Five Silver and Gold Coins you should NOT buy! Avoid these mistakes!

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Spegtacular
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I've bought cleaned, chipped, and dinged coins for spot or under spot. Silver is silver, gold is gold.

ivanmejia
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Fine line between Silver, Coins and Silver Coins. Im a collector so I stack it all. Walkers, Ikes, SBAs, 64’s, 76’s, 35/40%… I love em all the same.

illinoisprospector
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I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE me some silver war nickels. I used to be opposed to any older coinage that wasn't 90%, but I realized that for a barter scenario these could be extremely handy coins. They contain a bit less silver than a 90% dime, with the dime containing roughly 1/14 oz. of silver and the war nickel containing roughly 1/18 oz. of silver. To each his own of course, but with their superior recognizability factor (like you said, just look for the gigantic mint mark!, ) I believe these rank right up there with 90% Constitutional coinage for barter. They're also just as liquid as any other type of silver. Yes, it pays to shop around and look for deals as with anything. Just MHO.

Mike.L.
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To weigh my safe down I just buy more silver . There’s about 160lbs + the weight of the safe it’s self . By the time they make it down the stairs I’d probably catch up with them and ask them “ hey do you need a hand with that” lol 😂

savagestacker
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I have heard, because of the manganese, that refineries don't like these war nickels so you're only buyers would be collectors, small dealers and Some stackers. If everything collapsed and they wanted the silver from the nickel, with it being harder to work with war nickels, you might only be able to trade it with someone who will want them. So I've heard.

LatimusChadimus
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I've bought holed coins in otherwise fine condition like a 3 cent silver "trime" or "fish scale" recently off FleaBay, and for what little I paid have been happy just to have them as a "type". Then again, I'm a "casual" and not an "investor-collector", nor have I ever really focused on American coinage, aside from a brief stint as a kid focused on finer condition Mercury dimes. The older the better was always sort of my motto. So I've always tended to be drawn to affordable or even lots of uncleaned ancients like your very basic Roman Imperial stuff (tip: soak 'em in olive oil for a couple of weeks and only then break out the toothpicks and an old toothbrush to see what you got). At a coin shop I tend to be the guy pawing through those various bins of "randoms", often European or other "unclassifieds", just looking for interesting older nuggets. But your advice is good: if you're looking for a little "investment silver", in case the Dollar takes a poop, just rummage through the spot trays of the 90% pre-'65 American silver stuff. I'd further guess that Mercury Dimes, Franklin Halves, dated Standing Liberty Quarters, Morgan or Peace Dollars, or other non-current types might be preferable, since there's no chance of a base metals clad equivalent to confuse even the unknowledgeable, and "old" is generally, if inaccurately, considered more valuable. Even a fairly worn random Mercury dime will always look more "valuable" than a better condition Roosevelt one, which to the untrained eye, if we're someday reduced to fighting with dogs in the streets for food, might merely be seen as just another now-worthless dime. But if the excrement REALLY hits the ventilation device, weigh down your safe with a dozen cans of Fruit Cocktail from the Dollar Tree. One of those will be going for three or four Standing Liberty Halves if things get really bad. And it's anybody's guess what a can opener might be worth.

BilgemasterBill
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I'm fairly new to numismatics, and have only been collecting for about 6 months. My collection started by connecting Constitutional silver minted during WW2, which led me on my path to collecting for the sake of the history of coins. I have plenty of War nickels, holed coins, and coins dug up from Civil War battle fields.

albertj
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To figure out how much a given half dollar is worth, follow these simple steps: Check the date on the coin. 1964 or earlier means it's 90% silver. 1965 to 1970 means it's 40% silver. Also, Even a dateless Standing Liberty 1916 is still generally worth over $1, 000, so it's worth knowing what to look for.

kokopelliark
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0:38 We adore War Nickels and always have. They contain 35% silver, and every other Jefferson nickel, every Buffalo nickel, every Liberty nickel, every Shield nickel contains 0%. The 1950-D nickel cost us a few bucks, but it's the only other Jefferson nickel that cost us more in a circulated grade than a War Nickel.

tomgraham
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I got really excited when I saw the faux-NGG-graded coin in the pile! Alas, it wasn't discussed. Can you (or anyone explain) how you were able to determine it was fake?

Kirok
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Its amazing how so many people are worried about weighing down something that can easily be bolted to the floor or wall. Especially when they come with bolts🤯

Jimboslice
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I found a 43 P war nickel in my change last week. I did add that one to my stack

daviswall
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15:45 What's the Saint Gaudens actually made from?

davebellamy
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So everyone that has war nickles, 40% halves & dateless silver coins, put them back in circulation and I'll hunt them. For those who have all ready done so, thank you very much.

kenfiddes
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QUICK NOTE:
At the 10:38 minute mark, you show the engraving on the reverse of that Seated Liberty dime. Nice. But I did see a potential problem with the raised staples on that 2x2 flip. Ideally, those should be flattened down or it runs the risk of damaging other coins, when handling several together. I've done that by accident. So I use a 5 inch, flat nose pliers with 'smooth jaws, ' that you can buy at any hardware store for about $15 bucks. It works perfectly to flatten down those raised staple edges, and leaves no marks as would a typical set of pliers with crisscrosses on the paper flip. No one wants to accidentally add a fresh, clean, modern scratch into the field of a nicely toned Morgan or on any valuable coin you have in your collection. –– Nice videos!

fredchester
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Still on the 1/10 oz challenge, got my September gold 2 days ago, sober October here we go

chrisfriesen
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I dunno about your take on 40%… I bought them at $1 last year and I’m pretty damn happy at where they’re at now. Closest coin to get at spot. Great for budget stackers.

EstebanValdez
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Ok the silver nickle and the 40%
I see a use there normally cheaper right? Less premium right?
If you think you might need to barter for small stuff. Like a few eggs a meal you anything small.
Would they not be better than the little tiny silver bars? Would they not have less premium than the little bar?

tbjtbj
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i've learned so much on your channel on how to detect & avoid buying fakes. I have the sigma machine and all of the other little tools to help spoke a fake. Thanks Speg! You the man!

vincentcatanzaro
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I understand both "fake" and "copy", but if it's a "Fake copy", doesn't that mean it's real?

sonnydelight