Polyurethane vs Polyacrylic: Which Woodworking Stain and Wood Finish is Best?

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When you are completing a woodworking project, you want it to look its very best and last a lifetime. This is where you need to add a finish coat of polyurethane or polycrylic to the piece to give it a shiny appearance that is durable and resistant to damage.

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Knowing the difference between polyacrylic and polyurethane can help you create a woodworking piece that looks its best and stands up to the demands placed upon it.

This polycrylic vs polyurethane review will help you understand the differences in the two coatings and help you decide which is best for the application of your wood project. Once you are done building your wood piece and getting it ready for finishing, this guide will allow to protect and preserve it for years to come.

What is Polyacrylic?

Polyacrylic, or sometimes called just polycrylic is a water-based coating that can be applied to a myriad of wood surfaces. It is available in satin and high gloss finishes. It applies clear and can be cleaned up easily based on its water-based makeup.

Polycrylic Summary:

​- Water-based
- Fast drying
​- Satin and high gloss finish
​- Best used on lighter woods

You want to use polycrylic when you need a fast-drying sealant. Polycrylic dries very fast and seals quickly.

What is Polyurethane?

Conversely, polyurethane is a​ sealant that provides exceptional durability on wood surfaces, and is available as both a water-based sealant and an oil-based sealant. Polyurethane is much more durable than polycrylic – some label it as “liquid plastic” while its still in the tub, because when it dries it will turn as hard as plastic.

Polyurethane Summary:

- Water-based or oil-based
​- Slow drying
​- Matte, satin, glossy, and high gloss finish
​- Very strong sealant
- Provides a shiny look when dry

Finish Selection Overview
​Glossy = very shiny
​Satin = some shine
​Matte = no shine

When to Use Polyurethane?

Water-based Polyurethane
​- Suited for darker wood
​- Best for indoor surfaces
​- Low use items

Oil-based Polyurethane
- ​Suited for all wood
​- Indoor or outdoor surfaces
​- High use items
- Areas that get wet

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straight-to-the-point information from an expert. great video.

ytb
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Very nice video sir. And the description helped a lot.

jatwangismyname
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Thank you! Your videos helped me a lot!

annatal
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Beautiful work- I concur, the oil based product is tougher regarding protection

JonDunnmusician
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Thank you very much for this explanation .

marie-helenegalarneau
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Polyurethane can be got as a water-base as well, and is less inclined to leave yellow residue.

HSQadri
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Can you use an airless sprayer for spraying polyurethanes?

roberthunt-kr
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This was extremely helpful ans answered all of my questions. Thank you!

kratosaurion
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Very helpful - thank you very much :-)

LTTPUK
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Can you use Polycrylic finish on gel stain?

waynenelson
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Exactly what I wanted to know! Very helpful. Thank you!

mrharlemike
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Would it be okay to apply polycrylic to joint compound?

jabs
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If your spraying polycrylic you would still need a respirator cause the chemical used to dissolve the acrylic is still hazardous. If your spraying outside its not as much of a hazard but if indoors then definately a good idea to protect yourself

carlcox
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Can I use Polyacrylik on top of a Oil base Tint?

simonacevedo
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I finished a desk and an antique bed in Polyurethane and it yellowed . I’m in the process of redoing the desk and will eventually redo the bed but have chosen the Polycrylic this time I’ve heard that the Polycrylic will have a whitish finish but I’m ok with that because the color paint I use in an Antiqued White . I just don’t want yellowing.

adrianagflores
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Thank you so much for this video, I need to use one for coasters with acrylic paints that would withstand hot mugs would you recommend me one please ? I tried water based polyurethane but it yellowish my items 😔

dinaelsherbiny
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hi. taken me ages to find a channel like yours!

i am the son of a carpenter which makes me a true wood butcher!

i am in the middle of chipping a knife sharpening pond out of an old pine bed frame and a hotel pan. instead of making it easy and straight forwards i was arrogant. gone wayyy way too complicated. I know the theory yet i do not have the practice, experience or skill.
And of course, i thought i was big enough and ugly enough to do it all with hand tools. I.E no mitres, and actually no old timber.

i need to do some very creative wood fillling and a lot more sanding!

My most important goal is to have a solid place to whet blades. My second goal is for it to look slightly prety.

I am going to a lot of sanding and coating. After applying many thin layers of Quick Drying Interior/Exterior Woodsheen DARK WALNUT 250ML by Dulux ...

What would be the best layer to protect the wood?

It is my first solo project so i want it to last long enough to be handed down to atleast on generation so it can be used.

Peace & Love x

I am in the UK but happy to inport

lukebellamy
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Great informative video, thank you!
Could you please recommend the finish for birch plywood used for the kitchen cabinets? I would say the project goals are 1-protection, 2-low sheen, 3-non yellowing natural look. I like the look of water based polyurethane finish, but would that be suitable?

mariajudova
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im interested in painting kitchen cabinets with a white or light color. which would be best. which is a better heat and water resistor? ty

causeeffect
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Just because the Polycrylic appears white in the container, doesn't mean it leaves a white hue when cured. In my experience the white disappears when it cures and comes out clear.

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