Complete Guide to the Bowler (Derby) Hat & How To Wear It

#bowlerhat #classichats #notsponsored

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GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:

VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Aaron White & Preston Schlueter
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Paramount Pictures
→ Discovery

SPECIAL THANKS:
→ Steve Heck
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Gentleman's Gazette
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00:00 Bowler Hat Introduction

One of the most popular hat styles is the bowler, and while it’s rarely seen in today’s modern fashion, it’s definitely a classic, which we here at the Gentleman’s Gazette continue to appreciate.

00:40 What Is A Bowler Hat?
Also referred to as a “derby hat” depending on your location, it's a stiff hat. It can be made from polyester, wool felt, or for the best quality possible, fur felt.

03:21 History of the Bowler Hat
It started in 1849. The bowler wasn’t originally designed for style but rather for practicality.

04:45 Why does this hat have so many names?
▬ The hat was originally known as the “Coke hat” named after the Earl, William Coke.
▬ The gamekeepers who wore the hat at Holkham Hall gave it the moniker “Billy Coke” after William Coke, which later morphed into “Billycock.”
▬ Thomas and William Bowler started making more of these hats for the public and decided to market them under their own name as “bowler hats,” which is why this is the most common name for them today. Lock & Co, however, does still refer to this hat style as “the Coke.”
▬ In England, the 12th Earl of Derby began a series of annual horse racing events called the Oaks Stakes named after his estate in 1780. It was later renamed the Derby Stakes and is now known as the Epsom Derby. The word “derby” here meaning a flat race between three-year-old horses.

06:38 19th & 20th Century Bowlers

09:37 The Decline of the Bowler Hat

13:10 Wearing A Bowler Hat: Classic Look
14:15 Casual Look

14:38 Avoid: 1. Mass-Produced-Looking Hats
Most bowlers that are made today are often made cheaply and will use polyester blends or, sometimes, even 100% polyester felts in their construction.

16:15 2. Hats with Feathers (For Non-Hipster Looks)
Feathers in men’s hats date back as far as the 16th century, but they largely died out by around the 17th century, with the exception of military fashions. By the time of the bowler hats introduction, feathers weren’t very popular unless going for a distinctly costumey or theatrical look.
16:45 3. Women’s Bowler Hat Styles
Women’s styles typically sport much shorter brims that are often snapped up all the way around or down all the way around and feature feminine accents like flowers, lace, or large ribbons. These are, again, more in line with cloche styles. They’re also usually softer in construction as opposed to the men’s styles, which, again, are hard and shaped.

20:52 Bowler Hat Care Tips
Before each wear of a bowler hat, you should remember to brush it off with a hat brush as even the smallest amount of dust on the hat that comes into contact with moisture, like raindrops, can potentially leave a stain on the hat’s surface.

21:23 Outfit Rundown

[rdFoot]

The bowler hat with a black suit and umbrella was once the "walking out" dress for British officers, which is why it is seen when veterans march with their former units in the UK.

[jordanthomas]

I have been waiting for this video for 2 years. I utterly adore bowler hats and am so happy we finally have a definitive guide on them with the mellifluous
narration of Preston's voice.

[mungulor]

Just a quick point for our American friends - Leicester is pronounced "les-ter" rather than "lie-ster" :)

[BramClaes]

I think a bowler hat looks best when paired with an all white outfit, complete with suspenders, a jockstrap and a pair of black combat boots. That really sharpens you up for a bit of the old ultraviolence!

[doctrnic]

I first started to love the bowler after seeing it from cartoons and comics like Tin Tin. I even have a photo of my great great grand father Chief Yellowhammer, newly released as a prisoner of war in 1905 from the Modoc war, return to Oregon and he had a bowler clutched in his hand. So I got my first bowler in 7th grade a Bailey from the local haberdasher in Portland and wore it during more formal settings but I always noticed people wearing them in tough situations like heavy work in movies. I always wondered why in movies based in the West and early 20th century seen the bowler worn in all situations. So I started to wear the hat all the time but got disappointed that it started to lose its shape from rain. I currently work at the railroad and occasionally will wear my original worn out bowler at work in cooler weather because it's wool and I still like the idea of an all purpose hat like I grew up watching. I do have a more nicer one which I wear in more cleaner conditions. It's still my favorite hat to pair with my wool top coat in the winter along with my top hats.

[viclucyzia]

There is nothing like learning history. This was trove of knowledge that opens one mind and see the bowler hat from a different angle. Im getting one ! Maybe in brown. Thank you !

[dararohan]

The bowler was actually the original hat of the Cowboy. As cattlemen moved westward, the most common hat seen was the bowler.

[glared]

It’s ironic how the most versatile accessories are the underrated ones. Because stiff hats are mostly if not all the most formal, but the Bowler hat was also common amongst the middle class but also in the aristocracy.

[irishredcoat]

Bowler Hat is one of my favourite out of other hats

[keithattwood]

I have my Lock & Co bowler I wear in lodge, love it!

[muggletoast]

My favorite style hat and part of my favorite Three Stooges joke
Judge - “Kindly speak English and drop the vernacular”
Curly - “Vernacular? That’s a derby!”
Judge - “Drop the vernacular!”
Curly - _drops derby_

[vincent]

Thanks to you guys I finally made a decision and bought a bowler hat ( genuine vintage one ), it's great it fits very well, good condition, looks great and obviously its real vintage. So thank you very much Gentelman's Gazette and keep up the good work.
PS. Please just one small video about frock coats please.

[channingcheese]

Preston looking like the riddler more than ever in this video

[lilcwa]

A very interesting video—although I was flabbergasted that it wasn’t until the 14:21 mark that A Clockwork Orange was given its due as a sartorial statement!

[CloudEvangelist]

I have a Bowler from Diefenthal in Colone, Germany, and I love it.

[TheRefinedGentleman]

What's not to love about bowler hats? They look great with my stroller, of which I usually pair with light-grey twill or cashmere-striped trousers. The bowler contrasts nicer with the cashmere-stripes in my opinion, but still looks pretty smart with the solid grey trousers nonetheless. Having a bowler is a great investment for your wardrobe since it's practical (can be worn for formal occasions, with everyday business attire and maybe even certain types of smart casual outfits if you're daring) and you'll look sharp too. It's a shame men stopped wearing hats, but on the other hand, you'll probably get lots of compliments if you do wear a more traditional hat style. A bowler will definitely bring many compliments even if you're not dressing it up as much as it could. Thanks for the informative video, your content is always a joy to watch. It makes me happy to see that traditional menswear will continue to live on, especially since my generation keeps getting more casual and can't wear suits, let alone a dress shirt correctly.

Edit: Fixed Grammar

[JEDiTV]

Thank you Preston, and all involved at Gentlemen’s Gazette for an informative episode on one of my favorite hat styles. I have several in my collection - some vintage others custom made. I appreciate seeing other folks enjoying and wearing and Derby/Bowler hat.
~Jed 🤠

[athosnogueira]

Neat! A few years ago I bought a locke bowler from the 50s that fit me at a fair for 25€, I just recently got it brushed up and it looks nice!

[jamesdowning]

Greetings from Australia. I have only recently joined your channel but I find your channel to be a joy to watch and I learn something with every video. One day (post COVID) my wife and I will travel to the US and I hope to meet some of the people who to contribute to each video; and perhaps get some personal advice on buying a suit. WELL DONE !!

[bronovalter]

I love bowlers and have wanted one for years. I've had no luck with vintage, since I have an unusual head shape, although I recently read you can steam then to shape. Fortunately I have found a local hatter who is actually within walking distance to my house. His primary market is Black Hat Orthodox Jews, but he also sells 2 levels of quality bowlers. This is a large market in my area, with 4 Orthodox Synagogs also in walking distance. I think a bowler is in my future very soon!