The Correct Height of a Toilet Flange

[richardhaley]

I've read through some of these comments so I would like to weigh in. The set right system is nice but I don't like the reduction of the 3" to less than a 2 1/2" either. It's a problem just like the offset flanges are a problem, especially on commercial toilets and air-tank flush units. So what to do? You can use their spacers and a 3" flange plate. Or you can be a skilled plumber and use an inside pipe cutter and a coupling to bring up the flange on where it needs to be. Some type of waterproofing on the subfloor is a good idea like an adhesive caulk like Phenoseal on second floor bathrooms. Using the rubber type flange seals is a better idea than the wax rings. They make removing the toilet again easier. Fluidmaster is a good one. Don't use wax rings with the plastic horn. The horn eventually gets cocked inside the flange and obstructs the waste being flushed. Caulking a toilet down is ok for appearance and a good finished look, just don't caulk around the back. Leave that open if there ever is a problem with a leak. Always level the toilet. Always check to make sure toilet doesn't wobble. Always proof your work.

[billykennedy]

As a state licensed plumber with over 23yrs in the trade, i can tell you the easiest, CORRECT way to go about commode rough in/flange installation. When doing the rough-in on new construction use a 4 x 3 closet 90 and come up through the floor with 4 inch schedule 40 PVC. Your 4in commode Riser extending vertically from the 4 by 3 closet 90 should extend roughly of foot above where the Finish floor will be. Do not set the flange until the finished floor is complete at that point cut the 4-inch Riser flush with the finished floor using a Sawzall. Need a 4 x 3 closet flange and glue it inside of the 4-inch pipe. The key is to come up through the floor with 4 inch PVC and get the closet flange that glues tight inside of the 4-inch pipe in other words you're not gluing the flange over the pipe you're finding the 4 x 3 flange that fits inside of 4 inch. To repair a Flames that's already been installed too low they make individual PVC flange extension rings that using a long set of closet bolts you seal down to the original flange that's too low bring it above grade. The product advertised in this YouTube video chokes down the flange by using a type of spigot flange. Absolutely do not use this product as it will choke down your commode flange at least one pipe size causing things to get hung up

[TheDonofDemolition]

You exactly right the flange should be on top of the finish floor.
I’m in the plumbing business for over 30 years, and we always install our flanges on top of the finish floor, our proven method is to stub up through the floor with 4” pvc, if the branch piping is 3” we use a 3 x 4 closet 90 to stub up 4” then we tell the GC to tile up to the 4” pipe. When we trim out the toilet we cut the 4” pvc flush with the finish floor and use a 3 x 4 pvc closet flange that glues into the 4” pipe and screw it down to the finish floor. I know most plumbers want to slap the closet collar down on the rough and be done with it but my method may take a bit longer on the trim but it’s worth the peace of mind we’re doing it right.

[warlok]

I used this product on one tile job. Got called back because toilet kept clogging. The problem with this is that it reduced the pipe opening in a 3” pipe to under 2.5”. Clog city. I wouldn’t recommend stacking up a bunch of wax rings either. The best and easiest solution are the stackable pvc spacers at most big box stores. Just stack them until you are just above the floor level, add a Bead of silicone between spacers and flange and you’re good to go. No reduction in pipe size, no splash back, no leaks.

[stanhudson]

Important side note. Do not caulk around your toilet. If it leaks you want to know. Most times it will show under toilet or discolouration around linoleum, not so much on tile, but if flange was put on the flooring it would. Reason why you want to see it leak is to know when to change it. If not knowing it usually rots floor before showing up on ceiling below. Not always but mostly. Just 45 yrs of plumbing that I have experienced.

[allegory]

The Correct Height of a Toilet Flange is an elusive reality with every toilet I've had to work on.

[senpai]

I'm a very green maintenance tech for an apartment complex. I'm happy to do learning and researching on my own and I'm finding that my supervisor doesn't know as much as he thinks. When teaching me about placement of the flange he said to make the top of it flush with the floor. I think im starting to see why so many of the buildings seem to have issues with leaking flanges if he's been putting them too low and not correcting that when we find them low. And the supervisor before him would just stack wax rings 3-4 high on top of a cracked flange instead of actually installing a new flange. So I think I have my work cut out for me, but atleast I know how to go about correcting and fixing the issues properly now

[samkitty]

So we went from using heavy gauge brass flanges to Chinese made plastic and thin easily corroded sheet metal. Insanity continues...

[snomansupercalifrag]

well explained, i love the display showing the flange sitting either below or above the floor. In my case when I replaced the tile my flange now sat below the floor. I am going to check out your product line.

[giterdun]

I hate this kit. the spacers aren't 7 inches in diameter like a standard flange would be there too big around, and the yellow flange with that tail piece cuts off volume flow (chokes it down). Every time our sales dept( LOWES) supplies this, i opt to just stack the standard stackable flange adapters that are white and are 7 inches standard in dia, i just smear wax rings in between the flanges and compress. Everybodys got to reinvent the wheel. My wheels been rolling for 30 years doing tile floors and remodeling. Flush this kit. go back to the white pvc flange stackers that have worked forever.

[riverraisin]

I took the first measurement at 3 o'clock and the second measurement at 9 o'clock. That's all well and good, but I think it's entirely unreasonable to have to wait 6 hours between measurements! This project took all day!
😉😏

[MrDarren]

Im a plumber of 25 years and no not all flanges should be installed on top of floor....reason ? Some cheaper toilets and even a few quality toilets have very shallow bases and will sit on the flange causing it to there is no issue with installing the flange on sub floor.

[anniegrider]

Finding this video was the highlight of my day. Guess I'm officially an adult. Time is a cruel mistress..

[mikeo]

Real plummer's do the job right, the problem is when people install tile the tile guy doesn't put a flange extender on, over time the toilet leaks and the plywood gets rotted and maybe a floor joist, then you're out of a bathroom and a lot of money.

[sherbournesubwaymess]

It's like a plumber's version of "Three Card Monte"

[Jefleopard]

SALES PITCH WARNING!!!
First off, anyone who uses the metal or plastic swivel flange is using inferior products. Second, never use the adjustable slots. Use the notches that are on the white plastic flange. They are stronger. Anyone who has spent any time doing new construction and service work Ought to know this. And third, anyone who does not know how to seal a toilet when the flange is screwed to the subfloor is not a plumber. The flange is made to be put in on the rough and screwed to the subfloor. It’s been that way since Plumbing began. And if your “Plumber“ doesn’t know how to set a toilet without it leaking, he is not a plumber. This is just a sales pitch for someone to sell a product that they came up with. Just one more thing to buy. I’m not saying it’s a bad or a good idea. But the floor depth and flange height are greatly exaggerated in this video. And to the commenters who say not to screw it to the subfloor and that it is not code, you don’t have a clue what you’re talking about.

[DumbCarGuy]

I was waiting for little heads to pop up so he can hit then back down to win a prize.

[Lilliputian]

At 2:50, I think he meant to say "first thing you're gonna do is remove the screws that are currently holding the old closet flange to the subfloor." THEN put the gasket in...etc.

[DumbCarGuy]

Unless you have the toilet in your hands and you can physically see the bottom of the toilet.  DO NOT set flange on top of finished surface.  There are so many toilet makers now and zero regulations on how far the toilet waste discharge opening is set above the surface of the bottom of the toilet.  Meaning, if you flip over new or old toilets. and put a straight edge from mounting bolt to bolt.  The bottom of of the toilet that actually touches the floor and the bottom of the toilet that discharges waste can vary from 1/4" to 5/8" higher than the floor surface.  So when you set your 3/8 thick pvc toilet flange on top of the tile surface and you bought a cheap toilet that the waste discharge is only 1/4" above the finished surface, your screwed to say the least.  Now you get to be one of those people that have a toilet with 1/2" of caulk under it, sitting on a pile of shims.  Thats also why toilets flanges are screwed to the subfloor.

[pughconsulting]

Call me a glutton for punishment, but every remodel I've done I cut the flange out and put a new one at the correct height. I also screw them down. So many people don't for whatever reason. Even on concrete slabs, I do it. Grout the toilet if on tile or concrete, caulk if on sheet vinyl or plywood. I'm not a plumber but I've been taught by two and I've changed out a bunch of toilets over the years. I don't like gimmicky wax rings either. Just your plain jane wax ring. I've tried others and regretted it. My two cents. If you're a pro, I'm open to criticism for my own learning. Thanks.