Miyabi Birchwood: Seasoned to Burrfection

[snowylucky]

I wish YouTube would allow photos in the comments sections. I applied your recipe with a ratio of 50% pure raw linseed oil, 25% mineral oil, and 25% general wood bowl varnish. I applied 6 coats, allowing 2-3 hours between applications. I then let the knife cured for 2 days before using. The knife is now an exquisite art piece. Thank you for the recommendation. What a game changer. Btw: I also applied your recipe solution to my wooden foosball table handles. They are not as great as the knife, but now they are protected and pop.

[ALWhiteAuthor]

Remember whenever you use a linseed oil based product to dispose of the used cloth properly. Linseed oil soaked cloth can spontaneously combust so you have to put them in a metal container or soak them in water.

[Minion]

I'm so glad I found this video. In the end I used just pure linseed oil for the handle of my MCD5000 knives and the result is just plain beautiful.

The pure oil has some advantages over the mixture shown in the video:
1) there are no chemicals included which might be poisonous
2) it penetrates the wood deeper

There is only one small drawback: Compared to a mixture as shown in the video the pure oil takes longer to dry. I would give it at least 48h. If possible even more, depending on the air humidity where you live.

Anyway, thank you so much for the inspiration! Without this video I never would have thought about oiling the handle of my Miyabi knives.

[Mike-uhgw]

I saw this and had a can of boiled linseed oil sitting on my counter... 100% oil works great. I whetted the handle and let it sink in for maybe a minute then wiped it off with a paper towel. What a difference. I will wait for a week or two and give it another soak. This brings amazing depth and shine out of the wood. If the folks at Miyabi see this video, they would start doing this at the factory.

[raveni]

Thanks for the receipe. This video came up as a suggestion and Im glad I watched it as I have just received the same birchwood handled knives. and was thinking/concerned about the wooden handles eventually staining with everyday use. I have just applied my first coat using the ratios of 40% linseed oil 30% clear mat varnish and 30% mineral turpentine. Mine didn't turn out as dark as yours (which I find quite brilliant) as it is a little closer to the natural/stock look. It did however, bring out more of the grains! This was more good luck than management in that regard. For any Aussies reading this and thinking about doing it, I went to Bunnings and purchased 1L diggers mineral turpentine, 1L Diggers natural (raw) linseed oil and a small can (250ml) of Monocel varnish (interior) mat finish. I made a cups (250ml) worth of the mixture using the ratios (100mls, 75mls, 75mls) I mentioned previously. This amount is heaps and you could probably drops it down 100 to 150 mls in total and have enough for many years worth of applications as you only need a small amount on the end of a microfibre cloth to rub in for each coat. Of course the longevity of the mix would depend on how long it lasts?

[robertwalker]

Just saw this video over the weekend. I have these knives. I also had the stuff sitting in my garage and it never even popped into my head to do this. I did it this evening and wow!

[daemionhorne]

I've been using this knife for close to 4 years now in professional kitchens I love it.

[dougstarkey]

As a knife maker myself, I highly agree with using oils on wood handles. Water on the other hand, is never use it anywhere in the production process. Great video on handle finishing 👍👍

[Technie]

Big piece of advice here as there are quite a few names for linseed oil to include:

Boiled Linseed Oil
Raw Linseed Oil
Double Boiled Linseed Oil
Polymerized Linseed Oil


Starting off with raw linseed oil. Its a good use for cutting boards because it doesn't contain any harmful chemicals that Boiled linseed oil (BLO) has but it dries very slowly (1-2 weeks) depending on coat thickness. Can also be used on knives but once more drying times.

Polymerized or Double Boiled Linseed oil is linseed oil that is truly boiled and placed under a vacuum unlike boiled linseed (I know confusing right) changing its chemical composition decreasing the drying time to -8hours or so WITHOUT adding any chemicals which is the best for cutting boards/ Knife handles OVERALL.

Boiled linseed oil used to be boiled, however now it is just known for having a slew of drying chemicals added to decrease drying times that are toxic and not safe to have on kitchen surfaces that require food prep or consumption.
BLO is really only good to apply to knife handles in the kitchen environment since it will dry a LOT faster than raw linseed oil and not be in direct contact with food. Keep in mind however that you will still be in in-direct contact with the knife with your knife hand which will also later on handle food which would technically contaminate the food so it falls under the users own discretion whether its safe or not to apply such coating.


Linseed oil is classified as a hardening oil meaning that the oil will crystallize over time forming a protective barrier.

There are other oils out there such as Tung Oil which is another great long lasting natural oil but apparently has a slight smell and teak which is pretty much BLO but named differently.

[ohasis]

That looks bloody great and I'm so glad you made this - I've been absolutely petrified about what to do with the handle on mine, consequently have barely used it.
I'll be into it tomorrow so once again, thanks sport and stay strong.

[steveledbetter]

Paint stores sell a product called Japan Dryer. It will help the linseed oil harden quickly with just a few drops added. It will fully cure and still completely absorb into the wood, not sit on top. Avoid polyurethane at all cost. Handle looks great.

[SK-szcl]

Glad to see that you’re back, Ryky. You got me hooked on collecting chef knives and your reviews have strongly influenced my purchases. Keep up the good work!

[txhypnotist]

My Favorite knife hands down. I really like the improved version of the handle. Surprised that Miyabi does not finish the handles this good from the start.

[chefknivesenthusiast]

I just treated my Miyabi 5000MCD Birchwood Kiritsuke with a mixture quite like yours (50% linseed oil, 25% mineral spirits and 25% wood varnish) and it turned out great! Indeed looks even better than the handle straight out of the box. I also applied the same mixture to the Maple wood handle of my Ryusen Fukakuryu Sujihiki knife and also that turned out fantastic. Now I'm going to do the same with my Saya's. Thanks for this video!

[vladimirchalkevitch]

I have set of Miyabi Knives . This mix for handle Miyabi Knives working very good. Thank you. Your channel is great

[winstonli]

this is the first good knife I ever had back in high school. I use pure organic unfiltered flaxseed oil for the handle after I polished it to 6000 grit and it still feels great.

[everydaypatriot]

The beauty of hand-rubbed wood finishes is unsurpassed... best overall form and function.

[DClaville]

So glad to see you back keep up the good work, . Hope all is well :)

[samdidomenico]

Bought the birch wood after watching many of ur previous videos and used it in a professional setting for about 4 months and just seasoned it following your guide thanks ahain ryky

[SeriousPoo]

Ryky, this video is awesome. I've applied the first coat on my set and am floored with how beautiful they're turning out. Thanks for the great ideas and clear step-by-step instructions.