2004-2014 F-150 Front Strut Replacement

In this video I show you how to replace broken front springs and struts on your 2004 to 2014 F-150. Broken springs are a common problem with these trucks. I used a set of strut/spring assemblies by Monroe because the truck that I was working on still had the originals on it and it had over 120,000 miles on them. If the mileage on your truck is lower you can replace just the springs but the strut must be disassembled, the new springs installed, then reassembled. Replacing the broken springs with a new strut assembly is much quicker. Here are some links to the parts and the tools that I used:

Monroe Quick Struts:
2014's are left and right side specific and 2WD/4WD specific.

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The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.

[RepairGeek]

Monroe Quick Struts:
2014's are left and right side specific and 2WD/4WD specific.

Help support the channel by using my Amazon links.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.

[gene]

Only 2nd video I've seen where everything wasn't removed that didn't need to be, good job.

[michaelwdagle]

You're supposed to torque the bottom nut on the strut with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension or the bushing in the strut will get damaged.

[stevencross]

hahaha 2:54 he said "deez nutz"Nice video tho.

[MrEmuGaming]

I recommend on a 4x4 you replace upper control arms if they are bad before putting in new strut

[darrelpainter]

Should vehicle weight be on it before you torque that honker nut?

[dannyorsello]

I did this job on my 07 F150, did the brakes at the same time, wish I had your shop and lift, I did in my driveway with jacks, it wasn't easy.

[erictownsend]

Excellent camera work, i could see everything like i was there, audio is perfect as well. Thanks very much for sharing, now i know i can do it, and not only that, i can do it in my garage. Very helpful

[Cschwanz]

Whoops, at 9:55 you fully torqued the lower main bolt while the control arm was lowered (unloaded), therefore the bushing was twisted, deformed and degraded when placed under load at ride height. Put a jack under the control arm and raise it up, THEN torque it down to save your customer some grief. Nice video otherwise, good vibe.

[jameslester]

Tapping the end of a threaded bolt with a hammer... not a good idea. 😬

[SSNReactorOperator]

Probably shouldn’t make a video admitting he can’t apply the specified torque to a critical fastener on a customer’s vehicle because he doesn’t have the right torque wrench.

[adrew]

nice video but one thing I thought was true and maybe its not that you should tighten that large bottom bolt up at ride height

[DrewDeGraff]

Several other videos state do not torque the axle nut until its under load pressure.

[filster]

One mistake here. The lower strut bolt should be loose before torquing it to spec, the weight of the front end should be place on a jack stand or jack under the lower A-arm to simulate ride height and allow the lower bushing of the strut to be properly positioned. Torquing that bolt to specs is the last thing to do before mounting wheel.

[jeremymcmichael]

Thank you for posting that. I have a 2013 F154 wheel drive XLT. Is that the same as a 2014?

[robnation]

Most wannabe alignment shops make it worse... Or return it to you with your steering wheel off-center.

[curt]

always hit all those must with PB blaster..let em soak ..wire brush..just never know! while your at it add a leveling spacer

[javiejaynew]

So no need to take off the control arm while doing this process??

[Daddymem]

Thanks for this video, it encouraged me to do it myself. One problem though, my 2011 F-150 does not look like that. My control arm comes in from the top and was an absolute bear to get off. My strut bottom doesn't go into an open bracket like yours, it went into more like a channel. That meant I had to remove the lower control arm, sway bar, and upper control arm to get everything opened enough to get the strut out...and that was even more of a bear. How come mine is different?

[alexanderchenf]

Repair? No way repairing that spring would be a good idea