ENDLESS Heat for Your Home WITHOUT Electricity

[HiddeneyeInc]

While I commend you on this video and idea there's a few things with this build I have to comment on. Let me point out that I’ve been a certified Chimneysweep for a very long time. This method of heating is not a new one and historically dates back a very long way. Styles change but the design is mostly the same. First you must space fireboard and concrete board 1” from the wall for safety reasons, this allows air to flow behind the board and prevent the board from retaining heat at the firebox mounting point and causing a smoldering fire behind it. This is caused by the concrete board coastally transferring the heat to the wood causing it to get hotter over time to the point of combustion. Next issue is that gutters are not made of steel and are aluminum. This means the melting point for the metals is around 1221 degrees F or 660 degrees C. while the output you showed is around 450 degrees F the spots directly over the flames will be much hotter near or at the melting point. You would be better off using copper gutter as copper’s melting point is 1984 degrees F or 1085 degrees C. Also, copper gutter comes in round segments meaning you will get a much better draft. It would be wiser to braze the copper to the steel with bronze rod. I’m unsure if copper gutter could be roll flanged and brazed like steam boilers but this would be a much better option to seal it than JB weld which will break down over time. Your other option would be to use a multitude of 1’pipe flanged into the box in an arrangement that would pick up much more heat. You can find this information by looking up how to make barrel stoves and stream boilers. Then braze the copper gutter around the outside of the box to allow attachment of the input and output piping. Lastly, I would recommend building a means to adjust the wick higher and lower to better control the heat. There are a number of easy ways to do this with some old small gears steel rod and flat wick. I would also as other sugested look into the chimney effect as well as this will cause better movement of air. All in all This is a great build with some minor tweeking you can make it even better.

[RareVBlue]

If I'm not mistaken, most residential gutter drains are made out of aluminum. Not steel. So they can actually melt and burn if the temperature gets hot enough. Not as easy as an aluminum can placed in a fire but it can still oxidize, become brittle, and even melt if the temperature gets high enough where you have it sitting in the flame. Also, instead of an electric fan, a wood stove fan can be modified to move the air and it will not require electricity. Also, the thin sheetrock you painted black will heat up, because it is sheetrock, and because it is black. This heat can transfer through to the wood behind it and can actually cause smoldering and even spontaneous combustion. It should be a reflective surface like sheet metal so it reflects most of the radiant heat. And JB weld should only be used if it is the extreme heat variety but I still wouldn't recommend that. The normal JB weld is only good at 600 degree Farenheit max. But at lower heat such as 200 to 300, it will eventually weaken and crumble. The ultimate goal is having a safe heater that will not cause a fire. And since you are using a fuel source such as cooking oil, etc, that creates a bigger fire hazard without the proper precautions because oil itself burns at about 2700 to 2800 degrees Fahrenheit at the hottest point of the flame. And you have the gutter drain sitting right in the hottest part of the flame judging by what I see at the 15 second mark in the video.

[jolujo]

One pointer : the concrete backer board needs to be mounted with a 1 1/2" to 2" space between it and the wall . Otherwise the backer board will heat soak and eventually conduct enough heat to damage the wall.
I made the same mistake with a small wood stove many years ago.
Great design and fabrication 👍👍👍👍😊

[joelongstaff]

Daniel a most excellent proof of concept. I built mine out of steel box tubing, that's what I had on hand. We ran it in our icefishing shack and it did very well. I used 6 flat wicks and the gears like a lamp. I'm using used oil so it is free from the machines from our farm. My fan is 12v so a motor cycle battery and small solor panel was plenty this season but next winter I plan to scavenge DC curent from the heat of the burner so no panel on the roof. Thankyou bud.

[polok]

Jb weld will to turn to dust in high heat. I tried it multiple times

[berserkasaurusrex]

A few minor suggestions to further refine/improve this design:

If you make the indoor pipe a bit longer and have it bend upwards as it leaves the can, similar to the exhaust pipes in the back, the rising hot air in the pipe will draw more air in from the bottom of the pipe, and the fan won't be necessary. Research something called the "Chimney Effect", it's how my blacksmith forge pulls smoke away from the coke so I don't smoke up the whole shop. No fans required.

Also, rather than using aluminum gutters for the indoor pipe, try finding some old copper tubing. It'll handle the heat better long-term, and you can bend it into a spiral inside the can, to gather the heat from the flames more efficiently.

And, actually you could install this whole rig outside the cabin, with just that copper tubing passing into the cabin to spew hot air. This would lose some heating from the can and rain gutters, but would largely eliminate the concerns over Carbon Monoxide leaking into the house and minimize the risk of a fire as well.

[ARoyalLyon]

Lots of great comments and suggestions. Mine is to not cut rectangular holes and throw away all that useful metal, but cut Xs and bend the points out to make a solid flange with much more sealing surface area. There are wide/flat jawed pliers and vise grips for sheet metal work that would do a neat job of it. The ducts could also be screwed or riveted to these flanges for a mechanically solid assembly that doesn't rely on or stress the sealant. A solid mount on both sides of the heat exchanger will cause stress as it heats and expands at a different rate and extreme than the sides its attached to.

[joshfrombkln]

I like it but umm.... without electricity?? 3:12, Computer fan runs on a 12v DC is the fan 100% necessary?

[JCC_]

I love how all of the comments are positive feedback and tips for this young man. 💜

[vladimir]

Not trying to denigrate what you did here. I always admire people for being innovative and putting effort into deriving solutions. It’s a very interesting idea that I haven’t seen before and apparently you’ve been able to make it work. Thanks for uploading

[magapefarmshomestead]

To daniels dad: thank you for teaching your son, and hopefully all your children, to think for themselves and not to listen to naysayers. Naysayers only want you to give up or fail and true failure is quitting!! Any other failure usually means that you have not thought things through enough (Tesla) or tried enough options (edison). Thank you for teaching truths!! Both of you!!

[operator]

Excellent job, this is the true purpose of Youtube 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽

[kensmith]

If you add a rise to the pipe that lets the hot air into the room, the chimney effect on that pipe would let you run it without the fan.
If you attach a flat plate to the top of the box, you can have a surface that can hold a small kettle to let you make some tea etc.
I would want to be very careful about how the exhaust pipe goes out through the wall. It would be making that bit of wall fairly hot.
A shiny metal surface behind the heater would reflect more heat as infrared into the room.

[Bristoll]

Holy Cow! That is a BRILLIANT bit of kit. So simple, and the temperature measurements show it's very efficient with the oil burn. As luck would have it, my shed needs exactly one of these so I'll make one.
Wonderful to stumble across you chanel and I wish you all the best for future projects.
Cheers
Pete' New Zealand.

[eazolan]

This looks pretty nice for a first version!
I would make one modification. Add a sterling engine fan. You see them on stop of stoves for off-grid cabins, they run completely off of heat and require no electricity. So you just need to add one to the inside vent and it will start working as soon as your furnace starts.
A way to refuel it, and start it without taking it apart would be a goal for the next version.

[KeithWitts-ckbn]

A young guy doing something, ,got my vote

[kentevans]

Great yes these type heaters have been around a long
You need to not use drain pipe....use steel. Also put another barrier between the back of the heater and the wall. Your exhaust pipe should be setup like a propane hot water tank exhaust or even a wood stove exhaust.
The small fan pushing the heat through is a very efficient add on to this system. Very good project!! 👍

[kingsfamily]

EXCELLENT work, young man!!! As an American, I am so proud of you!!! Thank you

[thecommonman]

WOW, I have a small work shop so I have no room for a wood stove or drip oil heater. THIS is perfect! Thanks for sharing.

[Dawnarow]

No bs (direct+informative) and just straight up ingenuity! Love it. First video I watched of you and that beats almost 95% of the other channels... and I do watch a lot of engineering, philosophy, epistemology, maths and whatnot...