1974 Norton Commando engine bottom end rebuild, Part: 3 Bottom end reassembly

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In this video part 3 of the Norton engine rebuild we move on to putting the bottom end back together. We remove the old races from the cases and install new main bearings. We reassemble the crank with rods and slide the case halves back together. We then reassemble the timing chest components, getting it ready to go back in the frame
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Excellent, particularly the sharp, up-close filming.Thanks

paulwoods
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@34 minute mark, regarding the torque specs for various bolts on the Norton, the Haynes & Workshop manuals usually list them at beginning of the chapters, not in the procedure texts. Also, the OldBritts website (closed down but an archive now found on AccessNorton forum) complied a summary of all torque settings of just about everything on the bike in one 4 or 5 page document.
EDIT: Just read on AccessNorton that this worm gear left handed nut should be 15 ft-lbs and experts advise using locktite. Also, the cam shaft gear nut can depend on what cam material is, as there are some which can be fragile. Best advise is 60-80 ft-lbs for stock steel and 15 ft-lbs for the PWC type cast iron cam with locktite for both types.

TornadoCAN
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Great video series. I wish I still had my Norton so I could take the engine apart.

daveinwla
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So no checking the crank or cam endplay or rod journal clearance?

georgehirvela
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Andover sells a plate tool to hold the intermediate shaft solidly to prevent damage to the case hole it locates in while torquing the cam sprocket nut. It is also needed to properly set the chain tension as you cannot get the tension right if the shaft is able to slop back and forth in the hole under load.

TornadoCAN
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I enjoyed this video series - thank you. Interesting (1970's) combination of plain rod bearings and roller crank bearings on the Norton motor. That raises a question - how does oil get to the rod bearings? I saw the oil feed holes in the rod journals but how and where does the oil feed into the crank to lubricate the rod bearings?

tomcangemi
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8.21.22. At the risk of sounding presumptuous⚠️, have you ever give it any thought to have the cases of the engine vapor blasted? Along with the inner primary cover. I suppose you would have to tear down the transmission also too, in order to have that match up with the rest of the alloy parts.🇬🇧 The alloy parts look fabulous after they’ve been vapor blasted as compared to just bead blasted. ♠️ Great video series✊🏽

stevensapyak
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How can we support your cause? Do you sell a DVD on the Norton commando engine rebuild? Thank you for what you've done

gidgetamaya
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Question. At 49:45 you mention that you installed a seal saver on the camshaft. Do you have a part number and vendor for that seal saver?

charleskuss
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What happened when you had the crankshaft crack tested, what did you find ?

roberthocking
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Did I miss it or why didn't you clean up the sludge trap?

BMatBM
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I have a 70 commando S. The end play spec is .010/ .012. Some builder set it at .006 / .010 I do believe that .024 is way to large.
I know where I will set my lower end. (.008 / .010.
I do like the oil fed primary chain tensioner on the 75 models. I'm sure it can be fitted to a early model norton

lanceditty
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Hi Jesse. Great videos. Very helpful as I am about to rebuild my Mk3 engine. Out of interest what manuals did you use?

tonypace
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You should replace the con rod bolts….if they’ve been used once, they are stretched and should be replaced….just saying……

BLUESBOYBENFIELD
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Stop those rod bashing on the caseing guys!

martinboagey
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You didn't lube the camshaft bushings or journals during assembly.

charleskuss
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your concept of inward is strange . To me inward is towards the inside of the motor, but you say inwards then put the bearing in the opposite of what you just said.

kevinoneil
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Way too much sealer between case halves.

ludwig