The SECRET To Nailing Your Exposure EVERY TIME

There’s something pros know about exposure that means they come home from every photo shoot with perfect images, and beginners always ignore it.

So in this video I’m going to show you a simple method pros use to easily capture perfectly exposed images, without ever having to worry about all the complicated stuff, like calculating stops, ambient light or metering so you never have to worry about missing the shot again.

[dascudder]

Only took me 2 months of watching different youtube videos to get someone to explain it to us noobies in idiot terms. Well done fella, what a great jumping off point this is

[lovewildlife]

This advice is spot on. As a wildlife photog, it’s the single most important thing I did that increased my keeper rate. To illustrate, imagine a bird in flight that moves from a dark forest background up into a bright sky. Left to the camera, settings would change. But as long as the light on the bird remains constant, you don’t want your camera settings changed. Full manual mode ensures that and you don’t have to worry about adjusting settings while trying to track the moving subject. Great video, Steve.

[willieajenge]

Sir, next time, please SHOW how you do everything you are saying WITH the camera. The talking alone didn't help much, we need visual reference.

[grahamf]

I can see that this is one way to do it, which works for you. If you want lots of shots with t[exactly the same exposure, then this is a good approach. However, you are still using the camera’s meter, which is what auto mode does. In camera, it is often hard to see whether you have blown particular highlights or crushed the blacks.

I use aperture priority mode (Av) almost all the time. I set the minimum shutter speed to prevent blurring and may alter it depending on the type of shooting. I have the histogram turned on in the viewfinder, so I have a clear indication of whether the exposure is drifting too low or high. Of course, the histogram is also useful in manual mode.

Also shoot in raw to maximise exposure latitude.

[iancraig]

In the 60’ and 70’s, using roll film, if we didn’t want to use a meter, we started from this ….

a) same shutter speed as ISO. (100 asa = 1/100th sec)
b) Sunny, f16. Bright f8. Cloudy f5.6. Very dingy f4.
c) Juggle shutter up or down wherever you want but move the aperture the same number of clicks in the opposite direction.

So if it was Sunny. F16 at 1/100th for 100 ISO. However, for shallow depth of field an ND or move the aperture to f1.8 but move the shutter up to a faster speed by the same number of clicks.

I was using an old Mamiya C330 at one time and it really worked. Maybe roll film had more latitude but it was a handy little rule for preparing your camera in advance for running and gunning.

[tonykeltsflorida]

Canon FV mode is what I use. When using the EVF (electronic view finder) outdoors the scene will show you what your photo will look like. FV is almost Manual mode but I find it easier to react and make changes in FV mode.

[bryantwalley]

2:30 the exposure indicator is calculated using the same algorithm that auto mode uses. If you want a great balanced photo, use your camera settings to dial in your LCD to match what you are seeing in your actual photo and your histogram. When those three things match you have a solid baseline to begin your corrections. Next, depending on your order of priority, go into the settings and set the ma/min auto settings for ISO, aperture, and shutter speed you are willing to accept for this particular photo shoot. If you do this every time you will get good at it. Now put the camera in full Auto and take a few test shots. Look at what values it is using then put your camera in manual mode and fine tune it to what you want to see. Once you have done this process a few times it will become habit and you will be able to dial in the camera very quickly every time.

[vtorialyn]

When I discovered bracketing, I was amazed at how I was able to get all the best lighting and shadows on everything!! So fun 😃

[kjchkem]

Steve, you blend entry-level basic information with really useful advice for someone who knows the basics and wants some guidance/reassurance as to the best approach. Thanks for such a clear explanation. My camera (Fujifilm XT-5) is pretty good at handling the noise problem at high ISO levels, so I leave my ISO on auto a lot of the time; I'm much less happy with the Auto-aperture approach (street photography's a different discussion). For some reason, though, I'd drifted away a bit from using full auto: you've given me the confidence to go back to it. Terrific video - thanks so much!

[shaneweightman]

I’m an old timer, 40 yrs ago everything I owned was manual, including focus, so ever camera no matter how up to date high tech, gets the same treatment, 50/50 with the focus, cheers shane uk 🇬🇧

[nismo]

I wish I saw this video when I was starting out. You did an amazing job explaining and simplifying all of these settings. Great educational video.

[anthonywilliamson]

Great video I’m a beginner and I’ve always found it difficult to get the right exposure your explanation has made sense

[simonlewis]

Been out today and followed your workflow for manual. Big breakthrough big breakthrough. Thanks

[mendo]

I've always struggled with getting exposer correct in the camera, (usually fixed in Lightroom) so will definitely try your method next time I'm out.

[RetrieverTrainingAlone]

For moving wildlife bracketing will not work. Typically a shutter speed of 1/500 - 1/000 sec is used. For birds in flight 1/2000 sec. For humming birds in flight 1/4000 sec. We sometimes have to live with high ISO values and noise post-processing using Topaz Labs software.

[VaporTrailMix]

This seems fine for landscape photography. Where you're pointing in one general direction and using a tripod. It's much trickier in event photography where lighting changes as you change direction from back ligting to front lighting not to mention if you're zooming in and out between shots.

[chromakeyblue]

I tried your method and it worked perfect. Easily understood and easy for me. Thank you.

[toufik]

High ISO actually doesn't cause noise in your image. It just shows the noise that was already there due to a lack of light.

[stevepuddlejumperpilot]

I enjoyed this video. Thank you for taking the time and uploading it.

[mustaphaalaouie]

Thank you for making this video and sharing this knowledge, I’ve been trying to use manual mode when shooting on my camera so these tips are useful, very much appreciated.