Getting My A$$ Kicked By an 86 Mustang (Part 2)

This is the final fix for this EEC-IV Mustang. Super difficult situation when you find yourself with not one, but four bad, brand new parts. Hope you learned something from this series and thanks for watching!

ScannerDanner Tools:

On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!

Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.

[louiskogok]

Paul your tenacity is what makes your videos so appealing to me. I'm on a quest to watch all your utube videos. Soon, the premier channel follows for me. WHY? Because in the work-a-day world of changing tires and doing brake jobs and oil changes and all those other tasks we do as techs, many of us hunger to be really good at diagnostics, but don't get enough opportunities. I have learned so much from all your videos. I look forward to the new ones coming out and re-watch older ones often. You drill the principles you teach into peoples minds and that is a good test light, the 5 volt ref, tach movement, cranking sound, prove your ground, idle fuel trims/possible vacuum leaks and on and on. A wealth of knowledge and skill, derived from a whole lot of hard work, over many years, coupled with a great desire to teach and share it all, must Always be celebrated. Oh, wait, it is. 323k subscribers hit that button for a reason. Paul, thank you for doing what you do. It has helped me achieve a better understanding about a subject I find fascinating.

[kevin_nagle]

Coming from someone who has been playing with Foxbody Mustangs since the late 90s I can tell you I realized early on that any parts store module was junk. We even had trouble with the MSD, Accel & other aftermarket ignition companies modules.
The only module that I can say always worked everytime was the Motorcraft module.
Although now we are using aftermarket EFI with crank triggers, cam sync's & MSD dual sync distributors, every so often we have an original or modified Fox still using the factory EECIV, I'm lucky enough to have Down's Ford close by & they still have stock of the Motorcrafts modules.
This was an excellent series, thank you for still doing the older stuff including the Foxbody & other EEC-IV stuff because I still work on that stuff in 2022!

[wired]

The timing of crossing out “don’t” was priceless, great video

[cannbudo]

Thank you for showing the struggle so many of us go through.

[dznuttzonyachin]

what i appreciate the most is the honesty in the videos !!

this is true real world scenarios and wasnt edited to make Paul look like a Superhero !!

Paul is a genius and anyone who says they would have done better is a liar.


imagine getting screwed on multiple parts and questioning yourself and tactics !!

thats exactly what should happen and again I truly appreciate your honesty in the videos !!

some folks may have thought it would make you look bad but wow look at the results !! it all worked itself out and you did exactly what id want my mechanic to do !!



thanks guys !! you earned the number one spot for that !!

absolutely the best in the game !!!

✊😎

[charleskennedy]

I have run into more bad parts in the last 5 years than I have the previous 25 years as a mechanic. I have resorted to buy more oem electronic parts than ever before. Thank you for not sugar coating anything and showing real world issues!

[nm-qthb]

The 5.0 roller camshaft was made from a steel core. The early flat tappet camshaft were made from a cast iron core. Two different distributor gear are needed.

[brian]

With all do respect, coming from a weekend warrior I’m happy to see the pros struggle. You guys did a killer job!

[jdc]

Caleb; I hope your daughter is doing better. Been thinking about her since your dad mentioned the situation. She is in my prayers.

[Ulrich_Wolf]

Small shop owner checking in here. You bring up that the parts store should pay for lost time. I agree, and I have 3 different scenarios to share.

1. My personal 2002 Ford Mustang GT. PCM went. No problem, got a Cardone reman, car starts up, we figured it was fine. 30 days later, the car intermittently would crank no start, setting U codes and flashing the Theft light. After checking CCRM, powers, grounds, doing a pinpoint test on the SCP network, everything passed. So, we called a PCM. Warrantied it out. 30 days later, the replacement does the same thing. Same symptoms, same 2 hours of diag and pinpoint tests, same results. Warranty a PCM. Third PCM - runs 30 days. SAME symptoms. This time, I tried something off the wall. Bought a used OEM PCM from Ebay, flashed it, programmed keys, and the car has run fine for 3 months now and never missed a beat.

2. 2013 Chevrolet Cruze 1.8L. Came in, had a ripped PCV diaphragm, needed a valve cover. Installed a parts store valve cover, the car didn't make it home to my customer's house! The PCV in that one let go so violently that the intake filled with engine oil. I had to pull the intake, completely clean it out, and then replace the valve cover again. This time, a GM part went on. No more trouble since!

3. 2010 GMC Yukon Denali. Reduced Engine power concern. Diagnosed a bad TPS. Put a TPS on it, it lived 24 hours. Got it back, tested, sure enough, bad part. Got a warranty replacement, installed it, and it was worse than the bad one! Went to a different vendor, and that one has been working well.

Between the Mustang, the Cruze, and the Denali, that was probably 20 hours combined of diagnostic and repair time. Who didn't get paid for that? This guy.

[martinrubenstein]

Paul, the good thing is that you didn’t have any accidents or close calls with that drive belt. Don’t you ever feel like putting all your kit on ebay and becoming a Benedictine monk? This is a gem of a video because it means that when any of us start to get swallowed up by a similar black hole, at least we won’t feel quite so bad knowing that it happens to the best of them.

[mikesabin]

You’re not incompetent, i work in a shop mon-Friday and we fix everything that comes in, but damn if its a fight every car now… constantly feel inadequate even though we get it in the end… the struggle is real

[luigigonzalez]

Finally! Been waiting for it thanks Danner family 👪,
hope the little baby is feeling better

[Harrison_Auto]

I know this job sucked for you but its so good to see you struggle like I do. Sometimes its easy to get the idea you don't get stuck and to be as good as you are you have to not get it wrong and not struggle. Seeing this makes you human in a way. Thanks for showing that these jobs aren't always easy and making it ok for the rest of us to struggle sometimes.

[frafreg]

I have 1990 Ford Escort which uses the black TFI or Thick Film Ignition module. It drove me crazy a few times and they simply didn't last. I finally ordered a kit to relocate the TFI module off of the distributor. It came with wires and a heat sink. I relocated the TFI module to the driver side strut post and it solved the problem. The distributor gets hot and heat sinking an electronic circuit to an already hot surface was a bad design. Thank you for all the videos and the wealth of knowledge you have shared over the years. May God richly bless you!

[alexmessina]

Man, I know this probably won't help, but I have immense respect for your work, and watching you have the same frustrations and problems and dealing with the same uncertainties and I do often is just so reassuring. I don't feel like a complete idiot when I just can't pinpoint a cause. and - yes - sometimes change parts as a "diagnostic" method. Well done for all your work and persistance!

[kmanrl]

Thank you brother for showing what us real mechanics go through. It is called sticking with it till you fix the damned thing, takes real grit to not give up. Failure is not an option!! You are a mans man real tech, much respect! Please keep doing what you do, as Red Green said "Remember we're all in this together. I'm pulling for you. Keep your stick on the ice."

[craigbaggett]

I have to say that’s exactly why I go with OEM parts when it comes to certain things ie sensors and modules. Thanks so much for all the schooling 😊

[rubencruz]

I have seen bad solder joints on cheap parts that show up after the parts goes through a few heat cycles. So frustrating and I am relieved Danner saw your frustration and took the time to be a parts changer so you wouldn't have to. Love you guys, Caleb, glad to hear your daughter is dong better.

[swallowinn]

Hello Guys I feel your frustration and then moving to anger. Sometimes the best tool a mechanic can use is the 15 minute coffee break. Cool down and check problem from different perspective. This can save a lot of damaged parts and tools rhrown across the shop. Good job keep the videos coming 👍