Rock Climbing: How to Tie a Double Bowline Knot

The Double Bowline Knot is an alternative knot for tying into a harness. It’s easier to untie than a Figure 8 Knot, even after taking multiple falls, so it has to be backed up with a Double Overhand Knot. Learn how to tie a Double Bowline Knot in this video.

To learn more, see our videos on
How to Tie a Stopper Knot
How to Tie a Figure 8 Knot

[pya_]

This is actually a (double) #1034.5 Left-hand Bowline Knot - which Ashley describes as "distinctly inferior" to the normal #1010 bowline - the difference is which way the nip wraps around the standing end relative to the hitches (around 0:32) as Mark pointed out. I'm not actually sure if it's inferior for tying in, but if it is intentional, I think it should be noted since it's a different knot to the #1013 double bowline.

[johngo]

This video would be improved by having a constant point of view from the climbers perspective, like holding the camera over their shoulder and looking down, rather than changing camera angles back-and-forth.

[markgommers]

Thank you for producing this video.
I am always curious as to why there are so many commentators and content writers who advocate the #1013 Double Bowline.
In the first instance, the #1013 Double Bowline is NOT inherently secure.
In order to lock down the structure, a backup stopper knot must be added.
By definition, if you have to add a 'backup stopper knot', then it isn't inherently secure!

1. At 0:23 seconds, the demonstration shows a left handed (S chirality) double nipping loop.
The person tying this #1013 Double Bowline is unaware that he is forming the double nipping loop with S (left) chirality.
The opposite is to tie with Z (right) chirality.
Indeed, most right-handed people would tie a 'Bowline' with Z chirality nipping loop.
As stated, the person doing th demonstration is blissfully unaware of 'chirality' - and viewers of this video would 'assume' that all nipping loops are formed with 'S' chirality.

2. At 0:46 seconds, the narrator states to '"finish th knot with a double overhand stopper knot".
This is actually a 'strangle' - that is, the backup knot strangles around one of the legs of the 'eye'.
The underpinning reason why a backup stopper knot is required is because #1013 Double Bowline is NOT inherently secure.
What does this mean?
A knot that is inherently secure does not require any form of backup stopper knot (ie a double overhand strangled around a rope segment).
There are several inherently secure 'Bowlines' as follows:
1. The EBSB Bowline
2. Scott's locked Bowline
3. Lees link Bowline
4. Harry Butlers Yosemite Bowline
5. Alan Lees Yosemite Bowline

If you want to learn accurate information about 'Bowlines' - go to this link:

Mark G

[mdrawbridge]

Wow..I use this knot and this is the most confusing explanation I’ve ever seen..

[Mdjagg]

The bowline follow through is a much better knot for climbing.

[sophieclark]

Not gonna lie, this was hard to understand because of the changing view points. You can do better than this guys! Yes, but please make one that is less confusing to understand by showing it in one angle and going a little bit slower.

[zenith]

in germany where i am and i have been indoor climbing for 2 years they do not teach us to do it this way
and we dont put the rope in 2 points whe just use the big opening in the middle idk what its called in english

[LiamsMusic]

this is very hard to understand for me

[librapower]

No way am I changing from a figure 8 on my harness! Scope for error too high! just look at all comments disagreements around variations.

[koenbeeckman]

the only thing holding your life is the double overhand, looks really dangerous i can see someone falling if the overhand looses up and you or the rock pulls somewhat on your overhand it is open

[mauricelamain]

if you don't have a pause bottom impossible to follow

[DerekYoungYPR]

This is still a single bowline with only one more loop. Better instruction is retraced bowline.

[KristopherDick]

Changing the camera angle mid knot is visually engaging, from an entertainment perspective, and renders the video entirely useless for any informative purposes. Maybe that's the intent. If people can't actually learn from the video you figure you can't be blamed when it all goes wrong for them.

[JonSteitzer]

your video footage has the guy tying a left hand bowline / cowboy bowline instead of a proper bowline.

So your video is going to be confusing to people looking to tie a proper bowline.

[richardswinson]

The yosemite bowline is far more secure

[jeroenfeher]

American climbing culture seems so different from the European one. There are so many things that can go wrong in terms of user error of bowlines for tie-in compared to the figure 8 all for the sake of not having to work a little harder on untieing.

[GT-stwq]

As was said before, changing angles makes the video difficult to follow. If I fall to my death I blame the wannabe filmmaker who overproduced this thing.