Ender 3 Micro Swiss all metal hot end

If you want to print beyond the Ender 3’s limit of 255 degrees C, you will need to switch to an all metal hot end, like this one from Micro Swiss. It is machined from aluminium and titanium, and installs as a straight swap for your 3D printer.

Requested by one of my Patrons, in this video I explain what an all metal hot end is, compare it to the standard hot end, show you how to install the all metal hot end and then make some print quality comparisons. I also outline why you might need such a modification.

PID autotune and saving is also covered. Links to Marlin reference below.

As noted in the video, you really only need this upgrade if you are planning on printing higher temperature filaments. The quality is superior to the standard hot end, but the price might be hard to justify for this reason alone.

Capricorn Tubing (plenty of spares of each of these after fitting to the printer):

Purchase the Ender 3 from these links:

Take a look around and if you like what you see, please subscribe.

#3dprinting #ender3 #microswiss

[kevfquinn]

A neat thing on M303 is the "U" option - do "M303 S200 U1" and at the end of the PID tuning, it sets them active for you, no need to type the numbers back in, just M500 to save. Handy!

[joeeverhart]

When it comes to just about any 3d printing concerns you have a very easy to follow yet rich walkthrough! Definitely the best 3d printing channel for those cutting their teeth at this to experts looking to save time in configuring and fine-tuning their machines. Thank you for doing what you do.

[dkeele]

Another great video Michael. A potential follow-up video that I'm sure would get a lot of views is to test and compare all metal hot end clones of the Microswiss to see how they compare to the authentic one. I see a ton of discussion in groups about the clones.

[Horendus]

Great video. One thing to mention is a Swiss All Metal is essential if you plan to do production/heavy use on the ender3 (any printer) I run swiss micros on all my print farm printers (and bondtech extruders) as the PTFE does not stand the test of time where as a correctly installed all metal will require much less maintenance over time.

[glock]

I have the Tevo Tornado, same model as you with the not so attractive gold trim. I upgraded to the Micro Swiss and absolutely love it, I have had no issues whatsoever with it, and when I got it, the heater block was missing, I called the company, a real person answered and within 24 hours I had a replacement part.

[NEOGEOJunkie]

I believe the Swiss site also mentioned raising your default temp as well, I recently fitted the micro and usually print PLA at 200c, but I have found 218c works a lot better, I'm also using the bullseye cooler. Great vid though as always. 👍

[kevincanfly]

Great info!! I swapped to the Swiss and left my pid’s default. So far I’ve had excellent results!! I’ll look into tuning my pid’s, keep up the good work.

[grantlesueur]

Yup I upgraded to this device a while ago mostly because I’ve standardized in printing PETG but also want to expand to other material.

[independentmind]

Man, thank you for all the info and not just sending everyone out to get a new hot end. Turns out I don't need one at all and I'm ok with the one that comes with my Ender 3. I do wish you had a Discord channel running for your patrons, I would be all over that! I would recommend it, let your subs discuss among themselves, etc. Think about it!

[mspringett]

I just installed the micro Swiss hotend on my Tevo tornado and it is working flawlessly! I don't know exactly what was on it to begin with but it kept clogging it was giving me all sorts of problems. I made the switch and it's working like a dream!

[Johnn_T]

Thanks for another honest and straight up review Michael-I’ve actually bought one of these but am yet to fit it - after watching this I doubt now I will fit it unless I start to have issues with the stock hot end. Cheers

[echobeefpv]

May do this mod in the future, I've done quite a few of the mods you have shown, including the firmware update, etc. Great videos for a beginner like myself !!

[WhereNerdyisCool]

Great video and I think it's great you suggest the PID Autotune after the install. I've seen a lot of Facebook group posts where people did this upgrade and had some issues. Many resolved themselves after the PID autotune was run. Keep up the good work!

[revtmyers]

Guess that's going to be my next upgrade on the CR10. Thanks for the information.

[neurokinetikES]

I had one of these on my Ender 3 Pro. It sort of worked, but I was always fighting underextrusion and getting clogs with it, even after PID tuning, and adjusting retraction and temperature settings. I noticed when feeding filament that there seemed to be an excessive amount of friction in the system. In troubleshooting where I was getting that friction, I narrowed it down to the heat sink. As it turns out, the inside of my heat sink is not machined very well, and has noticeable roughness from the drilling process. Kind of like I often see on cheap nozzles.

[nvertedReality]

Just got it for my CR10 S5. Really like it. Way better than the stock extruder pushing through a 20+ inch bowden tube.

[broderp]

Thank you for this video. That's a lot of work if your not doing any high temp filament. It's also above the level of any novice as I had no clue as to what any of the software gcode stuff was that you flew threw. So, since there is no performance gain, I will stick with stock. You saved this noob a lot of money and time.

[vernonleeper]

Michael, very good job explaining this. I'm very mew to this community, I have a ender 3 pro and have been following you and Chep to help with my printings.
Thanks for tips .

[nielsjohnson-laird]

Thanks for another great video. I've been considering switching to an all metal hot-end so I can print Nylon/Carbon Fiber filament.

[spikekent]

Great instructions Michael. My experiences installing the Micro Swiss hotend on the CR-10s were that same as yours, the upgrade was very easy indeed, I too had to raise the BL Touch 2mm by removing the spacers (nuts). Regarding the PID settings, I add them to the start gcode in S3D, it makes it easier to change the setting for different filaments, although I currently use PLA for the most part, I will be using PETG etc too after the Keenovo heatbed upgrade is done. I may well upgrade the cooling duct and fans at some point to because well, why not :-)