most painful make to date, and also the make I’m most glad to have finished!

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Comments are welcome, please be kind!

[susanhillis]

I have no trouble believing that a thrifty woman would use the “lower quality” silk on an interior garment and saving the money for nicer exterior fabric

[jennieeveleighlamond]

"Two and a half nap's worth of time", "Three days worth of naps" - oh the napping days when it's possible to actually get things done while baby sleeps! You are so much more productive than I ever was during nap time - I think I managed the dishes and was proud of myself. I certainly didn't make a beautiful pair of stays. Thank you for sharing this!

[LinnMaren]

Not only am I impressed with your garment, but so very impressed with your perseverance! My goodness, I am jealous of your brain!
Also, as a “questioning/beginner” costumer I love that you are demonstrating a combination of traditional and modern techniques. Personally I can get a little bogged down by all the percieved historical requirements, and thus get demotivated, so this is really encouraging to see! Thank you for sharing, know that you have made the path to my next project a little easier!😊👏🏼

[woodenkat]

Counting life by naps. Yep, you are definitely a mom! It looks so good!

[thespaceshuttlechallenger]

I have had good success by soaking my leather bindings in water for an hour or so (until there are no longer air bubbles escaping from them) and then sewing them on while they were wet. This makes the leather more malleable and easier to sew in the short term, and it also helps 'train' the leather to hold the shape it was in when it dries. So, put your freshly-bound stays up on a mannequin, wrapped around a pillow, or anywhere else where they'll be in an approximate 'on a person' shape while they dry, and when you come back, the leather both holds its bend *and* helps hold the shape of the stays. I also stretched the strips in my hands a little before I sewed them on, so that they'd go on in that stretched state and be able to 'relax' back into the shape of the curve as they dries, which helped keep the binding from bunching. If your leather really doesn't want to behave, beating it into submission is also an option, if done carefully with a smooth but heavy object while the leather is still wet.

I also worked both the front and the back of the binding at the same time (placing one stitch on one side, passing the needle completely through the stays, placing one stitch on the other side, rinse and repeat), so that the leather can adapt to the shape it will actually be in when the stays are complete (rather than being sewn onto one side, adapting to that shape, only to be bent over and sewn into a completely different shape when the other side is secured.) It was fiddly and tedious to do it that way, but at least it was done once it was done.

[WARPAINTandUnicorns]

I'm thankful I saw this before buying their patterns. Everyone that does print should have registration marks for merging. it's not the hard and you don't need to get fancy just have them in the 1" bleed area along the edges of the pages and repeat the pattern for alignment for the easy.

I need to make a stay front but victorian side hip-hugging and back corset for a costume I'm making. It has been hard to find the best of both worlds to merge with half boning.

[mioutx]

I saw on the Tudor Tailor where they hammered down a leather binding with a mallet to flatten it.
.

[iraisrose]

I’ve decided to make me some stays and purchased this pattern. I saw your video had a similar look and decided to watch. Turned out to be the same pattern. I actually ordered the printed pattern not the PDF and had it mailed (it was shipped the same day and tquick to arrive) also purchased their fabric kit. I’m hoping to get started on it soon and to not run into issues like you, but if so, I’m glad I saw your video with troubleshooting to help me resolve what I might encounter. Some other videos only show everything going smoothly. Wish me luck and I’m definitely doing a Muslin or linen mock up.

[Lara-hbyn]

I had similar issues with this same pattern, I spent months on it and remaking the pattern

[sophiebird]

For anyone considering using this pattern, I am currently making a pair and it seams the issues she had have been solved! (although I admit I don't totally understand the issue she had aligning the pattern, is there an issue with just lining up the edges, boning channels or whatever?)

[mindofmarissa]

The making process can be so frustrating sometimes. I relate to you on that. Being a mom and having limited time to do things is another relation point. They turned out great!

[jomercer]

I refuse to buy e-patterns that don't include the large format printing option, where you can take it to Staples, UPS Store or other copy shop and it runs on 36" wide paper--no taping!

Having no registration marks at all is inexcusable, considering the prices they want for these patterns.

Ladies of modest means would definitely have had to resort to lower quality fabrics; therefore, a slubbier fabric is historically accurate!

Dremel FTW (with proper PPE). A good way to finfish the ends of steel bones is to use a couple of layers of heat shrink insulation that electricians use. I've never found chalk to be a useful marking method.

Very nice outcome!

[frilindsay]

I had the same same same problem. Way too big. The next time I make these I’m tweaking the measurements just like you did.

[Dumpsterfire]

if you make again a leather chamois would be thinner leather and ive seen other costumers use it, plus its cheaper than most other leathers

[tammymasson]

Very incredible results and super fun to watch! Ironically I got the most sewing accomplished when my children were small. True, much of it was done after they went to bed, at least the cutting out was. It's a joy to watch you!

[penelope-oevr]

I had the same issue so bad with one of her patterns after 2 months of anger I asked for a refund.

[LostOne]

I'm a leather worker and leather doesn't do well with curves as you've seen. I make a few cuts on curves to form the leather on curves to prevent bunching

[TimesmithDressHistory]

Wow, you triumphed in coming up with solutions in the face of obstacles, right from that first mock-up! When you get your hands on a copy of 'Patterns of Fashion 5' one day, prepare to have your mind blown!

[LadyRebeccaFashions]

They might have been tedious, but they look really great!

[lisahodges]

Please wear a thimble when sewing for your own safety. Gorgeous stays, they are a lovely fit, well worth the mock ups.
Birdy