Soldering How To Part 1 - Finding the best solder for Your Projects

This is the first part of a multi part series on choosing the very best solder for our applications and learning how to solder. All of the basics will be covered to help you become a skilled solderer with the best solder, equipment, and techniques.

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Feel free to check AggressiveFun out at the following links (liking, subscribing, following, and commenting is encouraged and appreciated!!):

The following are Amazon Affiliate links to the equipment and materials that were used to produce this video. Amazon Affiliate links help us keep this blog up and running so if you are interested in making a purchase, please use one of the links below:

Solder:
Kester 275 No Clean Core K100LD Alloy .020" 24-9574-7610 (Favorite-No lead/no silver, AggressiveFun Package)

Kester 245 No Clean Core 63/37 .015" 24-6337-8853 Solder
(Favorite-My all time favorite, AggressiveFun Package)

Kester 44 Rosin Core 63/37 .010" 24-6337-0001 Solder
(Favorite-Smallest diameter, AggressiveFun Package)

Kester 44 Rosin Core 63/37 .031" .8mm 24-6337-0027 Solder
(Favorite-Most Popular, AggressiveFun Package)

Kester 44 Rosin Core 63/37 .020" 24-6337-0010 Solder
(AggressiveFun Package)

Kester 44 Rosin Core 63/37 .015" 24-6337-0007 Solder
(AggressiveFun Package)

Kester 44 Rosin Core 63/37 .025" 24-6337-0018 Solder
(AggressiveFun Package)

Kester 44 Rosin Core 63/37 .050"(1.27mm) 24-6337-0053 Solder
(AggressiveFun Package)

Alpha Telecore Plus No-Clean Solder Wire, P2, .032", SAC305
(Full 1lb Spool)

Equipment:
AmScope 7X-45X Simul-Focal Stereo Lockable Zoom Microscope on Dual Arm Boom Stand.

AmScope MU500-CK 5.0 MP USB Microscope Camera with Software and Calibration Kit, Compatible with Windows and Mac

AmScope LED-144W-ZK White Adjustable 144 LED Ring Light Illuminator for Stereo Microscope & Camera.

AmScope EG-SM Microscope Eyepiece Eyeshields or Eye-guards.

Video Equipment:
Canon VIXIA HF R700 (the model I use for video).

Canon VIXIA HF R800 (newer version).

Replacement Li-ion Battery and car charger adapter.

SanDisk Ultra 64GB microSDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter (Great deal!)

Sony 64GB SD Memory Card (the exact card I use)

Targus 3-Way Panhead Bubble Level Tripod (the exact one I used).

Canon VIXIA HF R700 Bundle deal with memory card, tripod, carry bag, extra battery, etc.

[Aggressivefun]

What's your favorite solder? Do you agree/disagree with mine?

[enigmaticmf]

Probably THE most comprehensive rundown of Solder/flux differences I've seen so far. Even went out and bought 3 new no-clean solders to replace my recent 3 "44" solder-fluxes. Now I have enough solder to last me 3 or 4 lifetimes at a minimum. :)

[alfonso]

Congratulations for the video, I would like to know which is the best tin in absolute that is as shiny as possible the alloy 63/37

[TheAMGReviewers]

my favourite solder is the only one ive used lol, Sn-Ag0.3-Cu0.7 0.6mm lead-free. it reqiures higher temps and you feel resistance when feeding, but i like that. but might look into actual no clean core.

[michael.a.covington]

Kester K100LD is serving me well. It is SnCu with some bismuth and nickel. It does need a slightly hotter iron and more flux than SnPb. I find that it hardens with a smooth, shiny surface.

[theoldbigmoose]

Kester 44 63/37 in 0.030 has been my favorite for over 50 years... what do you recommend for those few instances when you need amore reactive flux than 44?

[oldsoul]

Being I'm just starting to get into this electronics hobby literally (filling cart on Amazon as I'm typing lol)

I'm thinking for a general purpose through hole and surface mount I need a spool of Kester 63/37 .031 no clean rosin core? Am i close? Lol. Fill in the blanks or maybe point me to the exact spool that would work best for me.

I hope to be dabbling in some of those little electronic soldering kits to perfect my solder technique as well as work up to bigger projects like drones or whatever the bigger kits are.

I don't think I'll be doing any high end audio stuff so no silver needed lol

I'm trying to avoid buying flux or any extra stuff that I will probably never use.

Thanks in advance!

[ChiefBrianIrons]

Hi there I wondering since kester 63 37 solder solidifies faster compared to 60/40. If you need to desolder using a solder sucker is not not better to go with 60/40 as it gives you more time and chance of removing old soldier compared to 63/37. If you need to desolder which one would make it easier.

[richardszabo]

Thanks a lot for this informative video! I use many type of solder, but i never try "no clean" type yet. I love Kester rosin core, leaded solders, but I must clean the board after the soldering. I will try "Kester no clean type solder" in the future!

[markphilpot]

I don’t know from lead free and in my experience, since 1979, there are only two standard formulations. Sn63 which denotes a pure eutectic tin/lead solder. The flux core I stand by and the critical circuit industries utilize is RMA, Rosin Mildly Activated. This produces the best appearance, handles vibrations, physical and mechanical stresses, G forces and thermal inversions without failure. In Kester, the solder is designated as 282 which is the highest grade of RMA cored solder in a tin/lead alloy. Thing about a pure eutectic is like you stated, two states only, liquid or solid. Why RMA, just for the reasons mentioned above. The flux percentage in this solder is 3.3% and that is specified for critical circuit work. I understand you dislike cleaning. Doesn’t thrill anyone working under J STD 004 level 3 either, but leaving flux residue is unacceptable when soldering to critical circuit standards. It was like that under DOD STD 2000-1 when I learned it in 1986. Using extra flux, as it is referred to, enhances the quality of the end product by offering a cleaner joint with enhanced spreadability and flow characteristics for the solder. It is more labor intensive, but the results justify the time from a reliability, consistency and quality standpoint. It is about saving life and safeguarding assets. When your work holds human life and capital government assets in the balance as well as mission accomplishment, there is no other way. Cleaning a PCB so no residue is a small price to pay for enhanced reliability, consistency and the highest quality work. Yes, I believe it was then and is now a necessity. It’s also a pride in workmanship ideal. Lazy is as lazy does, Forrest Gump! Mediocre has no place in soldering excellence. Kester, AIM and Alpha Metals have been used for this critical use. I have used these three and Multicore, formally Ersin, exclusively for decades. Sn63 or Sn62, 62%tin/36%lead/2%silver are both pure eutectic alloys. Any of the four brands have proven themselves for decades. What you use is your choice. Using or not using flux is also your choice. RMA has been mistakenly called No Clean flux. This is not true under the standards I mentioned. Cleaning all residue removes any possibility of moisture being attracted due to residual flux on the PCB. Failure avoidance starts with the solder tech. I use liquid RMA flux, Kester 186. This is brand matched to my solder’s flux core. It’s a chemistry match by brand making it ideal. The other brands work best with their brands of flux matched to their brand’s solder flux core. Consistent, reliable, repeatable results with this combination. Only using 99+% isopropyl alcohol to clean with. Only using DW, distilled water or DDW, deionized distilled water for the sponge. Using only brass wool to clean the tip. Never cross contaminating leaded with no lead solder in use or on tips. Lots to learn guys, lots to learn before you can play big league soldering. Learning is worth the experience. Stay safe mates!😊👍🏻😷

[rubenmejia]

Man, I wish I would've found your channel earlier! I just bought a couple spools of kester just to try out, while I don't regret the purchase I definitely probably got enough to last me a life time unless if things change where I'll be soldering alot more. Awesome video explanations. I just watched both parts and had a recent argument with my friends. I do believe that it doesn't go bad, like when have you ever seen metal go bad?! Lol jk ive seen examples but still solder definitely does last I found my old roll of radioshack 100g spool that I lost during a move so I bought some cheap stuff off amazon and its alright to terrible quality but since then upgrading to the kester I love their stuff! The only issue I have with the no clean 245 is that it spits a lot and smokes more than my 44 does. Im in the market in giving the 282 & 285 a try. What are your thoughts on those. I was intrigued on reading the "WW" in the 282, which I believe is the white water rosin. Is it really that much better or stronger than regular rosin? Thanks by the way I'm using the .31 diameter since its been the best bang for my buck and also the sizing isn't too bad. I like the .25 which is close and would use more of but with the .31 I use a little less. It seems the smaller the diameter the more they charge I figured it would of been the other way around.

[monz]

Nice video, the first I've seen that shows clearly how 63 37 behaves. My favorite is multicore/loctite - I'd like to try kester but it's very expensive here in Europe. For the hobbyist on a budget I suggest "super solder wire", a Taiwanese brand, that's what I started with. Great quality/price and they also make a 2% silver mix branded as Pro'skit, you can find it in another solder comparison here on youtube. Thumbs up for the video!

[WilliamVG]

I have a graphics card PCB and I'm about to solder a 6mmx6mm Mosfet onto the board with no clean flux. I'm planning on using a mini hot air station to solder. Can you recommend a solder? Any reputable Sn63/Pb36 rosin core solder will be fine? Thanks.

[stoof]

I have a 1lb roll of kester 60/40 RA 3% .031 and an aim 60/40 2% RA .032 ive had for a while and i hear they have alot of new ones but kester 44 used to be the benchmark.
I dont think ill buy anymore but it seems they have alot more flux out now im curious about. And curious if i need different solder lol.
Ive never had to clean the flux off the board with kester 44 and never had a fail. 🤷🏻‍♂️ But reading "you need to clean" now.
Also none of my spools have date coses either. Guess its good forever haha

[topQuark]

I've tried kester and multicore, and I've found multicore to be shinier but kester flux seems to be more active. For 6337, kester joints are shiny, but multicore joints are bright shiny and forms a highly polished surface.
When soldering through hole, kester solder with 3% 44 or 245 flux flows from the solder side to the component side through the through hole better, and forms a good fillet on both sides consistently. Multicore with 5 core 3% 362 flux does not form fillet on the component side as consistently and is more sensitive to technique, but the plated holes are still consistently filled.
Personally I still prefer multicore as the joints look better, and if I need the picture perfect fillet on both sides through hole soldering, I just add a bit of flux.
I have around 5kg of multicore solder stockpiled and I would not trade it for anything.

[genaishivatov]

Good solders are Kester, MBO, Broquetas, Chemet, Asahi, Felder. Not bad are Alpha, Stannol, Loctite, Duratool, as well as polish Cynel and soviet POS. Naturally, this is all 63/37 (to the extreme - 60/40).

[travishanson]

I would like to purchase the 63/37 245 in a variety of thicknesses to try them out. How do I make a request for the thicknesses I would like to try? All of your listings seem to only have one thickness even though you mentioned being able to get a combination of thicknesses to try out in your video. Thank you!

[EVModules]

It seems like you deal primarily with SMD components, which may be the basis of this informative video. Are there any recommendations when it comes to TH components, especially board connectors? I dip most of my TH components with fantastic results that requires zero cleaning BUT I still have to hand solder other large components and I currently use Kester Sn60Pb40 .040” (24-6040-0039). Trouble is, I have to clean the flux off of course which I hate. How can I make it happen with the least amount of effort?

[tuunaes]

Of course optimal would be having couple different thicknesses, but 0.031/0.8mm wire is very good "golden middle/one size for all" for through hole soldering.
With little practise+steady hand it's easy to give right amount for small joints and it's also comfortable for quite big through hole joints...
In which significantly thinner wires would feel like you're going to end feeding also fingers into joint and slow down work.

[strawhatsam]

Do you have experience with 63/37 - 275 solder? Any difference from 63/37 - 245 in terms of amount of residue, stickiness, and joint quality?