Harbor Freight Sand Blaster - Setup and First Use

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Harbor Freight Sand Blaster - Setup and First Use. Central machinery 20 pound media blaster review

Here is a video on the initial set up of the sandblaster

 Harbor Freight Sand Blaster - Setup and First Use

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Check out more of our tractor videos here:

Rockhill Farm is a daily equipment and rural living vlog. We mainly focus on tractors and working outdoors.

I really appreciate you taking time to watch this video. If you enjoy this type of content Check out some of the following links to support our channel.

If you are interested in a rock Hill Farms T-shirt check out our merch store



Follow on Facebook at


You can now support the channel by buying us a coffee at the following link:

RockhillfarmYT
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I have used one of these before. It got it done but took alot of time. After using one of these I decided to try something better. I bought the 110 pound Blaster at the flea market for 50 bucks used. Went to the sandblasting supply and got a more course sand. Loaded it up. And got after it. I did the entire side of a 20 foot shipping container in 3 hours. The more course sand at it up. It was costly for the sand. I decided to go even cheaper. I took my dump trailer to the local sand pit. Bought a couple tons of masons sand for 25 bucks. Brought it home. I tossed about 10 shovel fulls on a piece of plate steel I got laying around every morning. Let the hot texas August sun burn the moisture out of it. Put it in buckets. Once it was all dry and in buckets I did the second container. Wasn't quite as fast but sure was cheaper. Masons sand is finer than the stuff from the sandblasting store. Anyway use a respirator with sand. Your lungs will thank you. I also used a big fan to blow the paint and bouncing sand away from me. It was hot but wasn't too bad. I was using a gas air compressor rated at 24 scfm at 150 psi. I ran a regulator on it to keep it constant. Sandblasters generally work better with the air wide open and the sand regulated.

sanjacintooutdoors
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Hey Brock, me again. After using a blaster like that on car and motorcycle frames for the last 40 years or so you will want to take it down to the bare metal or like I said in a previous video you can use a rust inhibitor such as "Rust Mort" on it. But I've found it better since you already bought the blaster to do it that way. Then you can sand it, put a good red oxide or epoxy primer on it and a good quality automotive paint. Primer is not waterproof so if left outside in the weather with just primer on it without being covered it will rust from the inside out. Just trying to help. God bless you, your family, and God bless America!! 👍👍

johngersna
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I bought me a camping tent for my work shop to recycle my sand for my small projects clean up is a breeze 😁🎪

MacPakinga-glbu
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Thank you, I had considered one not knowing how they worked. If I want to repair a rusty watch I'll consider it.

turdferguson
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I'm glad you made this video, I am in the market for a blaster and ha e been looking at several models.

TKCL
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Think that will be great for getting inside tight areas of the frame and places where you can't get a grinder with a flap sanding disk or wire wheel into. And keep the amount of blasting media you use reasonable. This was very helpful as I have looked at those and thought about it but never gone any further than that. I can see some great uses for that for things I am messing with, so I will likely pick one up soon. Thanks for the video and have a good one!!

stephenlehr
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I'm learning here with you. I've never used a sand blaster... Thanks for the video, Brock. 👍

rodshepard
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I have the same blaster from 2005. I had some 20 foot bar joists that had light surface rust. I tried the little gun that came with the box. I had 9 to clean so I got a larger gun and added another section of hose. Bigger gun worked way better.

omahanb
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I had the blaster like yours. The media valve was all brass, and wore ahole in the body after a short time. Replaced with stainless valve. I replaced it with the 100 lb. Blaster. It worked well, didn't have to stop andrefill as often. I have a 5 hp compressor and have to stop and let catch up after 10 or 15 min. By then Im ready for ashort breather. TSC has cheap ground slag in different grades of grit. Sand is very hadorous to your health, need a air supply to a good hood to use sand.

haroldgrisham
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Hey Brock, I've got one of them. They work ok, but takes a lot of cfm's. If you want to speed the process, increase the nozzle size and volume of air with two compressors. Clean down to bare metal and don't touch it after it's blasted. Get primer and paint on ASAP while humidity is low and temperature is perfect conditions if possible. Keep up the great work.

workingmanrondoyle
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Good video!! I bought the 15.00 dollar plastic harbor freight sandblaster bought bag of media at tsc for 12 dollar did a frame on a Toyota pickup worked great 1 bag did whole frame. Gettin ready to do another one. I just have a 2 gallon harbor freight super quiet compressor. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun enjoy

mikerequa
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Hey Brock, I think your compressor is adequate but your using a fine blasting media that more suited to finish work and not rust removal. Walnut works well but is expensive and really requires collection and reuse or you’ll be seeing your wallet getting lighter. Black Diamond 1040 or 1240 medium to coarse slag abrasive is what you should try and a 50 lb bag should only cost 8-10 bucks. It’ll be like using coarse sand paper versus fine sand paper which is what you’re currently using. Also, keep the media flowing and recycle after filtering and you should see faster results and spend less money. Good luck.

KimCollinson
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👍👍🔥🔥 another great project. Love old farm equipment!!

genewilliams
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I’ve blasted with Silica Sand, Walnut Shells, steel shot, glass beads, copper slag, soda, garnet and crushed coal clinkers. They all do different finishes.

akbychoice
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One of those outdoor carports that HF sells (Captain Cleeman's brother bought one) with a large tarp for the floor, you'd be able to reuse your blasting media and make less of a mess. Good place to use when it comes to painting as well.

numberFan
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Hey Brock! Thanks for the video. It sure is nice to be able to learn from others.

With that being said, refer to your coating mfg. application spec sheet for proper surface preparation. It will specify required cleanliness (wire brush, sweep blast, near white, white, etc. as defined by sspc) additionally, the required anchor profile be defined, as will be environmental conditions & the proper base and intermediate coats.

Hope this helps.

MsChiefchick
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I bought a sandblasting gun from amazon, and a bag of dry play-sand... I could do 1 square inch before my air compressor (15-20 gallon craftsman air compressor) ran out of air... so from my view, YOU'RE DOING GREAT BROCK!

OldIronAcres
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I'd use the Eastwood Contour or HF sander to remove a majority of the substrate rust/paint and the blaster for difficult to reach areas. I'll probably pick one of these up for just this case. Thanks for the vid!

ZING-ojzi
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I have one... the key to these is DRY use a dryer inline and DRY garnet media, ... limit the flow of media and these work really I did some mods on the legs on mine ... and I use ceramic tips on the WELL WORTH IT ! I've blasted many items with perfect results... make sure you have and use a quality hood when blasting.👍👍👍😁

robertlafnear
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