Make Modular RUBBER ROADS for Tabletop Gaming! Easy! Cheap!

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#BlackMagicCraft #Episode295 #tabletopgaming

I finally found a way to make modular roads for tabletop gaming that sit flat, look good, are easy and cheap to make, and durable enough to take a bashing. Fantastic for all sorts of games like Dungeons and Dragons and Warhammer.

[ItsYoji]

I'm loving the recent more "back to the roots" style BMC videos.

[Nerdmancer]

This project just went to the top of my list of projects. So far I have made your dungeon tiles, tents, blood monster mini, and have taken so much inspiration from you. Thanks for all you do.

[jeremysouthard]

Oh man, not just roads, but you could make rivers out of this too!

[yemruk]

Amazing! Would also make for great modular caves. Man, you could even use a bigger piece to create a full size battlemat that you can roll up. You got the juices flowin' here, bud!

[AvgKsHunter]

This may be as iconic of a video and contribution as the dungeon tiles from years ago. Roads, rivers, ponds, craters…man the possibilities are staggering. Good stuff, man!

[waynedaly]

I used that before, it was car mats with furrows, I used them for ploughed fields, never thought of doing roads, great idea.

[emanuelcamuglia]

i was just gonna start cutting cardboard to make the old GW style roads when this popped up. this is great!

[michaelgorham]

Awesome!

Missed an opportunity to say "This is where the rubber meets the road" though.

[CronosVids]

To see the culmination of years of trail and error is amazing. The joy in your eyes when you have these successes is great!

[magnusmillerwilson]

You’re a genius. It’s been years since you personally got me into crafting and then into mini painting, and I can’t believe that somehow you continue to deliver amazing content that is funny, useful, beginner-friendly, accessible anywhere, and you make all the mistakes and explain your reasoning along the way. As an engineer that loves doing art and hobbying, I appreciate SO MUCH your thought process as you do your crafting. Please never quit, and I can’t wait to get a hold of Idols of Torment to get crafting and playing!

[shep-celsus]

I'm going to use this to make bases for my clusters of trees. I like the trees being movable to move models in and out of the woods but to still have the clear line of where the section of woods/difficult terrain begins and ends.

[thegrahamsullivanshow]

If any Australians are watching, you can get a roll of insertion rubber by moroday which is 1.5mm thick, 200mm width and 2m length roll from bunnings for 18 dollars. I then just used Polyfilla coloured gap filler from bunnings also. They both worked a treat.

[Kraleck]

Amazing craftwork, once again. Also, kudos for the use of "Forbidden Peanut Butter" in the narrative.

[robertbesanceney]

I bet you could also make modular rivers and creeks using the same method. This video gives me a few new ideas that I would never have considered. Thank you for always coming up with some amazing ideas.

[Goldwrapp]

I literally squealed in excitement for this!!! I've been pondering how to make a modular road with caulking for years. Yours is exactly what I envisioned. Well done Jeremy :)

[jherazob]

I just love how hard you try to hide how giddy you are with this, and failing at it :D

[BillAllanWorld]

This is a breakthrough in terrain crafting! I can't wait to try this out!

[tsbulmer]

These look *fantastic*, and have me wondering about streams, creeks, and other things to complicate movement.

[heresbrownbear]

Dude! Don't settle down. This is a GAMECHANGER!!!

[Creaturiste]

Looking fantastic and rugged! Suggestion for version 2.0, or just a neat variation: Rubber latex! RD-407 by monster Makers for a liquid, and/or Mold Builder for a thick application.
With either of those, you'd get the same practical properties as your rubber mats, but your edges would be more organic and taper more subtly, the latex itself can be tinted, and you'd be sure of never suffering from delamination. You'd have even more control of the thickness of each piece, including variations from super thin (extra flex there) and thick(extra weight). As for painting over it: just tint the same latex with either pigments or acrylic paint. This way, the paint bonds with the latex, they don't crack or peel off. To dilute, always use distilled water to avoid the premature coagulation that some tap water creates. Application: on a non-stick surface with your road design drawn on (or under if it's transparent), pour your liquid latex and move it around with a stick or painting knife until you have your shape. When it's dry, repeat if you need more thickness / texture. The Mold Builder's thickness is your friend here. Add rocks and sand when things are still malleable, just like you did here. Same as for paper mache, I always use a fan at lowest speed to ensure air flow to speed up drying.

I've made warts for a dragon puppet by pouring some liquid latex over a scrap piece of polyfoam (upholstery foam), and left it to dry. The edges were perfect. And once dry, it was easy to peel off and glue (contact cement) to a polar fleece puppet's face. I can imagine this approach working real well for a puddle of potion or acid. Think fake vomit prop­!

To ensure proper permanent bonding between latex applications, it's often recommended to add within 24 hours of each layer. But I've repainted older pieces (years old) with new latex and never got any such problems as long as I cleaned the old latex thoroughly with dish soap and water, and dried it fully before painting.

I base my suggestion on my experience working with such latexes for making masks, puppets and props for Theatre.
Enemies of latex:
UV rays: Yes, you can use the sets outdoors for an event, and every time, it will reduce the lifespan a bit. Just make sure not to store or display in sunlight, just store in the dark, you'll easily get 20 years of working life. 25 seems to be the peak lifespan according to some FX artists, but it really depends on usage and storage conditions.
Sugar: Major no-no. It eats away at latex like acid, but slowly enough we don't notice at first.
Human sweat and oils: they also attack the latex. Over time, it gets sticky, then it falls apart. Just don't wear the stuff during workouts!
The weaknesses are negligible when one considers the advantages of rubber latex: nearly indestructible because it stretches and resists impacts, lays really flat too.