Why you must read Derek Dunfee's big wave surfing book

Derek's book stands out among my collection of all-time favorite surfing books. It invites readers on an exhilarating emotional odyssey and it features a genuine narrative arc, a quality often absent in most surfing publications. I recommend this exceptional and authentic literary gem to everyone.

Anyone had the opportunity to peruse Derek's "Waking up in the Sea" book? I'm curious to hear about your reading experience and what you thought of the book. Drop them in the comments below!

@derekdunfee is a XXL big wave paddle award winner, photographer whose work has graced the cover of The Surfer's Journal, and published a riveting book about his big wave surfing journey called Waking Up in the Sea.

In this interview we go deep into everything from him cutting his teeth at Cloudbreak and Hawaii, his initial forays into surfing proper big waves at Mavericks including the award-winning wave that changed his life forever, to his near drowning at Cortez Bank, and how that inspired a pivot to photography, his recent book, and his mission to raise awareness around concussions.

Along the way we cover his advice to beginner surfers, how to deal with fear, holding your breath in bigger waves, the importance of having a mentor, and many other nuggets of wisdom to help take your surfing to the next level whether you're surfing 1 ft waves or 60 ft waves.

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