Starting up the 2JZ! Did we FIX the Problem!?

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The time has come to fire up the 2jz again. Did we fix the problem? Or did we make it worse?

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#DIY #Build #300ZX #REBUILD #Nissan

[UltraMagnis]

Hey Kalvin.

The turbo coolant line. Because of the space you have it in the heat is insane it's why you are chewing through piping the exhaust manifold is right there.

The trick that I used on my 2j was make a hardline fitting to get it past the high heat areas then fitted an AN fitting to the hardline. So basically you create a long nipple coming out of the turbo coolant fitting. I also did it with the oil lines so I will never have heat troubles with every turbo line including oil feed and return. Basically it makes it a 2 part item. Flexy line for routing it then hardline in the areas it is really hot like the side of the turbo facing the block.

I also still put some heat shielding on it as well just to keep it extra safe. If done right it can look really trick. Custom hardline adapters with proper heat rated lines.

Might save you a few bucks instead of doing the entire coolant line as hard line.

The other issue with hardlines is the movement of the engine under load it can snap the ends off them. Hence why I used some flexy line as well still have hardlines coming off the turbo but flexy lines in the areas you cant see to deal with the movement of the motor.

Again just a suggestion my dude. Been where you are with my build all the little issues that just drive you nuts.

Good luck with it

Ps I always make sure I give ya vids a thumbs up :). Loving the content. This is what a lot of people dont see with project cars. The downtime and working out issues. It's good to see because it's not as easy as everyone thinks having 500ish hp in a cramped little space like in a z32. You have to use ya brain to work out solutions. You fix one and then another arises.

[joshXnovak]

The nose panel has a rubber liner on the leading edge if I’m not mistaken. The plastic itself has a gap without that rubber. So if you add a rubber liner, it should act as a buffer and help the whole assembly sit flush. Then again, my nose panel is OEM and I haven’t installed my KBD yet, so I’m no expert.

[crawford]

Im ready for more #HPlogic #FLORIDA content keep it up buddy 👌

[Jursaw]

If only you were closer, I have tons of Toyota Coolant! The pink diluted stuff. We don’t use the red anymore because Pink replaced it. The feeling must be great after you cut that input shaft off! Little by little its becoming a solid build

[angeloriddess]

Bro it aint that hard to click the like button for this man ...it may take just as much energy you took to click on the video ...please give this man a like ..he deserves it

[ZEKE]

You should be running a fan shroud to help your cooling... helps draw air past the full surface of the radiator allowing it to cool faster.

[GroovesAndLands]

How do you figure there is "no load" on an input shaft?

Obviously there is engine torque applied to the shaft, so there is a bunch of torsion. At high speed, that will cause the shaft to whip - which the pilot bearing accommodates. More importantly though, the input shaft has the cluster gear for the trans, which is transmitting torque in every gear except 1:1 (5th in the case of the CD009). As torque is put through the cluster gearset, it tries to push the gears away from one another. Because the front bearing is ahead of this radial force, and not on the centerline of it, there is a MOMENT put on the shaft, and the input shaft bearing (a ball bearing which is designed to bear radial and/or axial loads only) is not capable of handling it - so by design, the moment is resisted by the pilot bearing.

You are now applying a load to the input shaft bearing that it is not designed, or capable of handing.

[blablabla]

Hey Kalvin, just a heads up, where you made the aluminum tabs for the radiator make sure you add some sort of rubber isolator like an o ring around the bolts or rubber gromet so the aluminum isn't laying directly on the steel of the radiator support. It will rust the steel.
Good luck dude, thanks for the content.

[TheMdavis]

Hey man been digging you build on this car. Just a food for thought you might be better off sticking with just the one fan pulling if you put one in the front it may impair airflow by reducing the frontal surface area for coming through the front of the radiator the biggest thing would be to make sure the back pulling fan is up against the radiator with a shroud to create pull instead of just air blowing around. A radiator fan without a shroud is kind of like trying to drink through a straw with a bunch of holes in it. Anyways keep at it love where you're going with it and enjoying your content

[ZGarage]

You should check your slave cylinder. If the seal inside the plunger ( either master or slave) is bad your clutch will drop like a rock to the ground. When I had this issue on my z33 I bled it and bled it with a power bleeder (pressure) and finally bought a rebuild kit for both and behold, both seals were shot and would leak and not hold pressure.

[donron]

Calvin keep ya head in the game, not everyone has a 2jz 300zx you’re beast

[bilalelmawey]

Hey man. I love you channel. I take your inspiration to my own builds. Im from Australia and have a 180sx (240sx for you) with a Ca18det. Always make sure that I like and share your vids!

[magnetic]

Ducting and shrouding the radiator and intercooler is the single best thing you can do for cooling

[modifiedz]

If your watching this man's videos and you aren't hitting the like button, your part of the problem. Show some appreciation!

[streetstylez]

my ptp blanket has been the best ive bought so far. Its pricey but its held up super nice

[DjVioxy]

keep up the good work man ! been loving you content since i found you on youtube, hope you can come to australia some day! much love my dude

[Jason-ostx]

A puller fan with a good shroud works wonders

[MUDDASIK]

You need braided stainless line for the water line. Blocking the gaps on the sides of the radiator will force the air through it and not around it (same goes for intercooler). Shroud the puller fan and put a panel on the bottom to stop the air from flowing out underneath the car. This way you will be able to drive in FL, lol.

[zehlersan]

Hey kalvin check out this Nicopp Nickel/copper line might be good for what you need bends easier than stainless and wont rust! Maybe do what one of the other viewers did with a flex section once you get past the hot section. Thumbs up brother!

[josephrojas]

For the nose panel, there's a bracket on the OEM nose panel that slides on to the front bumper bracket and gets held down. Not sure if you transferred that bracket over