Aluminum VS Stock Radiators Is It Worth it? Differences Between Capacity &“SAE” “MM” Core Sizes

Here is the article discussing this topic:

In this video I explain,

A lot of hype about aluminum radiators and how great they are, yes if you go bigger = more cores= better cooling. But is that true and really worth the extra money. Here we discover some very important variables to consider when purchasing Radiators.
It’s all about Tube width, and the amount of cores

Here, I explain the difference between US performance and import performance Radiators and how they measure to be different.
A 2 Core US performance aluminum radiator
Can out perform a 4 core import performance Radiator. Know your Tube width when purchasing performance radiators..

#deepfakeebayparts #choosingradiators #radiatorinformation

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Due to the factors out of control by ATEM OFFROAD, we cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information ATEM OFFROAD assumes no liability or responsibility for property damages or injuries incurred as a result of any information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk . ATEM OFFROAD recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen in this video, any injury damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools equipment or from the information contained in this video
Is the sole responsibility of the user and not ATEM OFFROAD. Be Safe

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[unkjason]

Personal experience tells me the stock plastic radiator breaks easier. My company truck has just over 104, 000 and this is the second one to break at the drain. So in my humble opinion, go with whatever option isn't plastic.

[tylerkovalski]

One benefit about aluminum radiators that wasn't mentioned is that more often then stock radiators, aluminum radiators can be more easily fixed, rather then needing to be replaced.

[frjhracing]

Hey, i know this comment is super late after your upload but would like to point out some things you're not considering. I used to design industrial lubrication systems which includes a variety of oil to water and oil to air cooling - so my experience with cooling system like this is pretty extensive.

So to start off, even though the total fin width is slightly smaller - the measured fluid capacity implies there is more columns of fins in the three row rad. This will contribute towards more surface area ***even though the surface area per column is less***. Another thing is that a smaller tube/fin will increase the velocity given the same overall flow rate through the radiator. A consequence of higher velocity is that you want to approach turbulent flow to maximize the heat capacity of the given fluid. There is a velocity squared relationship with effective diameter...An oversized radiator is possible when you approach laminar flow through and will also reduce that rads efficiency.

heat exchangers/radiators are always rated in POWER so you may see ratings for 600HP motors etc...Those numbers, for car rads, is going to be a metric of gasoline engines efficiency and how much heat is being rejected. Being that car engines can range from 20-30% you can conclude roughly the amount of power you make at the crank is about as much heat power you need to reject. It would be false advertising for manufacturers to rate their radiators incorrectly - and those ratings are actually a consequence of the rows among everything else I discussed above.
In summary - if you plan on sticking with a stock engine then it's ok to run the stock rad. If you live in a hot area and you have upgraded your engine, increased the power (which is really easy these days with new technology)....then yes UPGRADE YOUR RAD TO THE POWER YOURE MAKING.

[mvannorden]

Great, video. 2.5l to 3.0l is a 20% increase in coolant. Most aluminum radiators advertise 30%-40% better cooling. 25% is the correct field increase. So if your H.P motor is just on the edge of running too hot. Aluminum radiator is worth the $$

[easytopleez]

Nice vid. Hands down when i went from the stock two row brass rad to a three row aluminum. It was NO CONTEST. The three row aluminum was far superior in cooling.

[vaajchang]

I believe the separation in the cores are meant for better air flow. Air can pass through easier with more cores. At two cores, air flow is more restricted than three cores. So the all aluminum radiator is more efficient cooling hot coolant than the oem radiator, which is why racing cars are common to have all aluminum radiator because of the performance needed.

While coolant capacity does makes a substantial difference in making your shopping decision, it is not the sole deciding factor when cross shopping the two radiators.

I think at the price oem sells their aluminum-plastic, it is well worth spending the extra cash to upgrade to more cores all aluminum radiator. At least you know there are no plastic parts that will break.

[taylorgarza]

You went after an often untested quality but you should aim for the temp difference under heat dissipation test being the main difference is the amount of rows which allow more contact with air utilizing the c.f.m

[johngregory]

The three row radiator doesn't just hold a smidge more water, its three rows of tubes will have greater contact area with the fins, allowing more heat to be conducted to the air. I don't know what the pitch difference is between the fins of each, but the three row is going to be better in every way.

[martinobarrett]

At first you sounded like you didn't know what you're talking about but once I watched some more you explained certain thing. Mine be a bit slow on that side but at the end everything was understood 👍🏾 good job man.

[ezzadesa]

i like how u give an answer of your opinion, when others always give an answer like "it depends" anyway good job

[russellschroeder]

It always seems where the hot coolant comes blasting back into the radiator is where the cracks appear on the composite tanks. Aluminum for the win win

[Hydro]

all the stock radiators fins are aluminum too aren't they so technically its just the end tanks that are different material?

[ColoradoMoe]

I was skeptical at first but your process is pretty good. Well organized video and good job casting doubt on what the results might be when explaining the tube size. Aluminum tanks are better. You may not have thought about this but, you can take your all aluminum radiator to a radiator shop and they will seal the leak… something you will never be able to do with a plastic tank.

[rjaybruhh]

*_Cool test! Nice to see the research behind this. Definitely got to order a new aluminum radiator for my 97 Ek Hatch. Just found out that the aluminum wields gave out. After all it was a cheap no name brand LOL. Going to upgrade to a Spoon Radiator someday._*

[ATEMOFFROAD]

Aluminum radiators are good radiators if you buy quality, and know what core design you need for your application. I’m not saying plastic tanks dissipate heat better or last longer ! this video is to raise awareness for buying cheap and deep fake EBay radiators. My mistake is your education!
Both radiators are aluminum cored
One has standard core, the other has an import core design.

US VS Metric Core designs in “TUBE WIDTHS”
..
Story time!
my aluminum radiator leaked after 1 year of service, they fail TOO !! there is more than measuring just coolant capacity, The moral of the story here is to consider buying quality radiators and if you decide to go larger? Are you really going larger?? Do you know what you are buying? Import design? Standard US design? There are several variables to consider when buying aftermarket. I try to point out my mistakes and share key things to look for when you make your next purchase!! This is only educational purposes as you will make the mistake from buying cheap eBay and deep fake radiators ! I hope this helps . This is the point I try to make

eBay sellers sell cheap and deep fake radiators I’m not saying they manufacture them, I’m just sharing my experience here. I have bought cheap radiators before from these sellers and they don’t work, lucky I caught the last which leaked transmission fluid in my coolant and that was a nightmare to repair. I caught this in preparation before for a long distance trip to Yosemite!! I wasted a lot of time and money there. What is your time worth? If you buy quality and know it’s quality good for you. I’m just trying to raise awareness that there are deep fake parts out there and very poor quality, on my think they are getting a good deal when really they are not! . I’m sure you and I can both agree on that? Thanks for watching Cheers

[hwy]

I purchased all aluminum radiator because the original plastic one leaked at the bottom. It cost more so I’m hoping it last longer than the stock replacement. The stock radiator replacement only lasted 8, 000 miles.
Its a extra 100 bucks to get rid of a plastic radiator on my Ford van. Hard to believe they used plastic on the top and bottom. Just a cheap plastic leaker or solid 100% aluminum. I’m going all aluminum.
Thanks for the video

[yanglue]

Thank you very much for the info. Don't what I did for on rebuilding the lower end on my brother's d16y8 engine. The compression was running at 250psi each. Wow, that's high. Running very hot, over pressure, and not taking in coolant nor venting when cool. I have to look into a better or bigger radiator than stock

[_JEBUS]

I prefer the aluminum because plastic tanks crack easily but it's always a gamble. My ebay 3 row aluminum I put on my xj lasted over 6 years and counting.

[MrCxiong]

I go aluminum, I have good experiences with aluminum on all my cars from 90s to mid 2000s. Great cooling and lasted unless you go dirt cheap on unbranded aluminum radiators then they tend to leak with bad welds.

[overnighter]

Briefly, it's NOT how many liters it gets in, but is is HOW EFFECTIVE it COOLS DOWN. And, you don't answer to that... Mate, I appreciate your effort into this vid. But it's a promise undelivered. Cheers