How to Replace Front Struts 04-13 Mazda 3

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1A Auto shows you how to repair, install , fix, change or replace your front struts with their loaded struts. This video is applicable to the 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13 Mazda 3

This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2004 Mazda 3
2005 Mazda 3
2006 Mazda 3
2007 Mazda 3
2008 Mazda 3
2009 Mazda 3

🔧 List of tools used:
• 5mm Hex Wrench

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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

[AAuto]

√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*

[BrianMazzocco]

Now...THAT'S how you make an auto repair video...socket sizes when you're about to remove the bolt, torque specs when you're on that bolt, explanations of WHY you are doing something( e.g. removing the axle nut), good camera angles to show what's behind something, every single step documented...excellent video!!

[MarketingCoachKen]

for anyone about to do this job, do not remove the axle nut. I just did this today and it was no problem leaving the axle in place. She used a hammer to get the strut out, you may need to hammer from below to get the new strut in. I had the car on the ground so I used a floor jack to push the knuckle onto the new strut. Not a difficult job but takes some time. After you figure out the first side the second should be easier.

[RUSH]

VERY important aspect that can save you a lot of time and effort: the metal sleeve in which the shock goes into might have a "ring" of rust on the inside at the bottom, exactly where the previous shock absorber bottom ended.
My advice: prepare the surface and be sure it’s very smooth, or else, the new shock will never go in because the sleeve is smaller in diameter than the shock absorber due to that subtle rust. To do so, I used a stone grinding head drill bit and got rid of all that small rust. I also used a little bit of grease and the new shock slid in like a charm, with a jack underneath the balljoint. Before that I did 20 or so attempts because the new shock was slightly longer (couple mm) than the original one and could not get passed that rust ring.

[John.Skelton]

Sue is my favorite. She explains things very well!👏

[specificoh]

You guys at 1A Auto are awesome. You guys have saved me probably enough for a down payment on a small house with all the self repair you guys have taught me. thank you!

[timothyryan]

Thank you, great video. No BS, just facts and proper explanation. My son just got a quote for 600 dollars for shop to do this repair. We will now order new struts from 1A auto and do it ourselves.

[wutUthinkinBro]

this video helped me out so much... the other shorter strut videos don’t compare when this one is so in depth... thank you

[johnmartell]

Excellent Video. Thank you infinity times the only thing I would recommend is the possible application of yellow MAPP gas to heat up any nuts and bolts that are stubborn and cooling off with water three times and rocking those knots or bolts back and forth to loosen them efficiently thank you again

[malcolmduncan]

When installing the strut back into the hub, turn the clamp bolt around the opposite way and put a 2mm washer or piece of steel shim in the slot. Tighten the bolt a small amount onto the washer/shim, to expand the top of the hub and the strut will slide in real easy.
Have to remove the washer/shim to allow the strut to go all the way down, but it makes it really easy to start the strut in the hub, which is always the difficult bit.

[christianobrien]

Sue is without a doubt the best tech you have at explaining/demonstrating mechanical work plus… I’m in love so…🙂

[oldowl]

I'm so glad you posted this with a woman doing the work because my poor mother who refuses to live closer to me needs this done but is always so broke she always puts off major car maintenance. So I told her to just watch this video and then hit up the hardware store for a jack and some wrenches lol. If you can do it, ...she can do it. :) As they say in Boston, it's not

[Beliedat]

This video was great ! The lady was fantastic and explained precisely what to do .

[greenbullitt]

This lady is awesome …  Great video Thank you 1A Auto

[Sledgefist]

I’m just gonna tap it... starts pounding it like a lumberjack chops logs😂

[mikerioux]

Great video! I just replaced both struts and one of the lower control arms. I didn't have a long enough pry bar to keep the hub from rotating while removing and reinstalling the axle nut. Instead, after straightening the punch-lock on the axle nut, I removed the small hub cap at the center of the wheel, put the wheel and lug nuts back on and lowered the car so the tire made solid contact. A 32mm socket fit through the opening allowing me to easily loosen and then torque the nut at the end. I had to remove the wheel again to punch-lock the axle nut once torqued to spec.

[karinjeatran]

thx for including foot lb for all the bolts. Very professional. didn't need a 2nd video =)

[ILOVEBACONBOY]

Awesome thanks. Just fixed my rear struts soon it'll be the front struts. Very detailed!

[anthonyigania]

Very helpful! Torque specs are an important aspect when tightening bolts and lug nuts, thanks for including the specs as well!

[ryansmiley]

My GO TOO, just the work shown so you know what you're getting into. Perfect, thank you!