Swarm Traps Part 1 - Avoid These Beginner Mistakes!

Last year was my first attempt at putting out a swarm trap. Despite doing some things right, I made enough big mistakes that kept me from catching any swarms.

Here I outline three of my mistakes.

1) The entrance was too small. I loved the idea of using a nuc entrance on the swarm trap despite knowing it was smaller than is recommended. This year I’m going with the recommended size of 2 square inches and planning to close up the trap by stapling a section of number 8 hardware cloth across the opening.

2) The trap wasn’t watertight. I felt short on equipment and didn’t want to use a telescoping lid if I didn’t need to. I needed a watertight lid. Any hint of water and a honeybee scout will cross that box off the list of potential homes. This year I will be using telescoping lids.

3) I only put out one trap. This is a numbers game and I only had one chance. If you want 5 swarms, put out at least 10 traps.

This video shows a converted old deep. I will be using a different style this year and I will show it off in my next video.

#beekeeper #beekeeping #honeybees #bees

[stonkpuppets]

The disk is fine. I’ve caught many with them.

[RichardGilland-wysq]

I caught 8 swarms last year with the same disc on the entrance. My frames weren’t in the way either because I made my traps 15 inches deep

[ScottPurcell]

I agree with others who don't think the entrance disk was a factor. I put out 4 swarm traps last year and caught 5 swarms (2 from the same location, separated by a few weeks. Here's a tip -- if you put the word out that you can do bee removals (even if you don't do complex removals from a house) you'll likely be called to occasionally (or frequently, depending on the area) remove bees from places like sunken water-meter boxes. Once you know where a removal has been done before, ask for permission to hang a trap nearby. Three of my swarms were from places where I knew bees had been removed previously. Scouts have an amazing ability to find places where bees have lived before -- even years ago. Scent with old brood comb, propolis, and a hint of lemongrass oil and they'll find you.

[johnl]

I have no problem with the disc entrance. My hole is the exact size as the disc entrance

[SylantBill]

8 traps with circular entrance covers. Caught 7 swarms. Alot of my catches was near water. Caught 4 swarms in woods behind neighbors house with in ground pool. Placement is every thing.

[thomasrape]

I use a 10 frame shallow box with a 1/4" plywood bottom and one of the large entrance discs. I put a deep box on top of that with 4 starter striped frames and one frame of old black brood comb. I close the top with a telescoping top, no inner cover. Just rachet strap it together and add a few drops of lemon grass oil on a cotton ball. Set at 2 locations last year and cought 5, yes 5 swarms. Admittedly 2 were small and 1 was tiny but the first 2 were nice big swarms. I have traps in both locations now as well as 3 others but so far nothing.

[DavidWilliams-wrwb]

Mine works good, when I build my hives i build them so the entrance is right at the bottom of the frames, the same when I build long hives too 😊

[TheMule]

If I'm not mistaken, that's NOT a regular entrance disc. I've bought the same and they are a scaled down version. The large hole is smaller than the original.

But it gets worse:
the "excluder" part has been scaled down too, effectively not letting bees out.

So it works, for a smaller entrance and no excluder.

To give you an idea of the dimensions, instead of 13-14cm like the orginal, they are about 8cm. Also the machining isn't exactly top notch, all edges are very sharp, I filed the round hole the rest I didn't bother since I won't be using them anyway.

The only good thing is that they seems to be steel and they are very very cheap.

As for positioning, well there is indeed a preference I believe for the sides, that is, bees do organize frames based on the distance from the entrance. I'm not sure it's a huge problem for traps, but there's that.

[MinnesotaBeekeeper]

You will see bees moving into tiny holes in buildings. Tom has some points but this one doesn't fit a hard rule.

[DRIECUTHoney]

One inch is fine. I’ve done a handful of cutouts and bees regularly use entrances this small. Even smaller. I think your putting a little to much weight on the entrance size.

[coincollector]

I have a swarm trap in my yard right now that has that same entrance disk and I just had a swarm move in about four days ago. Imam letting them get established a bit before they take the trip to my actual bee yard. Just as you pointed out, it was the design that is the issue and not the materials. The title thumbnail is the biggest mistake that you forgot to mention.

[alsever]

Deer mice can get in if you use 1/2 inch wire!! Bees will NOT use a trap with mice in it. I caught 6 swarms last year and lost 14 traps to bears!

[robertshorthill]

Bees don't care for a huge opening, but something about 1.25" is about ideal.

[williamj.stilianessis]

1. That is a hive body, not a swarm trap. I love your enthusiasm but that sucker is going to be way too heavy to put up in a tree.
2. Dry is great but access and lure are key. Keep it dry certainly, but it's okay to have an opening on the ends rather than the sides. Honestly, the bees don't care.
Think of it like this, cut that body in half along the frames so there are 5 frames in each half and you have built two taps. (Naturally you will need to close in the cut sides.)
Ten feet or more is good but don't go so high that you put yourself in danger while climbing with a ten plus pound box.
A deer stand ladder is perfect and gives you a platform to work on while attaching the trap to the tree.
I've put traps on a fence post only six feet up and caught bees. Keep it out of a traveled areas and camouflage it against prying eyes.
Lures are available commercially but a cotton ball with lemongrass oil just inside the whole is great. You can refresh it once a week till the season is over without taking the trap down.
Fairly good comb works well in conjunction with the oils. Never use old, dark comb!
Good luck.

[gotkittys]

Use old hive boxes. A full deep, floor, and frames. Don't let your feet off the ground, put the boxes where you can reach. NOT UP TREES! Place it in the shade of the tree, the dappled shade is best for catching. That's why they work, not because they are high up. You don't need to do anything but put the box in the beeyard.

[melvillejoubert]

Don't have that problem in south Africa as the bees here will move into a tuna tin sized pole if there holes drilled in them for the wire..As long as the hole is 8mm or bigger it will get bees...African Honey Bees will move into anything..tyres poles .holes in the ground..etc etc..just caught 7 swarms this week in a 4 frame nuc with 22mm holes as entrances...Good luck to you.

[mikesbeesllc]

Check your traps when u re-bait. If paper wasp or mud dobber builds nest in trap you will catch no honey bees.

[bigrig]

a lot of this is not really true my uncle and i have caught bees in small opening entrances, we had old boxes with huge gaps in them, and i have put many swarm traps one foot of the ground and caught swarms, so a lot of catching swarms has to do with location and if there are bees that are going to swarm soon. Usually i catch swarms with no frames in my boxes all i use is swarm commander and bees just come.

[bradbrown]

Or just drill a bigger opening on metal disk?

[tonysicily]

Totally disagree, I put out 4 traps two years ago, 6 last year and had 100% success on ALL the traps. Success is not to do with the entrance type, but rather the fact the hive was badly built and the entrance was badly placed. Where was the landing board?

Silly mistakes, glad the poster learnt from his mistakes