A NEW film developer for me? 510 PYRO. WOW!

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ABOUT THIS VIDEO

Much thanks to James Lane of Zone Imaging Lab for sending the 510 PYRO.

Thanks to Intrepid Cameras for sending the Enlarger.

Martin Henson Youtube Channel

Doing Film Things Youtube Channel (Ribsy)

EQUIPMENT USED

CAMERA - Mamiya RZ / Olympus OM20
FILM - ARISTA EDU 200 (FOMA 200) & Ilford FP4
DEVELOPER - Errm.... 510 PYRO
STOP & FIX - Fotospeed
ENLARGER - DURST M605
PAPER - Ilford MG Deluxe
DEVELOPER - Ilford MG
STOP & FIX - FOTOSPEED
PRODUCTION GEAR
CANON 6D, GOPRO 7 BLACK, TASCAM DR10L MIC, SENHEISSER SHOTGUN MIC,
NEEWER LED PANELS, GVM COLOUR PANELS,
Editing - FCP, PHOTOSHOP, LIGHTROOM

ABOUT MY VIDEOS

If my videos inspire, create ideas and help others in film photography and darkroom work then it's worth making them.
I always welcome comments that are useful towards the video subject that will help others understand the process within.
Keep shooting and thanks for watching.

MUSIC CREDITING
YouTube Studio Music

[jameslane]

Great video Roger! Very glad you liked the developer and the results! Each small bottle will develop 30+ 35mm rolls!

Yeah, 510 Pyro gives great prints and scans as well as suitable for alternative printing processes using UV light!

One more thing, the 510 Pyro proportional staining also helps with the highlights in prints through acting like a yellow (low contrast) filter just for the highlights and affecting the midtones a tad and leaves the shadows alone so when you use a filter (let's say grade 3.5), you get an automatic split grade effect

[ribsy]

Watching this while developing my first roll in pyro. First roll is looking pretty cool - thanks for the dev! 🤟🏽

[wattn-dampf]

Thank you for this! I buy, i test it, yesterday (night ;-) )! IT IS MY NEW DEVELOPER! NO more search!💥👍

[iainmc]

Nothing to do with this vlog but thank you for putting me on to Peter Elgar, I've laughed and cried my way through his whole back-catalogue in the last couple of weeks. He's got to be the most loved photographer on You Tube. Long may he continue.

[WhosPhotoTube]

Chatted to the pyro guys at the photo show last week, interesting setup, looks good stuff.

[ianhand]

I recommend scanning your negatives with the emulsion side up. The increased detail is quite noticeable.

[janhenkins]

Wahaha, what a thing! "Poncing a Pink Poodle Past a Pub" - defo a bucket list item, if only to see people's faces! Excellent video mate!

[JohnTomasella]

Actually HC-110 is concentrate but it is not thick like that. I have used it to stand develope with good results. 1+120 for 1 hour 1 minute inversion at the beginning and let it sit for the rest of the time. The reasoning of no more inversions is the developer will exhaust its self on the highlights but continue to develope the shadows, thus preserving the highlights.

[jeniharney]

I've used pyro on one roll of film so far, but not taken the pictures into the darkroom yet. The scans looked good, even if I wasn't keen on the pictures!!

[georgeosier]

my usual developer is Rodinal or D-23 ... just ordered some 510 pyro ... nice look and super fine grain which I like ... thanks !!!!

[SilntObsvr]

I've never used any pyro developer, but I have used original Caffenol (no ascorbate) which also produces stain. The general effect is that the imagewise stain, being brownish, tends to block blue light, which reduces contrast in the highlights -- which the printer usually compensates by increasing overall contrast, so the effect is more contrast in shadows and mid-tones, and slightly less in highlights. When printing on graded paper, the stain simply acts as extra density, raising the overall contrast, and because it also blocks UV, staining developers can produce negatives that print as low to mid contrast with multigrade paper, but have the contrast in UV for the same negative to make good alt-process prints (cyanotype, Van Dyke Brown, salted paper, platinum/palladium, etc.) -- common non-staining developers like Xtol, Rodinal, or ID-11 usually require different development levels for enlarging vs. alt-process printing.

There are certain kinds of scenes that are greatly enhanced by staining developers like Caffenol (without ascorbate) or pyro -- because the stain also tends to partially obscure grain. It can make fog look much more "fluid" instead of the grainy appearance it often has in non-staining developers. Other examples of very subtle gradations over large areas (sky going from horizon to high angles above the horizon, for instance) are similar enhanced by this effect.

Might be interesting to note that Kodak's very first developer, D-1, was a pyrogallol formula -- what's now called ABC Pyro (because it has three solutions -- A, B, and C -- that are combined immediately before use).

[largophoto]

Love this ..even the dogs looked bored..I would have had you on my photo team as a photog...mind you 30 years ago

[anonharingenamn]

Gosh, you put SO much work into your videos. I'm always impressed!

[AlexLuyckxPhoto]

Well that settles it, I have to get my hands on some 510 Pyro to try out. I mainly run with Pyrocat-HD, so trying out another Pyro developer will be fun!

[The_LaughingHyena]

Pyro developer is amazing. 510 is great for stand development!

[chriscard]

I did a test, compared HC-110 old recipe by Adox (syrup one) and 510-Pyro. Pyro wins: beautiful shadow tones, great sharpness

[laurie_j_clark]

Love your channel Roger. You explain things in a way anyone can understand, I'm learning so much from your content. Keep it up. Will be purchasing some Pyro soon.

[flavioserci]

I used for years the Pyro ABC by Weston in large format photography. I tried the same formula in the 120 format.. but it is very staining developer and it does larger grain, so It is perfect for contact printing, but on the enlarger and modern paper it is difficult to print this negatives. It is necessary to expose +1 stop. I prefer the D76 in stock solution. It is a wonderful multipurpose developer. I think better than the Rodinal.

[jonathanhotopf]

Just got some 510 Pyro from James Lane at the photography show, he mentioned you there. Looking forward to trying it out

[terjemyller]

The reason for that left bottom area (and the tree trunks) in the second print being so dark, is your film development method. One inversion per 10min (after the initial shake) is far to little. The developer fatigues very fast in the underexposed parts of the negative, so a flush of fresh developer will be needed to get tonality there. I’d go for one inversion per 2min. There’s no risk of burning out the highlights by adding a few shakes, as pyro controls these really well. Fun to see you using pyro. I did it for my medium format work in the good ol’ days.