All about the Petzl Nano Traxion vs Micro Traxion !!

How do the Petzl Nano Traxion and the Petzl Micro Traxion compare?

Diameter at center of rope groove
Micro Traxion: 27 mm (2.7 times a 10mm rope)
Nano Traxion: 18.05 mm (1.8 times a 10mm rope = much more friction!!)

Easy and safe to opt in or opt out of it and get exclusive perks! Thanks!

Petzl Nano Traxion for sale (3 links):
Petzl Micro Traxion for sale (2 links):

Find my Rope Solo online courses here:

0:00 Introduction
0:46 Weight
1:54 Size of pulley
4:11 Strength / rating
4:56 Rope size compatibility
5:53 Width
6:41 Toothed cam / spring strength
8:31 Friction in device
9:28 Effect of the carabiner / connector choice
11:57 Device keeper cord
12:18 Nano for Top Rope Solo (TRS)
12:49 Another advantage of the Sm'D carabiner: width
13:15 Deactivation of the progress capture
13:47 How it influences Top Rope Solo (TRS)
14:24 Rappel with device on the rope
16:08 Use for hauling on big walls
16:53 Conclusion

***********

***********

[benwolpert]

Perhaps im a little late to the party, but thank you for the video and all the information and time you put into this. I like to research things and weigh out what the best option is before purchasing something and this had everything i would like to see in it. Thank you very much!

[ASNIV_]

Awesome comparison. Thanks the thorough work you do!

[ButterBallTheOpossum]

You have a cool accent. Half the time it sounds like a French accent and then the other half of the time you sound like you have a perfect American accent.

[suezix]

Great comparison, thanks. Happy you covered the cord thing, and you just taught about that trick for letting the MT on while rappeling, thank you!!!!

[Mlanding]

Yann, Thank you so much for this video. I decided to buy the Micro Traxion after your review.

[LucScheffers]

What a great comparison Yann! Nice! About the pulley size. Yes bending/reforming is resulting in drag. Bit also the shear size of the pulley.
You might want to think of it as, removing a wheel bolt from your car. With a small wrench (small radius of pulley) or a 50% larger wrench to overcome the friction of the bolt. The Nano is 18mm and the Micro 27mm. exact 50% larger. and so 50% more easy to overcome the friction of the bearing. Not ones, but continuous. Next to that the smaller Nano must turn (and overcome that friction and bending rope) 17, 7 times and the Micro 11, 8 times for 1 meter of rope.
One note to the stronger spring in the Nano; my guess is that de radius of the Nano is smaller, so the contact surface of cam/pulley is less. Therefore it must grab for sure, which a stronger spring can do.

[JonPoulson]

Thanks Yann. Been looking forward to this device.

[YannCamusBlissClimbing]

I received the following comment from Craig Spaulding of SICgrips:

Since the Microtrax release cord was mentioned in passing, I thought I would address it here as a comment. There have been three complaints made by arm-chair climbers and gearoom “test-pilots” who’ve never tried the RIPcord Release. I’ll address each of these. I want to be clear - none of these have been observed during my year and a half of use.
1. “Cord will get entangled in toothed cam and prevent it from locking up.” This is pretty much impossible to happen since it is not a dangling single cord that can get flipped up into the cam. It is a short loop that’s on the back side of the cam away from the teeth.
2. “Cord loop will get caught on something to prevent it from locking up.” Unless you’re climbing in a brushy/bushy area, there is nothing for it to get caught on. The loop is on the backside of the MT/NT facing the body between your legs and it is vertically oriented, not horizontal like a lasso.
3. “Cam teeth will rub on rope while rapping causing it to snag and rip sheath fibers causing extra wear.” Take a look at the photos in my blogpost. There is plenty of clearance between the pulled open cam and the rope when rapping. If you use an older fatter rope, then it might be possible. I’ve used this mod with ropes that are 9.4-9.6. If it does snag the rope, then it’s going to lock up just like in a TRS “fall”. Once the teeth initiate the lock up, it’s the cam action that pinches the rope and stops movement, not the teeth.
Again, I’m not trying to convince anyone - just trying to share info based on my experience. If your “inner climber” is paranoid, by all means don’t use it. However, if it looks like something that might be useful to you, then give it a try and make your own observations. This mod is is for MT/NT backup use and is fairly easy and safe to test by implementing before grinding off the lock-out nub. YMMV.

[mountaineer]

Good video, thanks. Can you do a review of the DMM Buddy?

[ryman]

Alternate these videos. Huge knowledge dumps and l scooping them up 👍

[Govanification]

Basically seems like the nanotrax is ideal for skinny ropes in glacier travel / crevasse rescue / ski mountaineering where weight is really important. Otherwise if using a rope >9mm (most singles for rock climbing) or wanting the option to use it without the progress capture disabled the microtrax seems better. I'm not picking up the nano trax anytime soon, already happy with the micro for all uses from glaciers to rock.

[Jwynne_]

I have 2 nano traxes that are around 2 years old and I have done a lot of soloing and belaying on one of them. I just bought a micro and it definitely has a weaker spring

[sahntahdemon]

What is your preferred connector for he Micro Traxion when top rope soloing? Petzl BM'D? OK? Sm'D?

[expierreiment]

I ordered mine nano traxion already 6 months ago. Should arrive in the next two weeks. I‘m really curious how it compares in rescue situations

[nathanfisher]

The nano lacking the cam lock is a big drawback, you no longer can use it as a pulley. (it also sounds like the heavier cam spring will cause a noticeable increase in rope jacket wear)

[ralfrussel]

Looks like the Edelrid Spoc. How similar are those two? Do you have them both?

[tomtom]

Looks very interesting for crevasse rescue?

[JackArn]

Any more updates on the friction..? thinking about getting a Nano but wondering about the friction on my 10.5mm static, the Micro I have works great paired with a handled ascender as back up (using this as I had it already). Wanting to upgrade my back up to something else, possibly nano..

[vangough]

Just curious have you tired the nano traxion with the grivel clepsydra? I’ve Been using combo for top rope solo(backed up w micro traxion) just wondering if you see any issues or potential problems

[JonPoulson]

Could the spring tension be due to micro trax is a used device?