EEVblog 1497 - RIP Fluke. Thanks Energizer. NOT.

RIP this Fluke 3000 wireless multimeter. Thanks Energizer for the alkaline battery leakage!

00:00 - Why doesn't this Fluke meter work?
02:12 - Cleaning alkaline battery leakage
04:44 - Let's look inside...
05:36 - Under the microscope. RIP solder mask.
08:53 - SMD Resistor Oops!
11:30 - Sponging up solder mask?
13:36 - For the Energizer battery leakage aficionados
14:56 - Found the rest of the solder mask!
16:01 - He's dead Jim
17:26 - Bottom side too!

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#ElectronicsCreators #Fluke #energizer

[BenHeckHacks]

"Energizer! You were the chosen one! You were meant to replace Duraleaks, not be them!"

[DoTheDiy]

Always store the meters with display facing up. This will prevent the electrolyte from reaching the pcb. I learned this hard way

[PhillipRhodes]

I'd definitely love to see a repair video on this thing. Exactly because it does appear to be a moderately challenging repair and indeed one that might not otherwise be economically viable. But for educational value? Can't beat it. Show us how it's done, Dave!

[nakrul]

Strong bases like sodium or potassium hydroxide are used for removing solder mask. Alkaline batteries usually use potassium hydroxide as an electrolyte.

[SantaClaw]

I run Lithium AA and AAA batteries in all my test gear. Lasts for a lot longer, and never leak. I'm talking about the non rechargeable variety, "Energizer ultimate lithium" etc. Mice, radio controllers remotes etc. Lasts a lot longer, and as I said, never leaks.

[fkiesel]

Energizer has a no leaks guarantee. I would try to take them up on it and see how they react.

[mikeselectricstuff]

If it's a 4- layer PCB and vias are corroded, the via connection to inner layers may be broken. that would be bad....

[scottthomson]

Rayovac paid for a replacement ZTS battery tester from leaking cells. I believe I had to email a photo, and provide lot numbers from the cells. They took care of it, and it was a pretty easy process. I think Energizer has a similar leakage guarantee.

[QLTD]

Thanks Dave, I checked my fluke 17B and looks like my Energizer batteries, just started leaking! No damage. So glad that your video made me check now, cuz I've been pushing it and thinking they're fine, will check later!

[jaideep]

I've had this exact same thing happen to my Fluke meter as well.
The batteries leaked and corroded the contacts and also did some damage to the board inside.
They should make thee battery compartment sealed because there's always going to be cells that leak.

[TomLeg]

They always warn you to remove batteries, prior to longer storage. If only we had time machines to notify us ahead of time when long-term storage begins. Of course, manufacturers want the devices to disintegrate, so you have to buy a new one. But wouldn't it be great if the battery compartment could pop off, or at least semi-detach.

[AnalogX]

Can you imagine how many electronic devices have been destroyed over the years because of leaky batteries, especially retro stuff.

[ginbot]

I actually just finished an LED work light leakage repair a day ago. I opted to never deal with leaky AAs in it again, and decided to gut the original 3xAA battery holder and go with a Li-ion-based solution. I added USB-C charging functionality and filled the battery compartment with 3300mAh worth of disposable vape batteries (thanks BigClive for that tip!).

[WizardTim]

Ouch, that's a really bad leak, seen similar plastic and solder mask damage before but only even with two decade old batteries, never with a still in-date Energizer. Now I'm scared my Excel sheet of battery replacements by expiry date isn't enough!

Would be very interested in you testing the Energizer leakage guarantee (not with your Twitter power but as a normal consumer), I hear they do actually honor it and will send you a payment for the value of the item. But I wonder if they would actually compensate you for this or pull the good old "Australia isn't a real country, so we can't offer support on your issue" which I often get from other companies.

[fabimre]

The "crack" on the back-case is a result of blisterforming.
The Fluke Yellow plastic contains a metal filler meant to be a fire-retardant. It is probably the same as what made ivory PC's yellow over age, as well as parts of washing machines.

[hailstevemcqueen]

I'd definitely do a full bath in warm water first, with scrubbing, or some ultrasonic cleaning. Maybe a clean second bath. Then a full IPA bath. Reason is, you can safely assume those substances are a) much better soluble in water than in IPA and b) hygroscopic, so any trace amounts you leave behind will just continue corroding everything.

[ericwilner]

The electrolyte from leaky capacitors can also destroy things... as I learned at considerable expense some years ago, when my third-hand Tektronix digital oscilloscope of a certain vintage developed leaky capacitors (the scope having been made during the time when Tek was using off-brand caps), causing irreparable damage to a zillion-layer PC board. This turned out to be a known failure mode for certain models, with the only solution being to replace all the electrolytic caps before they failed.

I haven't lost any equipment to leaky alkaline cells lately, but I've certainly noted used-up cells (including name brands) leaking copiously while awaiting disposal.

[Digital-Dan]

Over the years, I have advanced from alkalines to NiMH rechargables, having found NiCads useless, to NiZn rechargables (great voltages but short lifetimes in my experience), and finally to widely available LiIon rechargables. The latter appear to be meeting all the requirements. I have 3 sets of 4 along with two four-AA chargers. Back in the day, I found Duracells much more likely to spew than the Energizers, but alkalines be alkalines, in the final analysis.
Also, consider switching to microfiber swabs. There are big flat ones and little pointy ones.

[andersvandegevel]

I had my head in my hands when Dave started with the brush. You really have to take the case apart first, or you just get more contamination inside the meter

[frosty]

I would check all the corroded vias. I remember specifically seeing a via on an old HP power supply just not conduct through to the other side because of corrosion, and fixing that brought it to life. With this battery gunk seeping thorough inside the vias and onto the other side, chances are it ruined the connection inside those vias.