OLDER TOYOTA 22R TIMING CHAIN OR TIMING COVER INSTALL

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OLDER TOYOTA 22R TIMING CHAIN OR TIMING COVER INSTALL

Ron Williams
Mobile Fix Automotive
26793 Madison Ave Suite 100
Murrieta, Ca. 92562
951-579-7146

MY WAY TO INSTALL A TIMING CHAIN ON A 2.4 TOYOTA 22R ENGINE.
SORRY THE VIDEO CUT SHORT. JUST PULL OUT TOOL AND REASSEMBLE. AND YOUR DONE!

[adammcewen]

Your gadget saved the day. I used a wire hanger with a section of an old wind chime. I destroyed a head gasket and wasted a small tube of gasket before watching this video. Thanks!

[cbh]

Wow, this is exactly what I needed to see since I'm in the middle of replacing my broken plastic chain guides (w/ new chain, sprockets, tensioner, oil/water pumps, etc as well). Perfect timing, pun not intended haha

[WeaselBurrito]

The timing chain tensioner holder is brilliant. Have struggled with a couple of these over the years. Glad I came across that little trick, getting ready to do a chain/guides/timing cover on my 87.
FYI, on the 4x4 versions of this truck, there is just enough room to squeak the oil pan out without pulling the motor. You have to drop the pan and reach in and unbolt the pickup tube/screen as well loosen the motor mounts and jack the motor up. IIRC, the front driveshaft has to come out too. Ones that have a suspension lift are easier.

[Jeus-ho]

Hi Ron Williams, this trick is nice. I use a bungee cord or some times a wire to wrap that sprocket and timing chain in place and hook it up to a piece of long wood going across the top of the body of truck. :) Thanks for the great video Ron Williams.

[danamurch]

Rotating the crank back and forth, while pulling up on the timing chain will compress the tensioner as well.

[SANTACRUZKITESURFING]

So, in my 35 years worth of experience playing with the single link timing chain on this 22R/22 Re:, if you pull the cylinder head then you put the new timing chain components on and set up The chain on the crank and cam gear marks with the marked links corresponding to the marked teeth on each gear, sag the chain to the passenger side and keep the bottom of the chain tight up against the bottom gear by wedging the cam gear with the chain on it between the guides. You’ve got to leave all the slack of the chain on top of the crank gear in front of the timing chain tensioner block. That way when you go to slide the timing cover on and seal it to the block and oil pan, the chain keeper on the timing cover slides underneath the chain. I always put a thin film of ultra gray silicone on the pan on the bottom of the cover, then put a thin film on the passenger and driver side timing cover gaskets and Bolt tte cover on with the gear cradled by the timing chain guides. Once the cylinder head is installed and torqued on top of the timing cover it is easy to put the cam gear on by putting a large screwdriver or prybar in the center of the gear and pry gently down against the cylinder head, lifting the gear, then with The other hand, reach down to the crank pulley and by rocking the crank clockwise and counterclockwise slightly you walk the tensioner back into its cylinder and get enough slack on the chain to slide The gear on the cam. Don’t forget that upper timing cover bolt that goes through the cylinder head before you put the distributor drive gear on the cam. Do not over tighten the bolt or you will crack the timing cover. 😉👌👍

[crow-vzlx]

Bro are you in the Sacramento area. I need your skills to do this exact job in my 92 Toyota pickup.
No ac no power steering so there less bs to deal with

[tips]

I don't know what I learned from this vid but I know I learned something

[ednorton]

A couple of things to note. 1 I suggest applying the silicone to the front edge of the oil pan lip. That way as you slide the front cover in place it is pushed across the lip rather than at the back edge where as the small amount you put on the front lip gathers it wont push the bulk off into the pan. 2, If you look on the label of Permatex silicone it tells you that each color is designed for different applications. Red is for heat as in exhaust manifolds, egr valves etc, blue is for coolant areas, black is for oil areas non compressed. Like the oil pan to lower edge of the front cover. Gray is for oil areas that are compressed .Like the front cover face to the block surface.

[scubagravy]

I used a long flat head screwdriver from the top after i put the head and bolts on, the screw driver reaches down and you lean it against the chain to push the tensioner back in whilst you pull the top sprocket up with chain on and mount it onto cam shaft.

[GoBrits]

Tell me about the copper spray. I was going to coat the gaskets with High Tack . On an 89 4WD I have mad eh the dreadful mistake of loosening the oil pan instead. I have broken the seal on it and it cannot come out without lifting the engine up so now I have to prepare the entire seal blindly and carefully with a mirror, make sure that I have applied the right amount of gray stuff

[steevo]

Nice trick on the chain tensioner holder.
Steve

[baileysims]

I have a question I hope you may be able to answer. I just recently did all this, engine out of the truck. Checked timing a million times before I put the motor back in the truck as well. Put everything on and disconnected the distributor to prime the motor. Everything went swimmingly until I plugged the distributor back in and then the timing jumped fairly far, and I'm sure bent the shit out of my valves too. Now I've got to do it all over again but I am concerned on how could it have jumped time like that? Did I get a bad tensioner? I'm just scared that when I rebuild the head, it'll jump time again.

[DKLGalactus]

DON"T forget to clean out those screw hols the old silicone will not compress and on some vehicle the cover will crack after tightening bolts so please clean out hole's before the installing process, it will save you a lot of grief.

[tonyjenkins]

Thank you for this video. Just going to start replacing a broken guide. This will save me from pulling the engine out and removing the pan.

[tito]

Tha k you so much for this I just got into a celica with a 22r/re and hand the engine rebuilt but got the engine back with out the timeing cover/chain on I'm entirely new to this engine series and I got most of it figured out but this forsure helped me figure out how to get that cover back on thanks a bunch!

[DKLGalactus]

that was the best video I have seen Thanks for the great tutorial

[briancobra]

why did you not mention that you need to add ultra gray RTV to the top of the timing cover at the corners just like at the bottom? also someone asked about a leak near the oil pump. make sure that the top bolt (right under the timing marker) that goes through the oil pump and into the cover has sealant on it. same for the hidden bolt on the top of the timing cover to head. both needs sealant. but great video.

[snaponunderdog]

Awesome video. Thank God for technology like this and people like you. Thanks for patience

[ocavant]

Don't really need that wedge tool. Just take a rod(old rocker shaft will do) and put the crank bolt on tight. Then take the rod/shaft and put tension up on the cam gear(through the hole) while taking a socket/breaker bar and rocking the crank/chain/sprocket back and forth. The gear will walk right onto the cam and the tensioner will push back into place. Either way works though.