Micros Swiss All Metal Hotend

This video address concerns about the quality and reliability of the Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend. Specifically, it tests the ability of this high-temperature hot end to print regular PLA at regular temperatures. When you read the comments about the MicroSwiss Hotend some users comment that it tends to jam when using low-temperature filament such as PLA and that stringing is an issue with these filaments. I have evaluated both of these potential issues and report on my results.

While I tested the Micro Swiss Hotend on my Creality Ender 5 I believe my results will hold across the Creality line of printers. The test prints were sliced with Cura and printed in Hatchbox PLA and Matterhacker Build PLA.

The Ender 5 Upgrades on the printer used for these tests include a SeeMeCNC EZR Struder Extruder Kit and a Capricorn Bowden tube.

After watching the video please feel free to comment. All comments about this topic are welcome. Let's continue to learn together.

Irv
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[ISFRedSandman]

I am pretty experienced with 3d printers, i started in 2013 and i am currently developing my own printer from scratch. The observations you made because of the heat creeping are correct, thumbs up! hint: when assembling any hot end, tighten the nozzle at max finger force against the heatbreak, heat it to 250c +- and then tight it with a wrench.

[frogmandave]

Another great video Doc! I had a problem with jamming on my Micro Swiss hot end when a print would fail during the middle of the night and I had to kill the power to the printer with my wifi switch. In those conditions with no cool down the filament would jam way beyond just heating up the heat block at a high temperature and pulling it out. I would have to take it a part to get everything sorted out. My printer is in my store and I monitor it at night with a simple Wyze cam. Other than those conditions I never had issues. But for that reason I went away from the Micro Swiss for awhile.


A couple of months ago I had a problem with my stock hot end and switched back to the Micro Swiss as that was my only option to print and not wait on parts. One of the things you did not mention in your video is how much easier it is to change nozzles on the Micro Swiss. Because the nozzle tightens up against the titanium heat tube, you do not have to worry about the bowden tube being pushed tight against the nozzle. It really is an easier procedure to change nozzles in the Micro. I have altered my end of print G code to retract the filament 50 mm so there is never a problem with jammed filament after cool down. Even if it is several hours. Of course I have been doing this with the stock hot end as well. I just remember to run the filament back down to the hot end before I start a print. Most of the time I am changing filament as well so it is not a problem. Plus I have changed my waste print at the start of every print to run the full length of the bed with 4 passes. I have found that by doing this and usually printing a skirt, the filament is flowing plenty well when the actual print starts.


Again, great video! Keep them coming.

[Ureallydontknow]

I really enjoy your content and your positive attitude. we are all lucky to have people like you on the platform.

[timaucoin]

Great video (as are all of your videos). I ordered the Micro-Swiss for my CR-10S Pro, and I think I'll upgrade all my printers to this. When I read reviews (on this and other products), I find that the negative reviews are folks who either don't understand, they don't follow instructions, or they don't take the time to LEARN why something is the way it is. Being new to 3D printing in the last 8 weeks, the biggest lesson I've learned is that 3D printing takes PATIENCE, some basic understanding of the process and some common sense. Also, pay attention to who you are taking advice from. Do they really know what they are talking about, or are they simply after likes and views. I sensed from the first time I watched one of your videos, DrVax, that you genuinely care about helping people and your advice is very sound! Thank you so much.

[DavidBealeakaFKD]

been pondering spending $80 to upgrade to a Swiss Metal Hot End kit for my CR6SE - have been having some pla blockage issues - but based on what I see here would likely be not much different. I did get my hot end and cooling block cleaned out and running better. An upgrade to direct drive with metal hot end, and community firmware, and now I see bigger cooling fan is also an option, ... these things all combined might be worthwhile - but for now, I continue to run stock and keep learning. Thanks for your Youtubes - you have been one of my go to teachers.

[brianjenkins]

Just found this channel, while looking up the micro Swiss hot end I just brought. Great video !

[cueball]

I recently got my Ender 3 v2 going again after a 4-year hiatus. After 2 days of tinkering, I am now printing some very nice pieces using the MicroSwiss hotend, which I had upgraded back in 2020 prior to parking the machine. Everything you point out was what I experienced through trial and error. I'm so happy that I decided to give the Ender 3 v2 another chance.

The only issue I'm running into is some adhesion trouble right at the 1cm height of each print. Before and after this point, the print quality is awesome! I've checked the belts, tightened everything proper, so I'm thinking it's the Z-axis. I did uograde to a dual motor setup last week. I have a set of Oldham couplers on the way, which I believe will help correct any imperfections in the threaded rods. I'm getting great adhesion to the smooth glass side of the stock plate, so my z-offset is dialed in correctly. I'm also using a BLTouch with the latest Professional build of Marlin. The bed is leveled perfectly! I'm running the stock, Bowden extruder set-up. Bed temp is at 60⁰C and hotend at 206⁰C.

Given all I've done so far, are there any other things I should investigate that could be the culprit to these 2 or 3 lines not adhering correctly at around the 1cm height? Again, I'm leaning towards an issue with the z-axis, but I know you're very well-versed with the Ender series and its potential issues.

[Menuta]

I have a micro swiss hotend on a Wanhao i3 v2.0, It works brilliantly. I have one on an Ender 3 with a swiss all metal, and it was jamming in the heat break constantly, even higher temps did not unjam the PLA. Switched to an E3D all metal clone, PLA prints OK but the PLA sticks in the heatbreak and stops other filaments from printing correctly, heating did not fix it. I have also made sure the transition zones are gap free. I have temporarily switched to a heatbreak with PTFE until I can have another go at fixing it. I have also tried a filament oiler, small amount of oil did not seem to make much difference. Too much oil and the PLA became extremely brittle. For anyone with troubles make one change at time so you can isolate the problem, yes this takes time but it is worth it. Anyway DrVax great videos.

[dinosoarskill]

This is good information Dr.
I am planning on doing this upgrade soon, will let you know how it works for me!
I have done nearly every upgrade I can do my Ender; Dual Z, Direct Drive, Glass bed, pei sheet, hero me cooling with 5015 blower fans, 32 bit controller board, linear rails... this is probably one of the last major upgrades ill do to this Ender

[yonutz]

Generally, i've drawn the conclusion from people complaining of all metal hotends (E3D V6, Micro Swiss ...) that they have issues because of the all-metal heatbreak. If using a metal heatbreak lined with PTFE tubing all those issues go away. For E3D V6 you have this option (from Chinese retailers) but for Microswiss i have not found it yet. This info helped me and solved most of my issues, maybe it will help some of your viewers as well. All of this provided there is a snug fit between all necessary components.

[SUB.Trauma]

You are a gem in the 3D printing community. THANKS HOMIE

[roccoreid]

You're very pleasant to listen to. Many instructional videos on Youtube get frustrating. And for many, I wish they would just get to the point. With you, we get the best of both worlds. You're great at staying focused on topic, AND even if you were to stray some, it wouldn't be the slightest problem, because it's like sitting with a great friend and just enjoying the conversation. Glad you're here, and thank you for all your effort that you put into helping others.

[zk_]

Well, your suggestion about clearing the clog worked. I was quite surprised. I heated the hotend up by 15 degrees hotter than I normally print PLA, pushed it down and then pulled it back out. I could not get the filament to come out before. Then I removed the nozzle and used the noclogger tool I bought off of Amazon to clear the rest of the clog. It took considerable amount of force to so, but at least it is mostly clear now. Ever since I added the Microswiss all metal hotend and direct drive I get a clog when going from PETG to PLA. I think I am going to just stick with PETG from now on.

[DennisMurphey]

I added the Micro Swiss Hot end to my 10S Pro i had lots of trouble printing NylonX from Matter Hackers, so i switched to PETG-CF and had better results. Finally i ran out of PETG-CF and had to go back to NylonX. At one time I had a massive leak and had filament running out and melting all over the hot end. I did a tear down and clean and reassembly, it worked one time. Then the next time jam! Tear down got the plug out but once back together another Jam, this time i had to figure out the issue and get it right. I super cleaned everything. I found filament residue in the corners of the both threaded ends that prevented full insert into the heater block and likely made the gap between the top parts. I talked to Micro Swiss the threaded ends are 5 mm and 5.5 mm with .001=.002 gap at the nozzle base when fully torqued. After cleaning the joints I also chamfered the edges of the each threaded end of the Hot Block slightly. to allow for any filament i could not get out. the mating surfaces were bit charred with filament residue. So i polished the ends with 1, 000 grit sand paper. I ended up with a tight coupling and .001 clearance in the nozzle. I did a test fir using black maker on the mating surfaces and when i removed then the marker was rubbed off equally around the surfaces. When i reassembled the parts i also used a drill bit down the filament channel thru the hot block and into the nozzle as a guide to ensure square and aligned parts during reassembly. After 2 days of printing NylonX for my Christmas Train Parts i have not had a jam, a leak or any filament handing issue. However, i had a lot of new stringing. I continue to address that issue and some layer separation that is likely speed and layer height issue. So far so good. I am saving to go to a direct feed Micro Swiss Kit soon. Good report and excellent suggestions.

[amywhitaker]

Just found you and wow, such great content by someone who readily admits things that they don’t know! New subscriber!

[djsloanau]

I just installed the Micro Swiss all metal hot end on my new CR-10 S5, mainly to print in PETG. The testing starts tomorrow. I will probably need to move to their direct drive unit, but nit until I have to print flexible material. Great informative video.

[masters]

I sure enjoy your instructive videos, DrVax. You present the information very clearly and it sure helps people sort out problems. I've recommended your channel to several friends new to 3D printing.

[GeorgeLecakes]

Upgraded to the hotend and direct drive combo on an Ender 3 Pro. As someone who spent a few days going through all kinds of problems, if people have issues with the hotend it is due to user error and not understanding how to calibration their printer to work with the new hotend. Once you spend a few hours tweaking things, there is no difference in the hotend in quality. The only gains you make are that you can starting printing with materials that start where the stock Creality hotend maxes out.

[Stashmanfpv]

I just received my micro Swiss direct drive and hotend system, but after reading many many reviews I'm now slightly hesitant too install, as I'm very new to the Hobby and I've heard many stories about having problems getting the nozzle centered in the middle of the bed and also about the stainless steel nozzle breaking off in the hot end and also having clogging issues...
Is there anywhere where I can find some solutions to these problems? I purchased this to be able to print different filaments such as TPU and wood PLA, etc. The other reason I'm hesitant to install, besides the issues I mentioned above, is that my stock E3P has printed exceptionally well out of the box and I don't want to foul it up... I just need the option of printing other filaments.

Thanks folks and I'm appreciative of any help towards addressing my questions above.
Best! ✌🏼

[joshnigh]

This video was super helpful when I was making the desicision to purchase the mirco swiss and now again when I am starting to print pla with it. Thank you!