Ford F150 6R60 & 6R80 Transmission Fluid Leak Bulkhead Sleeve Repair

This is the Cheapest & Best alternative to fill the transmission-
You can buy this sleeve kit at a great price here-
Here is the Suction Gun I Recommend-
Mercon SP Fluid can be bought Here-
Mercon LV can be bought here-
In this video I show you how to fix the common fluid leak from the bulkhead connector on the 6r80 & 6R60 transmission.
BE SURE TO PUSH IN ON NEW SLEEVE AND THEN LOCK IT IN OR THERE WILL BE ELECTRICAL ISSUES WITH THE TRANS. IT SHOULD BE QUITE EASY TO PUSH THAT LOCKING TAB IN.

[nickrobinson]

Sir, if I could I would give you a giant hug right now! 7am found a puddle under the truck after I started it, found it leaking from this connector and thought it was going to be a huge job! Thought it was going to be one of those days. Thank you for all your videos on the 2010 Fords (F150). She getting old and needs some TLC and your videos really help me out! THANK YOU!

[colehaverhals]

I'm going to emphasize on the step where you are putting the new sleeve in, make sure you are putting good pressure on it while pushing clip up. It can be a bit tricky to find that spot so work with it. NEVER try and hammer or force the white clip in. Also white clip will not go in if the bulkhead sleeve isn't inserted. Great video as always!

[lesljr]

In my opinion, this should be done when doing a fluid & filter change. The part is only $20 and the pan has be dropped anyway. Wish I had known this before I did my fluid change. Great video. Very helpful.

[johnhengen]

This video saved me a lot of money, thank you for making it.  One thing I did was to make sure I had the sleeve in correctly before putting the pan back on. I'm really glad  I did because it was not all the way in the first time.  I was so sure it was that I almost didn't check.  Glad I did or I would of had to take the pan off and redo it.  I checked by turning the ignition on and looking on dash for error codes, which there was.  I then went back and pulled the sleeve out and tried again, second time no codes.  Then I put the pan back on.

[dennishodson]

I wish I had seen this video sooner. With a large trans puddle found under the Expedition, I pulled up my favorite "go to" Ford repair video -FTMULOCO and did the complete Trans fluid drain, replace filter and fluid. Went Perfect with your Videos. Only a slight burn checking the final fluid level after warming fluid. (I failed to follow the OvGlove recommendation. The leak I'm almost positive, was from the bulkhead sleeve, but with 120, 000 k, the fluid and filter change was definitely needed. No leaking now though. Probably a cleaner and cooler running trans helped. You are "the Man" for FORD Repairs!!
I also did the complete Phaser changeout "per your instructions this past June. No problems and running SILENT. Thanks for the videos

[joshuavasquez]

Was quoted $800 bucks and a three day turnaround by the dealer... did it myself for $150 over the course of a morning. Sleeve wanted to be a pain but some patience got it in place. Thanks for the video!

[fordmanmark]

Easy Peasy, , , Went as smooth as you showed, , , Huge Thanks. I measured the fluid that drained out. 9 quarts for a 2010 f150 5.4 6r80.... 100 bucks parts and fluid.. Great video series.

[less]

Couldn't get new connector to lock in so I swapped the orings to the old connector and it worked. No more leaks. yayyyy. Thank you for your tech videos.

[mijarez]

Super great info, Thanks so much. My mechanic (ex-mechanic) wanted to drop the trans and disassemble it. He said it would be between $800 and $1000 to fix.

[cochiloco]

Very helpful video, I just replaced it on my 2004 BMW 545i and the leaks stopped, you help me to save at least $1200, thanks a lot.

[jeremiahjohnson]

Just got through with this repair in the driveway on an '09 f-150 109, 000 miles. Fordtechmakuloco, without you taking the time to make this video, this repair would likely have cost us $300 to $400 at the mechanic shop, thanks a million.
Only problem we had was the backside of the seal, (the black and white clip part) was a little stubborn to get back in, needed a little extra convincing that it belonged there. Thanks again.

[EFX]

Did the repair this past weekend. No lift; jacked up the front. First I drained the fluid. Bought Airpower America FloTool 5060TSMI Topsider Extractor to do the job, but upon further review the HORUSDY Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit for Gas Oil and Liquids would have worked just as good for $50 less. See below. Dropping the pan was the most difficult part, as the six rear pan bolts were tough to get to; you will need a u-joint adapter. Also, if I was doing this again, I would go ahead and replace the 21 pan bolts with
new ones. They were pretty rusty, and while in there do it right so you won't have problems if you go in again. Since the fluid was already removed, taking the pan down was not that messy; i had a large flat drip pan propped up on a milk crate to catch the pan and the little fluid as I was removing it. Releasing the while clip and pulling out the connector was a breeze. Prior to removal I verified the depth of it as shown in one of the other vids with a 6 Inch 15 cm Pocket Ruler Flexible Precision Stainless Steel Ruler with Detachable Clips Stainless Steel Pocket Clip Scale Gauge Ruler Metric British System, it was 15mm on the ruler. As many others have noted, it was tough to install the new connector. I had to cover the connector end with a metal cap and use a pry bar to seal it. Verified the depth of the connector with the ruler, and the white clip snapped up into place. I installed a new filter while it; when removing the old filter the orange seal on the stem from the old filter was stuck in the hole and I had to pry it out. When I went to fill it up, I started pumping fluid in with a LubriMatic 55-001 4CC Fluid Pump for Quart Size Bottles. As others have noted, it doesn't fit the qt bottles, and quite honestly it was very time consuming and difficult to do laying on your back. I ran a piece of hose from the engine area into the tranny, fitted a funnel to it, and filled from there. I unfortunately spilled my bucket of old fluid before I had a chance to measure it, so I put in 6 qts. No check engine and it ran smooth. The next day I checked it and it was way overfilled; I ended up removing 1.25 qt with the hand pump which was easier and quicker to use than the Transfer Pump Kit. I have the Summit Racing aftermarket tranny fill tube kit ordered and will install as this will make checking the fluids and any top offs way easier. I hope this helps someone.

[Macknifica]

I just wanted to say thanks for posting this video it saved me a ton of money amd also another thanks to all the commenter's that said you have to give the gasket a tap to get it to seat correctly to get the tab in.

[dunkletx]

Did this procedure on a 2010 Ford F150 and this video was perfect. The new bulkhead sleeve needs a good even push top bottom and sides because the new Orings actually fit snug forming a tight seal. After that the locking mechanism locks in place perfect with ease. I had noticed the bulkhead weeping a drop of oil when I was replacing my O2 sensors. The O2 sensor video was another great video by FordTechMakuloco that I watched having no problems changing out my 2 up and 2 downstream sensors.

[chuntz]

I disconnected the connector and pushed the sleeve hoping it would sit better and reconnected the connector. Still had the the check engine light on the console but cleared the code with a code reader. Its been working fine ever since. Thanks for all the help

[chucvadj]

Dude!
Thanks so much for making this video and the other supporting videos.  I would not have even tried and would have just  paid the dealer to the job, but your video was very clear and demystified the process.  Hopefully setting the fluid level to the bottom of the cross-hatch area like you said when the engine is running and not at full temperature works.
Again, thanks for taking the time and effort to do these videos,
  Mike

[ShadeTree_Certified]

This came in super handy on my 6L80 gm transmission. Just got it back from rebuild and shop won’t warranty it. This saved me having to take it back in!

[rolandgutierrez]

I just want to say that this video is one of the best videos out there it helps with a very expensive looking problem that is really simple to fix so thank you guys so much for the info!

[danstock]

Lol it took me over an hour to reseat the bulkhead lol !!! ( the white clip did not want to push up ) U make it look so easy lol then when I went to start the truck the gears wouldn’t move !!
Thank god I saw your other video !
Bottom line I removed the harness and reinstalled it again and it worked Thank you !
I thought I was going to have to drop the pan again :(

[ED-jfmb]

Just got done doing this job on my 09 f150. I ran into the same problem with the clip not going back up after inserting the sleeve. Don’t try to force the clip, if it’s not going up it means the sleeve isn’t in fully. What I did is with a long narrow peice of wood and a mallet I gave the sleeve a few taps carefully and that did it, Up went the clip. I put everything back together and just like that saved 500 bucks.