OCBD Oxford Cloth Button Down Shirt Guide

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Oxford shirts are great because they pair well with a summer wardrobe as well as a winter wardrobe. They can be casual, they can be worn with a tie, with a blazer, with a tweed coat, or just on their own without any neckwear. They're also really hard wearing.

First of all, it has a soft button down collar which means there's no interlining, it's just the fabric. The collar forms this beautiful S-curve around your tie knot and that's typical for this collar.

So, what exactly is oxford cloth? Basically, it's a basket weave meaning, you have multiple strands together that are woven like a canvas, like a plain weave. It is simply one warp and one weft thread and it creates a fine, tightly knitted weave.

What other hallmarks does an OCBD have?

First, you want a shirt placket that is separate. Second, you want a chest pocket. A chest pocket is part of the casual heritage of the OCBD and you definitely don't want to skip it. Another feature you want to look for are barrel cuffs.

Other than that, a traditional American oxford cloth button down shirt is cut very wide, lots of room for movement. Now, while that's true on your body,you want to avoid having armhole that are too big. Traditional oxford cloth button down shirts are cut very long in the front and in the back. In the back, you usually have a box pleat which gives you extra space and range of movement.

To understand the background of the OCBD, we have to look at the button down collar. It was originally invented in India and it was meant for polo players to keep their collar down during the exercise. Otherwise, it would flap up in the wind and in player's faces so sometimes, they couldn't see. It was a very practical and functional feature.

From India, it made its way to England where it was seen by a member of the Brooks Brothers family and so in 1896, they brought this collar to the US. It was Brooks Brothers who had the idea to combine this style of collar with an oxford fabric.

Outside of the US, one of the biggest proponents of the oxford cloth button down of Brooks Brothers was Gianni Agnelli. People wanted to emulate his style as an Italian industrialist so it became an iconic garment, even outside the US.

So what are the OCBD dos and don'ts? First of all, do not wear it with formal wear. If you work in an environment where business casual is a dress code, the oxford shirt is the perfect companion.

In a traditional white collar environment, the oxford cloth button down shirt even in plain white is a bit too casual, too soft, and I would go with poplin.

When it gets warm sometimes, people wear OCBDs with short sleeves however, that's not the proper look.

Do wear oxford cloth button down shirts on the weekend, it underlines the casual character, it's a perfect weekend shirt.

Do not wear oxford cloth button down shirts to interviews.

So what should you look for in the OCBD? As I mentioned, soft-roll collar, oxford fabric that is not too wide with the strands. Also, try to get a 100% cotton because it just feels better in your skin. There are lots of polyblends out there because they last longer but if you can afford it, go with a 100% cotton.

Again, skip the cufflinks on the shirt, go with long sleeves, and no short sleeves. Regarding tie knots, you do not have a huge tie gap which calls for a small knot such as the oriental knot.

#ocbdshirt #oxfordclothbuttondownshirt #notsponsored
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Gentleman's Gazette

[ashleyslingers]

i can listen to Sven all day. The knowledge and history of clothing items and the vocabulary used is pleasing on the ear

[canadafree]

7 year old videos like this are like classic men's wear, timeless! I am watching this today because I wore a Brooks Brothers OCBD yesterday. I will forever be looking for the lapel being longer in front than behind. My OCBD is a check patten I don't see on their website, it is white/red and pairs well with blue jeans but also burgundy/brown/green chino family. It is what I wear when I want to look a bit rustic.

[kevinbowers]

I remember going to a Sadie Hawkins dance in high school and the OCBD was the must have shirt for the outfit all the dudes were going for. Here is the rundown on the outfit. Blue OCBD, yellow paisley tie, khaki pleated chinos, brown penny loafers and a navy blazer.

[twofeathers]

I'm so glad to find this channel. It's quickly becoming my favorite. Such excellent information as I am dressing better to further my career in sales. From the responses I've received I know that the impact is translating into dollars and client respect, not to mention repeat business. This channel has helped me immensely. Thanks for filling this need among us that were not taught these things.

[NewEarthBlog]

Thank you, Sven. I'm one of your female followers who enjoy your videos and blog. I'm beginning a self-styled course in apparel design and your fabulous work is a part of that!

[Damnyouyoutub]

Watched a lot of videos before I found this guy. He is the real deal

[stylishoversixty]

I do wear OCB shirts usually without a necktie thanks for another fine video!

[TheDavidAlexander]

I've recently discovered your channel and I'm loving your content - I've always found fashion so confusing because nobody teaches us the rules. And while, I've watched other channels that offer useful advice based on laymen's knowledge, you actually know all the rules and why those rules exist! This is golden information!!

[Tboy]

I know that you like to pay attention to detail, so here is a little tidbit. An acronym spells out a word. Example-S.P.E.C.T.R. E. or NATO. On the other hand an iniitialism is a string of letter pronounced individually. Example-NBC or FBI. So technically OCBD is and initialism. I hope you don't mind me sharpshooting you a bit.Cheers

[reallyisitjustme]

I'm enjoying learning so much from your channel, I may have to order an OCBD Oxford Cloth Button Down Winchester shirt.

[kevinbowers]

Hey Sven...since I saw this video I have rediscovered the awesomeness of the ocbd. I am happy to report that I have found about 6 great ocbd's at a few thrift stores around town. I have made a few visits over the past few months and have been quite pleased with the results. I have found one in white and blue stripes and one in a shade of light red, but most are various shades of blue. They are also quite the bargain, usually between 4 and $6...and some are even well known brands. Thanks for helping me rediscover this classic shirt.

[spookyspoots]

That was great. I have and like these shirts but never really knew where they fit in the broader spectrum of dress styles. Now I do!

[Cheryltwin]

I loved OCBD's back in the day. In the 80's when I was working for an accountant, we weren't as formal as some offices, but the boss liked professional-looking personnel. In the 80's, some women's clothing got menswear touches and of course, both sexes wore ties. I had a lovely collection of these shirts, which I wore for years (they stood up to starching and ironing very well). Unfortunately, these days you are more likely to see even more casual attire. I went to an old accountant friend's office to get my taxes done and all the men were wearing polo shirts. Don't mistake me though. The guy who did my taxes was very thorough and otherwise professional, but I just felt like something was lacking because he wore a polo shirt, jeans and Birkenstocks. When I worked in sales later, I always felt overdressed because I got up early, did my hair and make up and took time with my wardrobe. The guys I worked with not so much. Very sad to see, which is why I always enjoy your videos and how you encourage men to dress with elegance and to respect themselves.

[robertkelly]

Just perfect information I’ve been looking for, it points me clearly in the way my dress desire can be quenched. The Oxford round collar, I have often admired this ‘clean cut look’ and have not availed myself to it. You have inspired me with your videos bringing forth a repressed desire to adopt this dress code. I thank you. Robert Kelly.

[Manuel]

Decided to come back to this video after recieving a few as an early B Day gift. Mine are on the thicker side so I believe they'd be better during Fall and Winter but other than that they are extremely versatile so thank you for the content.

[MrPartoni]

Excellent video. I love the in depth descriptions and history of each item you talk about.

[etilrets]

You are so informative in each of your videos. Really appreciable of your research. Keep us educated. Thank you 🙏

[jrooney]

I think it’s a bit of an overstatement to say that an OCBD is not appropriate for a white collar environment. I watch a lot of CSPAN and have seen several US Senators wear them on the Senate floor or in committee hearings. In particular, a casual search turned up videos of Senators Grassley, Sanders, Crapo, Kennedy and Whitehouse wearing them . While most of them don’t wear them all the time, Senator Whitehouse seems to wear them more often than not. In addition to the Senators, the videos catch members of various Senators wearing OCBDs during committee hearings. I can’t think of a more “white collar” place than Capitol Hill.

I’ve also seen, on numerous occasions, lawyers wear OCBDs to court. Some of those lawyers belonged to prestigious firms where one would expect to see the most rigid adherence to formality. Granted, the OCBD might not be the most worn shirt collar in these venues, but that is different than saying that it is completely out of place.

[stewartbone]

Awesome. Just got two from my tailor and if the fabric is good, they are amazing. I chose Mason fabric, stunning quality. Obviously, I have formal shirts in reserve but this style is a must. As statedd in the video, blue is lovely.

[noordamnick]

This video was exactly what I was looking for, I was wondering what tie-knot to choose with my OCBD. Thank you very much and keep up the great work.