510-Pyro with semi-stand development explained

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In this video I demonstrate and discuss a full semi-stand development with 510-Pyro including:
- The semi-stand technique itself
- Water stop baths, how and why
- Alkaline fixing for the recommended length of time, no longer, and the easiest way of telling when to finish fixing
- Ilford wash technique
- How to stop most water marks on your negatives when dry

We then examine the negatives together to see why semi-stand development is so advantageous.

Thanks for watching this video and please 'like' and 'subscribe' to see more tricks and tips in the darkroom and other film loveliness..

John Finch
Pictorial Planet
Scotland

[jdefritter]

Well done, Mr. Finch! Seeing every step of the process explained in real time is a great service to newcomers, and your point about relaxing and enjoying the process is sage advice.

[letmebereal]

Your doing film photography a great service. Thanks.

[steveweston]

Thank you John. I had not heard of 510 until earlier this morning. I was doing a search for info on Pyrocat HD which led me to you. I will be adding this dev to my Pyro list to try in the future. Look forward to seeing some more content.

[brianrowland]

Pyro used to have a reputation for uneven development and fog. On top of this poor keeping qualities which means mix fresh for each session.
But it seems the new Pyro 510 formula is a breakthrough enabling the traditional frustrations and limitations of older pyro formulae to be resolved.
After years of regular tank agitation when using pyro in tanks, stand development seems counter intuitive.
But clearly it works and it works very well!

Thanks for another inspiring video!

[redtreephotography]

You just convinced me to make 510-Pyro. I am thoroughly enjoying your videos.

[padesig]

Great video, thank you!! I love this semi-stand development with 510-pyro; I used this one only in standard diluition suggested at the time by Jay DeFehr.

[namesurename-fotografiaana]

Just prepared 510 - I will need to make several films to get familiar with. 1st went OK. Many thanks .

[rolandofuret]

Hello John, just to thank you an d say that I'm impressed with the results, absolute stunning. Cheers mate.😉❤

[keithhaithwaite]

You had me going there for a minute John, I had a feeling something wasn't quite right, then I spotted it. At the start of the video the image has been flipped so that you shirt fastens the wrong way and your wedding band(?) is on your right hand. Another great video.

[photozen]

Amazing…..snow is the most difficult to capture correct, great job on the metering of the photo and obviously on the developing….please a word on how you metered the grass/snow scene?

[michaeltaylor]

Superb John. Should also work beautifully with Dry Plates / tray dev ;)

[martinhensonphotography]

You mention on your website that diluting 510 pyro 1-200 and using a semi stand method to end at 25 mins at 20c, does this apply to most popular black and white films and in your opinion given good exposure, what results would we expect

[Dstonephoto]

6 months ago I ordered Pyrocat HD in liquid form. I’ve been hesitant to try it due to worries about safety. Every time I think I’ve got all the proper safety equipment for it, goggles, latex gloves, storage bottles, I read another forum piece which puts me on the edge. The latest being that I should use nitrile gloves, instead of latex, in order to prevent the chemicals from going through the latex. Could you give a brief overview on the necessary precautions one should take, and where to draw the line on. Using these various pyro developers? I’m probably overthinking this but on the off chance that I’m wrong… beautiful video!

[normusarms]

I have used Ilford Hypam rapid fix with pyro developers and I have not seen any reduction in the amount of stain. Most of the staining takes part during development and pyro hardens the surface of the negative. It is the amount of acid in the stop that reduces stain, you have avoided this by using water as a stop. If you wish to make up an alkaline fix try,
Sod. Thiosulphate 57-60% solution 800ml
Sod. Sulphite (anhy) 20g
Sod. Metaborate 15g
Water up to 1ltr.
Fotospeed may still do FX40 if you ask them nicely, they do not seem to distribute it to their agents. The last time I got some was from Morco Photographic.
C41 fix is also just about neutral ph.
T max films have a purple tinge this is a washing issue not fixing, use your fixing by inspection routine (tmax films do take a little longer than conventional films) wash the film then wash it for 2 mins in a solution of 1tsp sod. Sulphite in 1ltr of water, then wash again.

[jllanesphoto]

Dear Mr. Finch, I have been using Ilford FP4 and 510 Pyro for a while now using the semi-stand development with great results. Today I shot a roll of Delta 100, used the exact same method, and the negatives were so under developed that I could barely see anything. Wondering if you have experienced this or any of your viewers. Thank in advance. Never miss your videos. You are a wealth of knowledge. Stay safe my friend.



Reply

[alvaroalp]

Amazing stuff right there. Beautiful shots. Loving the semi stand development, it really feels better to not have to rush on the chems. Is there a chart or some way to calculate times for this Pyro and semi stand for different film stocks?
Again, thanks a lot for the info you put in here!

[thevalleyofdisappointment]

Is the staining effect with 510 pyro protective enough of the highlights for you to not ned to run tests to ensure proper developing times? Perhaps its more a function of the stand development and water stop bath too thats allowing such a relaxed process? Great content as always btw and props for the website!

[mesires]

Great video. Even though I am quite experienced the fix hack (checking the clearing of the negative with open tank) was really interesting. Few questions: you do not recommend presoak - it is quite discussed topic. Is there any reason why not to presoak while developing with 510-pyro? Did you ever encounter bromide drag with semi-stand or stand development? I do sometime see it with Diafine. As mentioned in my comment to your previous video, I am trying to choose pyrocatechin (Obsidian Aqua) or pyrogallol (510-pyro) developer and stick with the one I choose. I will still use some other developers for specific reasons (Diafine with Tri-X pushed to 1250, or Double-X @ 640, Rodinal to have some grain when needed).

[rolandofuret]

Great video John. Why the PMK does't be used in stand/semi-stand as well? Thanks

[grampadoug]

Excellent presentation. Not usually a big fan of stand/semi-stand development, perhaps I should give it another go after seeing your outstanding results. How do you feel about a pre rinse? It’s something I have always done, whether it makes a difference I do not know, I just do it. Can it hurt?
Love the bagpipe background music!
Thanks.