BAD VNT ACTUATOR

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Bad VNT actuator , TDI, ALH
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I do not understand how there are so awkward!

That actuator works perfectly. Without motor load, when increasing the pressure in the manifold the rod must give way, and even at high revolutions it must relax almost completely. This type of turbo, lacks a "discharge valve", and the overpressure is regulated by the inclination of turbine blades. I hope I have clarified things, and not to put more confusion.

ELAurigaVolador
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Actuator is fine. Vnt control ring, rollers and blades will be covered in soot and oil, gluing it together. You need to remove turbo assembly, remove chra, disassemble clean and rebuild vnt hot side.

pinkynse
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I've not done anything latey..lol
I've been so busy with work and training and a few weekends away at NHRA races, I've not driven it much.
But I will say this, all the times I've driven it lately and over the last two months or so, it's not limped again..Weird!! It's such a random thing..Mostly on the Hwy. I don't know what to think.

protectandswerve
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I have the exact same issue, apart from mine is being caused by carbon build up and not the actual actuator

chrissalter
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Worn spring in actuator, doesnt create enough opposite force to counteract vacuum and force down actuator lever..

nikoladjordjevic
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I have a similair problem, turbo seems to be spooling fine till 2000rpm, but 2500-3000 its spiking/jerking, and if I drive uphill it starts to jerk really bad (the car itself doesnt jerk its only the sound of the turbo itself), and if I apply more gas, it just goes into limp mode, ive replaced boost solenoid, and diesel filter so far, and it improved a lot, but still the same thing .

MyGameSucks
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Never done anything with it yet. It could be a few different things according to a few people I've talked to. Bad N75 valve, Clogged turbo vains, my fuel cut off on the Injection pump (I'm getting a code for that), Or bad / leaking vacum hoses. Honestly I don't have time to mess with it. I wished I could find someone to diagnose and repair for me in the Atlanta area.

protectandswerve
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VNT actuator was $65 ish shipped. I've spent at least $400-$500 so far on parts. Ugh!!
My friend does work for VW and does most of the work on it. Doesn't seem like there are any actual TDI specialist that work there. New vacum lines and a new check valve near the N75 is next to try..After that, I guess I'll have to pull and clean the turbo.

protectandswerve
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I got a problem with my golf mk3 TDI when I drive it on the motorways or go over 60-70 MPH the turbo cuts out and there's no power left, I plugged it on to the diagnostic machine and it came bk with 00575 code I changed the egr valve and n75 boost control but still the same thing please help thanks

Fifthgear
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Still haven't fixed mine. New N75 valve, New 109 relay, New coolant temp sensor, New #4 glow plug and a new Glow plug harness and I'm still getting these codes (P1538 Fuel Cut-off valve -N109 Intermittent and P0674 Cyl. 4 glow plug circuit Intemittent). And on occassion I get this one - P0245 Turbo/Super Charger Wasteg.Solonoid A Low / Intermittent. What do you / ya'll think my problem is? Starting to think I may have an ECU issue or something.

protectandswerve
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That sux! I've wondered about my turbo as well but that wouldn't explain the fuel cut off valve or glow plug codes... Plus I've had mine go IN and OUT and then IN and OUT of limp in a matter of seconds on the hwy. or excellerating, like it is some sort of valve / electrical signal being interupted. I am leaning toward ECU / ECM issues or connection. I've read that some have had ecu's replaced to correct these issues. Let me know on that turbo. BTW, how much did a new turbo cost? Thanks!

protectandswerve
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This can be bad n75 vacuum vale, doesnt release vacuum when dont need pressure.

jucwashere
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What does cause low boost or overboost?

sammcharis
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I will change VNT actuator tomorrow, hopefully it solves this. dont know if its a coincidence, but it all started after heavy rain, could be something electrical

MyGameSucks
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See my post above... I've replaced a lot of parts so far and it's still going into limp mode ( Replaced N75, Glow plug #4 and Glow plug harness, New MAF Sensor, New 109 Relay, New Coolant Temp Sensor, Swapped in two used relays for the Glow plug circuit #53 & #100 relays) I just ordered a new VNT actuator for my turbo. When I get it on and if that doesn't work, the only thing else I know to try is replace all my vacum lines.

protectandswerve
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So, any results from the new turbo? After doing a little more research and asking questions of other TDI owners, I was advised to order a new VNT actuator for my stock turbo. I ordered it and it should be here in 4-5 days. I sure hope it fixes my problem. If not, Next I will try replacing all the vacum lines.

protectandswerve
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Well I just replaced my VNT Actuator and drove it today. Totally a waste of money and time. It went into Limp Mode within just a few miles. Switching from 1st to 2nd gear (low rpm / low boost) and it Limped. Mine is going to have to be something related to my P1538 Fuel Cut Off valve open circuit / ground intermittent code I'm getting. Electrical I guess but I have not clue where to look.

protectandswerve
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Hi everyone. I owned a 2006 SSangyong kyron and I had the same problems for more than a year, I took the car to different testers and many mechanics told me that the tester looked bad egr, but after consulting many mechanics and I did not finish. only checked some parameters and found that the supply voltage at n75 does not fluctuate at all remains at the maximum voltage. now what can be the problem? Check if you do not have the same problem.

szasziuliu
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No need to rev the engine, just pull the vac pipe off and on while at idle - VNT should move to full extent of range.

dopiaza
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your vnt actuator is not bad. the vnt assembly inside the turbo is full of carbon. remove turbo, clean vnt, reinstall.

mjt-ewrs