What hides 3D Print Layer Lines Better, Resin or Resin with Baby Powder

Comparing the process of using UV Cure Resin VS and Resin with Baby Powder added to cover a 3D print to remove layer lines.

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Items used in this build:

Resin Used:

Paint used:
Blue:

Red:

White:

Metallic Silver:

AirBrush:

UV lights:

Motor for UV turntable

Starbond CA glue:

[darthslagle]

This is a good video to explain some differences. I've been an autobody shop manager and tech for nearly 30 years. We've been working with acrylic resin, fiberglass resin, modern autobody filler, which is a polyester resin, and old school paddling lead. Lead was the body filler many years ago. So basically, adding the powder to the resin is just making it thicker. The same thing is done with autobody fillers. And you can add acetone to body filler to do the same thing, but it has to be a one part filler. Not 2 part. For adhesion, we have found that you actually get better adhesion by using the filler/acetone combo. What happens is the acetone actually softens the part, allowing the "slurry" to flow into the actual plastic. When the acetone evaporates, the filler is all that's left. To explain a little more in depth, acetone opens pores in the plastic. The slurry flows into the pores. The acetone evaporates, and the pores contract around the slurry. Because the acetone is what liquefied the filler and opened the pores in the plastic, when it evaporates, the pores close, and the filler dries at the same rate. The upside to the resin/powder combo is it's probably stronger. The upside to the filler/acetone combo is you don't need a UV light. We use both depending on the circumstances.

[thedeterminedslaker]

I liked the stair test. The resin and powder are great for coverage and deep lines that need to be filled. The resin only might be good for high detail areas where some of the detail needs to come through.

[tony-mora]

That staircase example was genius to show what is happening. Great video!

[ImmortalReaver]

I tried out the resin and baby powder after watching your video. It works great! I used it to fill in some seam lines. Since you gave me a tip, I'll give you one. If you want a more precise pour for the baby powder, just duct tape over some of the holes.

[dekopuma]

I appreciate the return of the non-disposable glove.

[Animal_House_Prints]

Your getting my sub just for saying “don’t forget to put on your gloves or everyone will remind you!” Love it

[deedsvp]

Great video, thank you. It would be great to see some destructive testing to see if one method or the other chips off more easily.

[ObGoRat]

Good job on comparing the two methods! A few small gripes though: 1) when you first cured the resin+powder, you afterwards cured the resin only and resin+powder at the same time (so resin+powder got cured two times while resin only was cured one time) 2) please recommend to wetsand and use a mask while doing so as resin dust can be inhaled and quite toxic.

[jcugnoni]

Hi. Corn starch tend to create a kind of gel. In epoxy, we frequently use fumed silica to achieve a thixotropic state (does not run). It could work as well with UV resin and it usually does not require a lot to work.

[rayr]

RC plane hobbyists for decades have used similar methods for sanding and smoothing while using epoxy/resins. Instead of Baby Powder, we used a product called Microballoons.

[frothyground]

I always love that airbrush pron! Gets me every time.

[j.m.johnson]

Thank you for the video! I’ve been using XTC 3D and haven’t been happy with it. I’m going to try your concoction.

[MrYabbie]

effective test. Thanks for showing us the process. I prefer the resin & powder finish.

[gogotrololo]

So i love this test! It tells me that for 3D prints, to do your first coat in pure resin to make use of the capilary action to get a good seal/bond with the surface features, then flip to the powder version to build on top of the pure resin to start the fill/finish.

[leor]

great setup for the shots, and very good explanations, i would go for resin+powder 100% of the time, you can even look the layer lines in the resin only print if you look closely after paint

[kwaad]

It's really interesting to see the viscosity difference between the two. What I would really like to see, would be how that compares with using a two-part epoxy tabletop resin. I Make my own filament, to whatever color specification that I want, with sparkle effect. I typically just essentially dip my entire model, in tabletop resin. And then I hang it to let it cure. And amazingly, the layer lines vanish, the color becomes so much more vibrant, and any effect particulates in the base material, is absolutely amazing. But what I most curious about, is how a high viscosity resin, which has surface tension modifiers designed to self-level, and enhanced coverage. Versus a grade of resin that is designed to shed off of the parts, and designed to be as thin as possible.

[ddegn]

Thank you for adjusting the music.
Thanks for sharing your experience with us.

[wooly_thyme]

I haven't even gotten my printer in the mail yet and I already feel powerful! I don't have the space needed for a resin printer and I was wondering if I could get resin-like finishes with PLA. I already cast with UV resin on a small scale, so this is gonna be fun! Thank you!

[Zonnashi]

Awesome video! I love learning about how certain processes and steps differ at various points. Both of these resin coats have some benefits or drawbacks depending on the situation you need it for.

[Baltojikale]

Thanks to your previous video I was able to fix, fill and smooth 3dprinted mask.... The process works as a charm.. i used potato starch and anycubic resin (aqua blue). The weight ratio was 2:1 (resin to starch). Used two uv sources (365 nm ~ 17w optical power and 395 nm uv led flashlight. In most cases illuminated about 2-10 sec per layer. Sanded only after building up all the layers. It took me about 2 hours to fully smooth the full face mask. Also used a small spatula attached to the drill to ensure good mixing of components.