CHOOSING THE BEST RESIN FOR YOUR FIBERGLASS REPAIR PROJECTS

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This is one of those decisions that can make the difference between the finishing steps of the project going smoothly or having to cobble together a path forward and keeping fingers crossed that it holds up ;-)

If you're interested in a more in depth break down of working with these materials, here's a link to the download guide that I mentioned. Please note that the download key may end up in your spam folder so if there's any issues take a peek there. If something didn't work please let me know and I'll email it to you!

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If you're interested in a more in depth break down of working with these materials, here's a link to the download guide that I mentioned. Please note that the download key may end up in your spam folder so if there's any issues take a peek there. If something didn't work please let me know and I'll email it to you!

boatworkstoday
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Thank you so much for your wisdom. I brought back a 1971 Thompson Sidewinder 14SS almost entirely using your council and it absolutely rocks. Solid as a rock. I didn't know Shinolah about fiberglassing before watching your channel and it came out perfectly using West Systems Epoxy for most structural and then some Polyester on floorboards, etc... THANK YOU !!! :D

BruceTGriffiths
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Andy, really miss your old stuff from 10-12 yrs ago.

robhandford
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Another great vid, recommend people slow it down and watch it two, three times.

There are many stitch and glue designs where the naval architect calls for epoxy resin and you still want that gelcoat finish. There will be a bunch of these guys pulling there hair out about now haha.

You should link your video of the gelcoat over epoxy tests, which showed us it is fine for poly over epoxy with the correct preparation. It might quell some of those comments

andrewiannello
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I love me a good chemistry geeking-out video. Understanding the material and the material properties is the best way to avoid using the wrong tool for the wrong application.

Just recently went with a Sherwin Williams marine product specifically because it was a phenalkamine epoxy barrier coat… very blush resistant in humid environments, and tolerates curing down to 20F and my nighttime temps were typically getting into the 40s.

Chemistry knowledge is power, and saved ass pain from having to strip down good work and sweat equity that used the wrong product.

Great video. You’re welcome to help me recore my deck anytime!!

ekfinn
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Good info. There’s also different kinds of polyesters and vinyl esters with different gel times (20 mins - 2 hours at 77 degrees). Also different mekp with different kick off times.

FiberglassGuy
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Attacking a new to me process doing a balsa core in a race boat. My plan was gonna be epoxy over a honeycomb lightweight core. But I have lots of friends in the unlimited hydroplane racing world. And 2 of them who I greatly respect stopped and schooled me. I will be using balsa and vinylester. I have never used vinylester. I will be revisiting some of your older videos to refresh my memory. In my case I need to match the outer skin of my hull to a certain level on the inner skin over the core. Oh and vacuum bagging coming too. You might say I am over my head! But I am also chasing triple digits and wanna be as safe as possible. Hope you are feeling good with your shoulder.

countryracer
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You were a great helkp last year when i redid my boat floor. I learned a lot from you.

trixdropd
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Nice to see you again doing your stuff fully recovered!! Happy regards from Argentina!!

capitanschetttino
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In the UK we have 3 different catalysts for polyester as well. Slow or summer through to winter of fast.

dessilverson
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Good info Andy. Keep the good stuff coming.

johnnylightning
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When I using polyester at summer I have it standing on a cooling plate (for food). Then I have some extra time before it starts to cure.

tobiasarvedal
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Hi Andy, great video!! I have a question, if I may. I have a Class C RV, and I'm removing the upper window of the cabover area, and reskinning to solid. Using polywall as the skin to cover the window, and fiberglass over it. Here's where I'm getting stuck.
I'm not building cabinets, or patching the hull of my Beneteau 50. I'm just covering a hole on my 1987 RV. I wanted to use polyester, but people are saying it's not truly waterproof. Others are saying use vinylester, because it is waterproof. If I use polyester finishing resin for the complete wet work, I'm only skinning with three layers of 1.5" Matt fiberglass, I'll get a hard waterproof surface. Can I use finishing resin for entire project? If I use polyester laminating, will it leak? Some are saying during the curing process, polyester releases gases, and that creates tiny bubble holes, where moisture gets in. Can't I just prime and paint over that?
So many questions. I just am looking for an economical resin, that I can use on my Front top area of my RV, that won't turn into a sponge, and rot away, five years down the road. Economically, I'd like to use Poly, but I want a hard cure within 12-24 hours. Total wet work time, of layers, will probably be two hours. I'm going to apply multiple layers, stopping at three, and then I want to walk away, come back in a day, do a slight sand, apply primer and paint. Ultimately, I'm going to put a vinyl decal over it all, so I'm not looking for beauty, just water resistant....waterproof would be ideal.

I know this is a bunch, but mainly looking for if I can use finishing resin for entire project, because I'm looking for a hard surface after 12 hours, if I use laminating poly, can I just paint, or should I step up, and use vinylester, for complete job, and not have to worry about waterproof, because everyone says vinylester is waterproof after cure.

If you answer, thank you in advance.

DarkSevariant
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I've watched your "There's A Hole In My Boat" series and you used laminating polyester resin. After hearing you say that polyester shouldn't be used on top of epoxy, I'm wondering how you determine whether the original FG you're repairing is epoxy or polyester?

schwarz
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Andy great vid however more info would be great comparing vinyl vs poly in the long run, not so much working with them, you covered that.

Ive been lead to believe ester dries much stronger than poly, and bonds better as well. Your thoughts? Oh cost comparison would be cool as well.

mgunning
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Great video! Going to be fixing a few gauges in my Bass boat. Really helpfull. Thanks for sharing!

joewinkler
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What an informative video, Andy! Nice one!

TotalBoat
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Glad you"re back! Always intresting and well produced.
Any Bertram progress?

peterihre
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Hey Andy. I did my wet work with polyester resin. But i purchased epoxy primer& barrier coat. And epoxy fairing compound. Doesn't sound like a gel coat is compatible with the epoxy

fuzzymonkey-qexp
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I'm making a small model boat about 3ft long, and want to cover it in surface tissue with resin on the inside where the hull meets the shell...I already bought epoxy resin and RTU, but still not sure it is the correct choice. I will be doing one side first and then when it is dry, it will be ground back on the edges until it is just big enough and I can put the sides on, then when ll is done the outside will also get tissue and resin. Only want to paint the bottom facing bits where it might wear against surfaces... and varnish over resin the rest. SO I need to be able to not do it all in one go.

poepflater