MAME Bartop Arcade Machine build. Part 16

This week I test fit the Perspex bezel and marquee. I also suffer a set back with the T moulding.

Rockstarprint ebay

Trent Plastics Fabrications

Rich's Bartops Arcades

[gfsh]

i agree mate really good as allways. Its really comeing together now great stuff Fred and thank u very much for the time and truble u have taken to put all of this info out there for us.

[PrintingGeek]

thanks for the video! I ordered some perspex too! Thanks for finding it and sharing with us ;)
all the best

[CS-yrge]

Been a while in the making and it's totally worth the work looks good

[RingwayManchester]

Love it fred, it's coming together now!

[PeterMaddison]

A while back, when you were installing the joysticks, I would have screwed them to the board from the underside so that there would be no scres showing on the outside as it spoils the decal.

[PeterMaddison]

It would look good with another decal over the perspex covering the monitor with a window cut out so you can actually see the monitor.

[AeronNL]

Great vid as usual Fred! Man that t-molding is messed up, it is a shame they send it that way as well. Good to hear you got a refund!
I wanted to suggest the same as Andy Warburton regarding the Player 2 button. I think it is better to have it on the other side, and an illuminated button right next to it, same as for Player 1. That way player 2 can press his/her own button when they want to play along, and you can use the illuminated buttons as Insert Coin buttons. You can even have it light up or blink when the player has no more credits, but then a separate component is needed (Pacdrive) in combination with software (Ledblinky).

Anyway, looking forward to see your Marquee and t-molding applied!
Cheers!

[markhowe]

im in process of making my bartop arcade i used a 12mm mdf wood and i didnt realise you couldnt get a 12mm t molding so ive applied the 18mm t molding to mine but im trying to figure out if there is any way i can trim the t molding down to fit the 12mm while the t molding is on the bartop arcade machine but yeah as for the t molding im here in new zealand and i get my t molding from a place on trademe based in blenheim new zealand probably not much of any help to you though being in a different country.

[robertsimpson]

don't take the safety paper off the aclik until you are done with it

[stevengailey]

Fred, really enjoying your videos, shame it's coming to an end though. You're right about your t moulding, that's shockingly bad. Like the other guys I got mine from arcade world, not the cheapest but fantastic quality stuff. Anyway, cheers for the entertainment 😊

[andy_warb]

Fred, loving the videos! Just a thought but shouldn't your player 2 start button be on the right side? (That's how I'm doing mine but maybe it's just personal preference).

[menacegtr]

Hi to you, I have been watching all your videos and on this video I had to comment. It was a shame you didn't go with clear  Seimitsu buttons, you could have kept the whole picture and not spoil the panel, I did a similar thing with my Modded X-Arcade stick using an R-Type image and i kept the cutouts of the buttons and just placed them inside the clear buttons to retain the image, looks stunning, I used clear Seimitsu buttons to keep the whole picture and not be covered by your coloured buttons. But overall your cab looks good

[PeterMaddison]

I would have sent that moulding back, it looks scratched TF too

[Shundi]

I bought buttons from this company in the past when they were called Gremlin Solutions and they pretty good.

[SollyLife]

Another great informative video, Fred.
Where did you get your PC power on/shutdown button from?