What Ryan F9 Did Not Tell You About Motorcycle RPM

Welcome to another exciting episode of Rembo's motorcycle insights! In this video, we're diving deep into the world of engine RPM and carbon buildup – two crucial factors that impact your motorcycle's performance and longevity. If you're a motorcycle enthusiast who loves the thrill of the ride, this video is a must-watch!

🔥 Topics Covered:

Understanding Carbon Buildup: Learn why carbon buildup occurs in engines and how it can affect your motorcycle's power and efficiency.

Low RPM Operation: Discover why running your bike at low RPMs might contribute to carbon buildup and how it can impact your horsepower.

High RPM Operation: Find out how pushing your engine to higher RPMs can help prevent carbon buildup and maintain cleaner pistons.

Balancing Performance and Longevity: Understand the delicate balance between getting the most power and ensuring your engine's long-term health.

Factors to Consider: Explore why the optimal RPM range varies depending on your motorcycle's design, engine type, and intended usage.

Additional Engine Issues: Uncover how carbon buildup can affect other crucial engine components and overall efficiency.

🚀 Conclusion:

Maintaining the right RPM range is a key factor in optimizing your motorcycle's performance and lifespan. Join Rembo as we unravel the intricate connection between engine RPM and carbon buildup – giving you the insights you need for smarter riding choices.

Don't forget to hit that thumbs up button if you found this video informative, and make sure to subscribe for more exciting content that fuels your motorcycle passion! Ride safe, stay curious, and keep that rubber side down. Until next time, this is Rembo signing off.

[RemboUSMC]

Blow out the carbon or let it accumulate?

[dug_c]

Ryan makes an important key statement near the end of his video: "... Never lug your engine." I think it's okay to use the low RPMs during low power demands. But if you need to scoot, downshift with your boot. Great video. Thanks!

[bryanbrowning]

I grew up riding two stroke street bikes, and my Dad taught me to never just cruise down the highway for endless miles at a leisurely rpm, but occasionally downshift and let it rev up to blow out the carbon. He said that two strokes(of that era) were built to change rpm, like an mx bike that never held a constant rpm, but was “cycled” up and down the rev range. Plus, it was fun as a young rider to downshift and hear the engine howl out of the expansion chambers!

[ChadHargis]

Load should also be considered. Low RPM under very small throttle openings (or coasting) isn't going to cause an issue. The RPM you ride at depends largely on the situation. Riding aggressively, I keep my RPMs in the upper half of the rev range. Cruising around not using much throttle, I keep them lower. If I need to speed up, I don't just grab a big handful of throttle and let the bike lug...I downshift.

I do the same in my car...which is even more critical as it's turbocharged.

[deanproctor]

I agree 110%. From my ATV, motorcycle, dirt bike, snowmobile, work van and personal vehicle…. They all have different engines and each one has its own happy RPM range.

[elifarrow]

If there's one thing you should take away from Ryan’s video it's “You paid for the whole speedometer, so use the whole speedometer.”

[awabac]

Thank you for this video. I’m still new. After F9s video I started pushing the rpms on my Versys 650. Then I watched my fuel economy go in the garbage. Not only was your video the balance that I needed, but I have to give props to the comments. Just as informative. Feel like I just had a day in class.

[johnking]

Definitely depends on the bike. I had a Ninja 250 with a 14, 000 rpm redline. It required 3-4k just to get moving from a light and usually needed about 6k to feel happy at a steady speed. Highway cruising in 6th gear meant 8-9k at 70-75 mph. It seemed to just love to scream to 13k now and then under hard acceleration.

[prototype]

You're completely right, I was riding my first motorcycle very slow and carefully, then I started fouling the spark plugs, the second time I took it to the mechanic he told me "this is NOT a moped, you need to rev it out sometimes to clear the carbon out" I took his advice and never had a problem since \m/ (Bike was an 88' Yamaha FZR) btw

[happycamperjack]

I thought the rule of thumb is pretty straight forward:

“Ride in lowish rpm (usually 2.5k to 5k depending on the bike) when cruising, shift down before you want to accelerate away so you don’t lug the engine.”

[cloric]

Here in Europe we call it an Italian tune up.
In general after driving/riding at lower rpm, allow your engine to breath.
they could do with what we call,
the Italian tune up,
A good few minutes of giving the engine a spanking.

Do this with good maintenance schedule and quality oil/parts,
Engines will sing on for way longer.

[peterdoe]

Nice discussion. What I used to do was not to rev the motor until fully warmed up. Bought my 1st BMW R 75/5 with 98.000 km on the clock. Had to change the pistons at about 125.000 km's. Rode it until 230.000 on the clock. (Was afraid for the chain that is running the timing. Later on learned, that this chain is engineered to last a 500.000 km's)
Long distance rides also help. Putting on 1600km (or more) in one single weekend made the thing purr like a cat, afterwards.

[DragoniteMotoJP]

He doesn't suggest you redline the engine all the time.
As put at the end of the video "you paid for the whole tachometer so use the whole tachometer " as in to say very the rmp. Up to the top and down to idle.
That is what every bike is made for. The manufacturer has already taken care of the different engine types for you by having a specific redline for each bike.

Not trying to be mean, but this videos title and thumbnail felt like click bait and the video preformed to match that feeling... maybe I'm wrong...

But as a former mechanic for yamaha Tokyo, I didn't find any issues with the F9 video.

[TheNobbynoonar]

All internal combustion engines benefit greatly from an ‘Italian service’ now and again.

Get the engine up to operating temperature,
ride it hard. Works for me.

[theheretic]

the sum total moral here is : ride at higher rpms but don't redline every moment - which means get to the midrange fast and ride steady if the traffic and roads allow it.

[kurushunwalla]

I feel we have bought our bikes to enjoy, have fun. Thinking too much about carbon buildup and engine life reduces that exponentially and comparatively how much life will you extend. Not too much I would say unless one is unreasonable in their usage.

I am not saying that we should be stupid or anything but rev the nuts off if you have the road and the mood, cruise when you want to. Primarily enjoy your bike and life 🍻

[ProbeGT]

Do you guys think for 2 seconds before stating that higher RPM = more pressure?

Most of the time, it's the exact oposite unless you're at wide open throttle.

1/4 throttle at low RPM means you completely fill the cylinder with air, meaning a bigger bang, this is why the engine revs up and accelerate you.

1/4 throttle at high rpm means high vacuum from the engine, throttled down by the butterfly meaning less air per cycle, meaning smaller bang.

Lugging an engine will always produce more heat. If you cruise in 6th gear instead of 5th gear, there will always be more cylinder pressure in 6th for the same speed, because you need the same HP to achieve the speed. Same RPM, lower revs means you need more torque, more torque means more cylinder pressure.

[davidbrayshaw]

The last time that I encountered a problem with carbonisation in and engine was in the mid 90's on a 76 Mazda. Just operate engines the way that they were intended to be operated. High RPM, low RPM... blah blah blah. You can feel it in your blood. And if you can't feel it in your blood, check the manufacturer's handbook. It will be in there, if it is something to consider. THEIR ENGINEERS HAVE THOUGHT ABOUT THIS AND MANUFACTURERS HATE BAD PRESS!
Modern engine designs, fuels and lubricants have gone a heck of a long way from the days when carbonisation was a real issue. I've got an old vice in my shed that I inherited from my father, that came accessorised with a tool to secure cylinder heads for the purpose of decarbonising them. That vice was founded in the 1940's. It's 2023!
Use the engine like you should. Treat it well, give it a bit of a blast once in a while to "stretch the rods", get the oil flowing at maximum pressure in order to remove any gunk from the galleries, knock a bit of poop off the pistons, valves and head and it will be fine. No need to overthink this one, folks.

[RandyGiedd]

You should match rpm to allow smooth shifts, you dont want unburned fuel from heavy throttle. The carbon increases and dirty oil also increases. Treat it with respect and dont over-rev . The fuel -air mix is key here so a clean carb or throttle body increases mileage and longevity and helps oil hold its lubricity and stay cleaner longer. Frequent air filter and oil checks increases the life of the motorcycle.

[eriklund]

And another thing. Don't needlessly rev it to the rev limiter parked on the sidestand!!! Don't ride in 2nd gear redlining it at 70mph or whatever that mph is at redline. An engine at going up to redline working hard is the best scenario. An engine revving like crazy with no load is not a good thing. I see these guys with their rockets revving the shit out of them at 70mph on the freeway cruising along and I yell, SHIFT!!! LOL!!!