How & When To Replace Your Derailleur Jockey Wheels

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The jockey or pulley wheels on your bike do the job of both moving the chain across the cassette as well as keeping the chain tensioned. In the process, they turn thousands of times and get pretty gunked up and do wear out. Jon talks you through how and when to replace them.

What are you going to need? Firstly, some replacement pulley wheels. These do come in different sizes, so the number of teeth on them, and this is important as they need to be fit inside the cage of the derailleur as well as having the chain wrap around it too. I’ve tried using pulley wheels with more teeth, and they haven’t always worked well, if at all. Then of course you can have options with ceramic bearings that spin freely compared to standard bearings.

Lets look at when they need replacing, if the teeth are very sharp or in the worst case, worn away. Then it is time for new ones. Or some have sealed bearings and whilst they can be temporarily revamped, it is a smarter option to replace the complete units, as after all they do need replacing.

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Have you replaced or upgraded your jockey wheels before? Let us know. 👇

gcntech

Jockey wheels are where you should start when cleaning your chain. They clog grease and dirt and will just keep transferring it on to your chain links when cleaning

LUCYDIAMONDBOXER

At the conclusion of my group ride of 47 miles yesterday, I pointed out that my buddies derailleur cage/jockey wheels were running at a angle rubbling the sides of the cage (NOISY) and suspected they were worn out. I then pointed out the lower jockey wheel teeth were practically worn off and allowing the chain to slip across and against the side of the cage. He had 1 1/2 miles to home. It blew apart 1/2 mile from home.
Don’t neglect to maintain your derailleur!

awesomexistence

That's a good and simple way of changing jockey wheels. Never thought of this method. When I changed mine, I took the chain out, then the rear derailleur before I changed it. Tedious and time consuming I must say but I did manage to clean the derailleur and cage really well

AgingBoy

Excellent video Jon. I learn a lot from your clear, easy to understand tutorials.

tedallenwolff

upgrading my dura ace several years ago I noticed the lateral play in the guide pulley when I removed it. my "upgrade" pulley didn't have the lateral movement, but I put it on anyway. it was noisy from the start. to my eye the alignment was correct . it got worse, I contacted the company owner who told me my dura ace was worn out it shouldn't have any play. hmmmm! it was a brand new 7900 that was replacing my 7800. thank you for confirming the lateral play.

billhackley

Thank you for explaining the direction of the guides, and for paying attention to Guide or Tension pully itself. Well done.

piperflyerassociation

Nice upgrade! It looks like you replaced factory jockey wheels with after-market low-friction ones with ceramic bearings.

_Some considerations when upgrading to low-friction jockey wheels..._
1 - Expect your drivetrain to be a little noisier. Why? Because factory jockey wheels usually have non-metal teeth which are fairly quiet. Low-friction jockey wheels often have metal teeth (aluminium or titanium) that are noisier as they engage the chain.
2 - Expect more frequent maintenance. Why? Because the bearings cannot be sealed as well (weatherproof seals add friction). For example, some manufacturers recommend that you clean and regrease the jockey wheels after every ride through rain.
3 - Expect a shorter lifespan compared to factory jockey wheels. Why? Because low-friction bearings often combine ceramic balls with metal races. The metal is softer than ceramic and, if any dirt gets into them, the harder ceramic balls can score the metal races. However, the lifespan can be extended simply by keeping the bearings clean and freshly greased.
4 - For best friction reduction, expect to upgrade the cage, too. Why? Because the best low-friction jockey wheels are much larger (more teeth) in order to smooth the path of the chain. This also reduces friction. These larger low-friction jockey wheels will not fit your factory cage.

Lastly, some high-end rear derailleurs include ceramic bearings in the jockey wheels from the factory. SRAM Red (both mechanical and eTap) are one example. Cyclists who don't know this may be unaware that their jockey wheels require more frequent service in order to keep the friction low.

D.Eldon_

Everything I wanted to know in one concise and well presented video, thank you !

paulblackfield

The back plate of Campagnolo rear deraileurs is made of very soft metal (something close to cheese). So you have to be VERY careful when doing up the screw that forms the axle. If you strip the thread (I have), then you have to replace the entire cage.

NormAusSmith

Wish I knew this before my last ones wore out and changed about every part in my drive train. Need to check if I got the right one on the right location, now! Good tips- really overlooked.

joro

Thanks Jon! That genuinely made my night. Thanks! It taught me simple techniques that I should already know. Trying to be a better mechanic.

jeeping

I love how your hands are still clean after the whole video! lol

liangyinmax

5:01 i appreciate the tip, ill make sure i install it the right way next time. If i needed a tutorial to unscrew two bolts i really don't see how you think i would be able to fix the chain by simply "refitting it with the chain in the correct place"

tntcake

just to clear things up guide or upper is the pulley closer to the base of the unit. upper and lower is a matter of perspective and the derailleurs position which changes, that one is not directional. the tension pulley which can easily be referred to as the pulley that is further from the derailleur, is directional and should have bladed teeth also with arrows pointing in the same direction as the chain would move as your pedaling to move forward (not back pedaling)

timtaylor