How to remove hot pixels from long exposures

Long exposures can create beautifully smooth clouds and water, but also "hot pixels". You can fix a single single hot pixel with the clone or stamp tool quickly, but what about dealing with hot pixels all over the image? You could spend all day removing them. Thankfully, there is a very quick and simple way you can clean up the image. Learn how in this tutorial.

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[echoauxgen]

Something learned some years ago! Before going out for a shoot, change the date on the camera by the month by two months back or foreword (does not matter) then turn camera off and then wait. The camera will take a dark image and redo the pixels, like dead pixels (white) and hot (red), that will be a click you hear after a few seconds. Then return the time to the correct month and again turn camera off and again you will hear the click of the camera taking a dark image. This is the same as having Noise Reduction turned on after a long exposure of 1 sec or more. Many Many will turn off noise reduction because of time it takes to capture another image, yes twice as long of a capture but many also think it reduces the number of stars in a night capture. The reason for NR being turned off is basically for those doing time lapses and reducing the time between each shot, so if not doing a time lapse leave NR ON! More info photographers send their cameras back to maker or to repair shops to have dead and hot pixels removed and are without a camera for a month or two!!! The above date changing is all the repair shop does but it sits on the self till it can be worked on and you without a camera.and $$$$! Also another way for noise and and pixel repair is to do a time lapse of 10 to 20 images then put in Stacking Software 1. (Free) Sequator stacking software (for PC) and 2. Starry Landscape Stacker for Apple $39 (the top dog) .

[peoplepirate]

hey
can't you even do a Fine Art Architecture tutorial with Lumenzia?

Explain the levels here in the picture step by step?

greetings

[scoobuhhsteve]

Very hopefully tutorial. I love long exposure but always get those darn hot spots from time to time.
Thanks for info and keep up the good work! 🙂

[AndreiDimaReviews]

Thank you so much for this video, I usually cloned pixel by pixel!

[guest]

Are hot pixels / noise an issue with the camera sensor or are they normal? I see 2 red pixles and 1 green on many shots that have high ISO, even if using a short exposure E.g. 1/80 ISO 800 with a photo that is dark

[gabea.]

Very useful, I just used in one of my pictures (11 minutes exposure, hot pixels everywhere). One thing I also used which helped, too, was the Diff (+/) with a 0.5 or 1 pixel radius and Lighter, with a curves adjustment. The added benefit of this was that it took care of some halo introduced by sharpening. Anyway, another tool in my toolbox.

[harishgupta]

and I thought my crop sensor camera was crap.

Thank You for this great video

[SteveStrummerUK]

Wow, great explanation and really useful for someone who's just purchased a 10 stop ND! Love the finished image too Greg.

[mohammadaqib]

what category of these black & white photos are is there any tutorial ?

[jamiemalcolmbrown]

Great work. I have used the dust and scratch filter for star reduction on Milky Way shots. This has given me some techniques to do that in a more targeted way so I can better sculpt my results! Thanks!

[scotty]

Great tutorial, I have an image that I liked but was blighted by hot pixels due to it being a long exposure. Now have a great opportunity to revisit it. Thanks for the video Greg, it is appreciated

[YohannChaplin]

Very interesting process, but wouldn't it be better to take a dark frame?

[bodywise]

Wonderful tutorial. Short to the point.

[BrianPex]

Great vid Greg. You know I’ve had night images and have spent HOURS getting rid of hot pixels. Lol. I’m gonna have to check this out and use it with those long exposures. Nice!!

[oneharry_og]

What program do you use for removing dust spots? Have you done a tutorial on that?

[lauramacky]

Very useful! Thank you! I was a bit lost on using the color blend mode, however.

[gabea.]

Isn't it faster to use on-camera noise reduction? I know, sometimes it's not convenient because the sun is going down too fast or something else, but in general terms, 5 minutes on-camera vs the same (or longer) in Photoshop, knowing that I'll miss some hot pixels... I don't know what I prefer yet.

[DickHoskins]

Would it be possible to use a dark frame used by astrophotographers to remove hot pixels?