5 Reasons Your Chainsaw Cuts Crooked & How To Fix It!

There are a number of reasons why your chainsaw saw is cutting in crooked or curved. it doesnt matter if it's a stihl, husqvarna, echo or other chainsaw, it's the same for them all! In todays video I cover each cause, the fix and how to avoid it in the first place! Don’t put off chainsaw maintenance, little and often and your saw will cut quickly safely and predictably!

TOOLS I USE:

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#stihlchainsaw #chainsawrepair #smallengine #husqvarna #diy

[ThinkAIst]

I’ve watch many many videos due to my “art” of cutting a curve whether with a bread knife or a chainsaw and you certainly expressed very simply. Thank you. And your now obvious idea of balancing the bar is much appreciated.

[TheLawnmowerLady]

Great video Tom! I had no idea you could get a tool to straighten/align the bar. I learnt something today!

[GuysPlayingWithTools]

I have never spent much time thinking anything more than sharp and not sharp. Good video 👍

[steveriggenbach]

Great information. When dressing the bar please remember the sharp edges and put just a slight slight bevel on them with a file.

[KensSmallEngineRepair]

Good info Tom. Most consumers just chuck the old bar out and buy a new one!

[lewishorton]

Well done sir! You did an excellent job!

[rickthelian]

Congratulations on reaching over 4, 000 Subscribers

[patrickvennard]

Real good advice I have just had to order a new Valorbe bar dresser as mine finally gave out. I really wish Stihl would make Hexa chain in .325 as filling by hand in the field is so much easier.

[tinkeringtaylor]

Really good advise Tom, i think you missed one reason and thats the operator 🤣🤣

[tl]

Another very informative tutorial.
I like "little and often" as a rule for touch ups.
Today i ripped the rounds of birch from one of the trees i took down yesterday. There were large stems going in every direction at the base of the tree, and i had to get the cut as flush to the ground at the request of the customer. I used the stihl 501(light weight bar), freshly sharpened, and sharpened twice more before i cut small enough pieces that i could dolly up the ramp in to my truck.
Because of the hardness, 60" diameter and every direction of grain of the wood, im curious what tips you have to make that part of the job easier on my saw and chain.
Id love to here what you've got to say!

[williamemerson]

My last sharpening gadget purchase was a Pferd CS-X. It does the tooth and raker at the same time. Unfortunately you can't just simply change the file size for your different chains. The proper guide is determined by the pitch of the chain. That being said, it's small enough to put in your pocket or tool pouch and I'm happy with it.
I still have and use a Granberg that works great on all saw chains that I've had over the years. It's probably 45/50 yrs. old.
It's my understanding Pferd makes the same guide for Stihl. Different color. 🥴
Another good video. 👍🍻

[MHolt]

What is the part number for that bar dressing tool?

[bushratbeachbum]

Can't see the bar dressing tools in the list.
Are they somewhere else?

[almclean]

Good tips Tom. One thing though, when sharpening a chain or dressing the bar wear gloves. Ask me how I know ! 😁

[jamesrappaport]

I bought a brand new chain and bar 20imch, husqvarna 450 rancher and it hooks to the left, when I start the cut it boggs down and just doesn't cut right, I've never seen anything thing like this In 40 years

[mrpearl]

I bought chains ( it came as a 2pack ) and one cut at an angle must have been made on a Monday 😡

[ReasonablySane]

I have 25 acres of woods and am constantly cutting trees to either clear stuff that fell, create trails, or cut firewood. Lately I noticed my saw will bind on larger logs as if it's being pinched, except I'm cutting a tree that is hanging in midair. i.e. it is anything but pinched.

However, I watched your video and it so complicates the dynamics of a chainsaw chain, that it just makes me want to throw the whole thing away. It's simply not worth that much effort and "precision". At least not to me. If it's really that hard, why do people do it?

Interestingly, in the 70's we would cut tons of firewood out of alder in the Seattle area and never had any problems. Cuts were always smooth and fast. And on rare occasion we would sharpen the blade with a simple file. It had a thumb press blade oiler. Now, I live in Kentucky and there is poplar, oak, walnut, hickory, cedar, etc. And cutting firewood is a royal pain. In fact, about a quarter inch of the edges of the top and bottom of the blade (I reversed it) are blue with heat, even though there is plenty of oil getting to it. I will occasionally even see sparks come off the chain even though there is no metal, rocks or dirt coming in contact with it. I use a Stihl MS 290, BTW.

FWIW, I always thought a hydraulic wood splitter was just an extravagance. Then I tried to split Hickory. I bought a hydraulic splitter.😉