How to Plasterboard a Steel Beam | The Easiest Method Out There!

Today i will be showing you how to plasterboard an RSJ quickly and easily. Fixing plasterboard to an RSJ is very easy if you follow this simple trick and it helps keep the steel beam narrow. I will be showing you the tips and tricks that make the job easy! If you like the content leave a like and please subscribe for more content like this as I've got a lot more to come and there will be something that will help you out.

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[jonno]

Couldn't get along with an impact driver, ended up paying a few quid for a drywall screw drill bit and it made screwing a mindless task. I like videos like this, common problems that people will come up a cropper at some point. Great vid your videos have really helped me over the years, keep them coming

[kevinsalcombe]

As a drywall fixer you explained everything perfect for anybody attempting this themselves. On site we wouldn't get away with using the adhesive on the bottom face, we would have to use some mf6 or angle on the adjoining slabs and box around the beam. Great video as always.

[AccountantDoesDIY]

Great video mate and very easy to follow and understand. The only thing I’d add is to be careful with impact drivers and drywall screws - I found it very easy to go straight through the plasterboard. Instead I used my combi drill on gear 6 or 7. This seemed to be the right gear that the clutch would release just as the screw got about 1mm depressing the paper on the plasterboard. One gear lower and the screw head would sit too proud, one gear higher and the screw chewed into too much plasterboard.

[davepangolin]

It is surprisingly easy to drill thru an rsj.
4mm pilot then a 6mm, , trick is a spray of cutting fluid.
When you have the knack it is a lot less annoying and much quicker and accurate than banging those noggings in.

[mrgipps]

Li'l tip. When you need to cut multiple rips of plaster board to exacting measurements. eg; beam encasements. All measurements need to come from a good edge, preferably factory edge. Take measurements both sides (191) & underside of the beam. (100) let's say you need 3 rips of 191mm. Mark the face of board 191mm, 382mm, 573mm then 673mm & 773mm for 2 100mm rips. Then cut board. Every cut will be mm perfect.

[MalcolmJames-sgzg]

Thanks for the video, hope you are settling in your new home, there's always a lot to do, It never stops, so hope theres a lot more videos to come 🙂

[timbobau]

Love your work!
If you are taking requests; I would love to see how you did the demo and installed the beam you just covered up.

[jasonmcandrew]

Thanks for this well timed video, I’ve got this to do in the next month or so. 👍🏻

[Mee]

And to comply with building regs for steel to be covered with at least 30 mins fire protection, don't forget to use fireline plasterboard, or two layers of standard plasterboard with brickwork/overlapping joints.

[williamsl]

why oh why oh why have I never thought about when cutting with a blade, that the blade should be the side your length of wood needs to be at 🤣 makes so much more sense now why when I was panelling one or two boards were just marginally off.

Little hints like this is why I love your videos

[EdithWeston]

Great to see the transformation, looking forward to the whole house! well done, subbed to your Insta 💯

[bobkiff]

I don't think i'll have need for this particular tip but I found myself watching it anyway, good work!

I'm quite new to DIY myself and this old house of mine is needing a whole lot of work. I'm not sure if it's something you have the need to do, nor do I know if it's within your remit but I have some wardrobes which just fit in some alcoves and want the to look a bit more built in, any further tips on that would be superb!

[lukasg]

Loving watching this channel you make diy fun

[markmcgrath]

good video ! i like to see realworld repairs like you have been doing !

[joeclifford]

Great work. Simple and easy explanation

[soulrider]

Great video and has helped but I have two steels to timber up and one is recessed shallower than the wall. Assuming it’s fine to have the batton coming out further so it’s flush with the wall? Pitched roof so space above needs to be dot and dab’ed so going to double up on the fire board there

[eddiebest]

Exactly what I was looking for thanks for posting 👍

[chrisdavis]

My top tip is I would have just squirted some grip foam behind the noggins to prevent any movement - always spray a fine mist of water before hand as this helps with adhesion 👍

[DaveSomething]

this is EXACTLY what I was looking for! thanks, mate! it's what I was going to do but wasn't quite sure how to go about it.

[johnbower]

Good work, but before knocking those vertical pieces of wood into the steel beam I would have applied adhesive to each end of the wood, the end grain of the wood would carry the adhesive in as the wood was knocked into place.