Dishwasher Diagnostic Mode: find out why your Kitchenaid won’t work

Why isn’t your Kitchenaid dishwasher working? Figure it out using diagnostic mode. This is the hack the appliance repair person doesn’t want you to know. Save the $100 service call and fix it yourself!

In this video the error codes show that there is either a problem with the fill valve or the float switch. I replaced both with these parts:

See my other videos for more information on how to repair common issues for your Kitchenaid, Whirlpool, Jenn-Air, Maytag, Amana, or Roper dishwasher. These techniques should work for similiar models from any of these brands as they are all manufactured by Whirlpool.

This is a Kitchenaid KDTE104ESS1 dishwasher.

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Copyright 2021, NateFixesIt, LLC

[NateFixesIt]

I fixed my dishwasher with these parts:

[juliaoverbeck]

My dishwasher is a different model but I used the 3 buttons on the left in your sequence and I was able to figure it out and now my dishwasher is running. Thank you!!!!

[themaximusone]

Dude flat out Thank you most videos are full of people's fugly kids and pets and they want you to know their whole demented life story but you got straight to the point and it is appreciated, subscribed, shared and liked. Thanks man

[mdinfriscotx]

+1 on this video being very helpful. I discovered my Kitchenaid dishwasher (model KDTE204DSS0) has a slightly different button configuration (maybe a newer model?). On mine, you push the three leftmost buttons (ProWash, Tough, Normal) sequentially three times. Then everything else is the same. Thanks, Nate!

[timzinselmeier]

So helpful. Saved me $1, 000 bucks on a new dishwasher!

[wildthing]

Thank you so much, I have been searching forever for a fix for my dishwasher! I had to unplug it to reset every time I wanted to use it. Mine was a 9-2 code and after I hit the codes the dishwasher came on but no light. It made some noise for about 3 minutes then shut off. When I tried the buttons, this time it worked!

[ptzish]

I had the same (6/4) error code and fixed it for free. My filter in the bottom of the DW was clean, which is deceptive. I had a slightly clogged drain line running to my disposal. It did drain but not well enough - I guess.

I unhooked the line (my drain line is 1/2" pex which is probably too small) at the disposal and blew 125 psi air threw it - back into the dishwasher. Do this with the door shut if you're going to try it or you will make a colossal mess. The drain line just had muck in it. That cleared the clog.

I then took the kick panel off the bottom of the DW and there was water in the little white pan that the float switch sits in. That was what was tripping the float switch. I cleaned that up and put it back together and that fixed the problem.

I assume the main drain line couldn't drain properly and that caused water to back up in the bottom of the DW and that water overflowed through the overflow tube into the float switch pan. The float switch tripped and shut down the DW. There was nothing wrong with the switch. It was just doing its job.

If you have this issue make sure you're fixing the problem, not the result of the problem. If the float switch trips it's because the DW can't drain properly. There's a good chance your filter will look clean but the drain line is mucked up.

If you don't have a compressor and an air chuck - buy one. It's cheaper than calling a repairman and then you'll also have a compressor!

By the way - this is the exact same procedure for clearing the condensation drain line from your A/C air handler inside your house. If your unit shuts down for no known reason find the p trap inside the closet, attached to the unit, and there will be a removable float switch in the top of the p trap. If the line is full of water because it's mucked up with algae, just use that brand new compressor and air chuck to blow out the drain line. Pour some bleach down the line to kill the algae and reinstall the float switch. That will probably save you $300-$400 bucks on a simple service call.

[christophercrawford]

Thanks, Nate for making a straightforward and informative video..great work!!

[MilkUnderTheDam]

Just to contribute to this very useful thread, my Kitchenaid kdte304dss0 has a different button combo also. It used ProWash - Tough - Normal, pressed 3x in the sequence described. All the light came on, I closed the door and it flashed a 7-1 error code, then launched into the test cycle, which took about 10 minutes to complete, during which, the heating element did not turn on (or at least wasn't warm when I opened the door after the "finish" beep.). 7-1 comes up as a non-working heating element, which just confirms what I already suspected. Now trying to find a good video to diagnose and/or replace the element.

[krschimmel]

AWESOME, my buttons were not labled the same but did the ones to the right and left of High temp and it worked!!!! 4-3... now to see what that means :)

[martinsmythe]

Thank you Nate and all those who do what you do and try to help people with repair A couple of thoughts, I came across a movement called "right to repair" could you speak to that? Also for all of us that are capable of fixing things if we know what the problem is. We are being ripped off for parts usually there is not much you can do about that but some times yes. The little black switch in the door mech. used on many types of appliances are called microswitches they wanted $ 26.00 for mine those can be sourced for about $2.00! last year the defrost timer on my freezer went bad priced from about 50 to 70 I found it for $12. Almost all the appliance manufacturers by the parts from some place else if you can locate the source you can save $$$. Again thanks Nate

[dederandall]

PERFECT fix for 2014 Whirlpool dishwasher!
Your Hack spot on other sites not!
Thank you!!!!

[CharliesCuriousCritters]

That 8-6 error code fix saved my weekend!! Thanks!

[fanraiderz]

Thanks very much. You pointed me to how to get the error code. I have, accordint to it, either a wiring harness problem or need a replacement thermistor/OWI sensor. I appreciate the great information!

[christophercrawford]

Nate...thanks for the clear instructions, error code, and parts link..well done!!

[Vdwilde]

Hi Nate, I have the same model as you show. When I run the diagnostic sequence, all the lights turn on, I shut the door and no code is given. If it is like the previous person who asked a question AMD the dishwasher needs to run a small cycle to figure it out, how do you know when to read the codes?

My problem is there is not enough water filling the unit to run a good cycle.

[lightofregan]

Si valuable and yet truly priceless advice. Thanks so 😢 Nate!

[jamessteele]

Buttons a little different: 1=ProDry, 2=ProScrub, 3=Hi-Temp Wash. Model=KDTM354DSS4, Ser=F73101642 Thanks for the video.

[JC-hhrg]

No codes shown.. at the end of a cycle I have standing water, can double press cancel to manually drain and it drains 100%. Is there something you believe I can replace on my unit?

Thank you for your knowledge. God bless.

[brendaharris]

Hi Nate, I have model KUDL021RBS1. Key pad is in front. I have pressed buttons and all the light light up, but not sure what it should do. There isn’t anything blinking.
The problem I am having is when I close the door and push start the cancel button start blinking. It usually does that if the door is open during a cycle. If I push resume the cancel button just flashes