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3 BIG Miter Saw Station Upgrades! Stop Block, Dust Collection & Zero Clearance
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📦 Materials Used On The Miter Saw Station Upgrades (affiliate):
🛠 Tools Used On The Miter Saw Station Upgrades (affiliate):
📲 FOLLOW CRAFTED WORKSHOP!
SCRIPT :
My miter saw station build was one of the earliest woodworking projects on this channel and was by far the largest project I had untaken at that point. This miter saw station is based on Jay Bates’ popular design and it has served me well over the last four years.
That said, I never really got it set back up properly after I moved into my new shop about a year ago, and, after receiving this beast of a new miter saw from JET a few weeks ago, I decided it was finally time to give the miter saw station a few upgrades.
These upgrades included adding a t-track stop block system for making more accurate, repeatable cuts, adding removable panels to the saw opening to improve dust collection, and finally making a zero clearance insert plate for the new JET miter saw.
I got started by working on getting some t-track added to the work surface, and this was a fairly straightforward process of routing a few grooves to house the t-track pieces. I used an edge guide to ensure I had a nice, straight groove, and I did have to remove the maple trim on this left side before routing.
I snuck up on the depth and got to my final depth after two passes and ended up with a really nice, snug fit with the t-track just below the surface of the plywood.
I repeated the same process on the right half of the miter saw station, although I don’t really see myself using a stop block on this side very frequently, and then I could route another groove for the peel-and-stick measuring tape.
This tape, which I got from Rockler, is actually made of metal and is just thick enough to catch on boards as I slide them across the work surface, and I figured housing the tape in a shallow groove would also help the numbers keep from being worn off over time.
I initially routed the groove for the tape measure right next to the groove for the t-track, but I realized this wasn’t going to work with the stop block design I was planning to use. Because of this, I needed to re-route the groove, this time routing it about an inch and a half from the t-track groove. That extra groove wasn’t a problem, as it was shallow enough where it wouldn’t cause any issues.
Once again, I repeated the process on the right half of the miter saw station and also cleaned up that maple trim, which had seen better days, while I was at it using my low angle jack plane.
When I went to install the t-track, I realized I had actually mistakenly ordered the wrong type of t-track from Rockler, where I get all of my t-track, and had received pieces with no holes pre-drilled. Because of this, I needed to drill holes for my mounting screws and also countersink the holes so the screw heads would sit flush with the surface of the t-track
Of course, I didn’t have a small enough countersink bit on hand, so I just went ahead and got the t-track mounted in the grooves temporarily before coming back to countersink them later.
Since there wasn’t a ton of plywood left for the screws to thread into after routing the grooves for the t-track, I decided to add a little more strength to the connection by adding some CA glue before screwing down the t-track and this made for a rock solid bond.
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