My Top 'Functional' CR-10 Upgrades

Taking a look at some of the top "functional" upgrades on The 3D Workshop's Creality CR-10.

Get your own CR-10:

US Version:

Upgraded CR10S:

Upgrades:

Unfortunately after much discussion with the supplier, he has informed me that he will no longer be selling these plates. I am working with him to try and get access to them so that I can get them to you guys! He said it was a logistical nightmare for him trying to manage the orders, but I feel terrible recommending it and then learning this news so I will do everything I can to regain access to them for you guys!

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Thanks Everyone! Happy Printing!

Music:
Steve Void Syence - We Wont Leave You
Taska Black - Nothing Lasts feat Pauline Herr

[TheChalansillo]

the good old times, 3D printing was not for everyone

[jpin]

Nice bit of engineering ... Love it! I have the Cr-10 4 and it has had to have many upgrades to be dependable as well. I have printed life sized helmets etc.. and they can take 150 hours to print. The issue that I had it the heat build up on my steppers. When you add your tube to your top filament feeder you will benefit from the upgraded [all black] stepper and likely will have to put a 40mm fan below your extruder stepper. I sandwiched a high quality fan (with delrin blades) to the E stepper using one motor screw that is longer and a spacer so that it is not touching the base. It blows upwards away from the bed and I have not had an issue. However!!! When I add any tubing, guides or even distance to my "Feed" I have to Double my E steps or prints are crap. Plus it resets every time I turn it off. (Even though it is in my G code script; it does not work unless manually entered Every Time (ie. Control >Motion >E Steps = 193.70 Yes mine is that high when I added a 20mm guide tube to my Bowden. And I occasionally have to lightly oil that tube separately as well.
Be sure you check E steps every time my Friend (even if one doesn't add tubing folks are often shocked at how much this matters on even a new machine (calibrating E-steps :)
Looking forward to printing / liking your stuff on Thingiverse ... Jeff

[longlivingdude]

You can simply wash the glue off the mirrors with a bit of hot water.

[randa]

build plate is probably PEI ...i bought one and LOVE IT! vids say to spray with isopropyl alcohol at base of print when finished while STILL HOT then when cools it pops right off ...and yes it does!!!! paid bout 30-35 for PEI sheet and 3m sticky sheet to adhear it to a piece of mirror . wish i had done the flexible magnetic sheet back setup but alas still v happy with it .

[robertolosi]

NIce mods, have you also increased the Y axis lenght? interesting mod, could you give us some tips?

[WhereNerdyisCool]

I really like that webcam arm, thanks for posting this...I have a C270 too. Now to find a place to stick the Pi3!

[TweakTechNow]

Good that you found a bed surface that works for you. But did you know that luke warm water washes the gluestick right off? Anyways, I'm using the ultrabase now. Just use a damp rag to clean the hot surface right before the print starts. No glue required.

[jdbiz]

Beautiful Machine! I bought some modified CR10's that were set up for TPU. I didn't get a demo from seller and I got 3 machines with 70 plus rolls of filament, mostly TPU. My question is this: He set up a cleaning brush for tip and it sits beneath the table height when you home out machine. I tried running my first print and the head ran into the side of the glass table so I had to stop it. Can you help me figure out how to get the z value to be higher? Can this be achieved on setting z offset on machine control box or does it need g code in start up routine in Cura? Any help appreciated. My extruder is red in color with an X on it. Love your set up! Jeff

[jarrod-smith]

Nice mods! I need to do the control box stand and leds. I am surprised you aren't controlling the printer with the Pi though. Highly recommended!

[tonyaclark]

The build plate is G-10 phynolic reinforced resin. It comes in pretty much every color but the color in the video is natural. I am sure they choose natural because it is the cheapest.

[nerys]

that build plate is called G10 (or something like it). its fiberglass.

[lanceking]

JP great video. I am assembling my CR-10 this week and this is my first 3D printer. But I want to start modding it right away. So where are the links you mentioned? I want to get the thumb wheels for leveling and that bed you are using. No tape, spray or glue sounds awesome.

[kieranpat]

Another thing you can get for a glass bed replacement is a 12"x12"x1/4" piece of borosilicate glass from McMaster Carr, best 50$ upgrade for my 3d printer. Another is a 120v heated bed, 60c in 50 seconds

[matiasloisa]

you could add one of those wifi switches to be able to remotely shut off the power suppy, in case you see a mess on the nanny cam

[realsoftgames]

@2:55 use octopi instead if you have a raspberry pi and the webcam. you can start/stop prints on the fly through aweb browser and also look at your prints like this.

[thehappyextruder]

Nice Mods ! looking forward to the future videos !

[PatriotPaulUSA]

Bummer on the buildplates not being able to ship. It was the one thing I was looking forward to checking about ordering. I have used mirrors w/glue but and so far PrintinZ flex skins work the best and I just converted 2 CR10s to metal flexplates of 26 gauge sheetmetal and epoxied 18 - N52 Neodynms on the bottom of the bed :) now I can take the metal plate and flex it if it doesn't want to pop off the PrintinZ on top of the 26ga sheetmetel

[runforitman]

How are you able to view good frame rate video on your Pi?
I have a B and it can hardly do 5 fps with a usb webcam
I really want to do the nanny cam but I don’t know how to do that

[rickb]

Any update on the build plate surface? Did it turn out to be FR-4?

[Manu-fkct]

"everything sticks" and you see 2 parts bending very hard LMAO