VW Bug how to prevent engine overheating

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Here are additional key information for modified engines plus more cooling stuff...

Mikefngarage
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Been running an oil temp gauge for 20 years and has served me well. If your oil temp gets too high you know your heads are too hot. Best thing i did for my engine run cooler (being in southern California where it gets very hot in the summer) was to space the engine lid. Dropped my oil temp like 40 degrees. It has never overheated since.

JohnnyRebel
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VERY enlightening!! I've been around bugs since 1960, yeah I'm THAT old! Through the years, it's amazing how many things we forget. Just got a VW Trike for the wife. Engine's fairly open, so I wasn't worried 'bout bottom tin. OOPS, gonna install them. I like that you brought attention to oil temp. vs engine temp! An engine can literally 'smoke' itself before the oil temp goes up.

bills
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yes, and keeping engine clean & oil free....I created channel adapters, from aluminum....I run J-tubes, they take the place of the heater box sides....sold a pair, on my '67 vid, thanx from all bugheads everywhere

RJDCR
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Mike, you are a wealth of information. 100% of things you mentioned I had to figure out though out the years with many failures.

FixinBugsNStuff
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Great explanation! Good job and nice bug!
Just a little improvement: Relocate the fuel filter below your tank to avoid leaking and fire in your engine compartment.

hubertschuppe-wurmer
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Ditto on removing the fuel filter. Relocate under the wheel well. Also, lace the hose clamps where they connect to the carb and fuel pump as the brass fittings frequently slip out of the casting. This together with ensuring you have a good grommet where the metal fuel line enters the firewall and you will have mitigated 99% of the risk of fire. Very nice car. Please do not let it burn up. I have seen too many, all the same cause.

tomm
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It's funny that most people's engines always have those tin screws that secure the bottom tin to the case missing. Not sure why, but I bet it's well over 50% of the motors I look at have those 4 screws missing. I'm sure you also notice that the carb preheat tubes are missing the inner and outer top seals. Not a big deal, but still missing and a place air can recirculate back up top. You obviously know your way around ACVWs but for those that don't know what complete tin looks like, you might want to point that out. Great vid none the less.

ocavant
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You mention 'you know how it sound like' (when it gets hot) and that brought me back to 1985 and my 1967 bug. I remember exactly what your talking about. When the engine got too hot, it got weak and sounded different...

jasonargone
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My 71 bus(12yrs)had a Berg $5 oil dipstick temp gauge. Made the red oil light flash when oil got hot. Used it on my 1776cc dual carb. I added a deep sump and external oil cooler w/ electric fan mounted away from engine under floor. Course my oil volume went from 2qt to 6qt. I totally agree that ALL SHEET METAL has to be there.

MartinSage
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I grew up with VW but not a handyman. I never install a 009, just a vacuum centrifugal advance because former makes engine run hot. Nice video.
😎🇵🇭👍

joeysarmiento
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Good advice on keeping top and bottom of the motor isolated, that's key as is running all the tin including "sleds" underneath. As VW increased fan capacity they started adding the deck lid louvers. My 1970 has two rows of louvers and a rain shield but not the dog house shroud, just a wider fan. Doghouse flows a lot more air. You may never have a problem but the best place for fuel filter is where the fuel line comes out of the chassis at the back of the pan and use a metal one, not plastic or glass. Almost everybody tossed the flaps and thermostat when rebuilding but the flaps actually redirect a little more air over a section of the heads even when fully open. It's not vital but does help cool the heads some. I run them in my bug but not in my speedster. I also don't like how the new thermostats fail closed but the old accordion stats can still be found. If you run stand offs you can use baja bug tricks to keep your bug running in the rain/wash. Hair spray on the plug wires was one of my favorites. :)

thomastalbot
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How to prevent your air cooled VW from overheating ?  Just assemble and install it the same as they did from the factory with all of the same parts that it came from the factory. The folks at VW put a lot of Deutschmarks into designing it so it would run well, don't try to re-engineer it.

brianallen
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Nice tip on rejetting and cylinder head temp gauge on #3. I like the version which uses a ring under the plug. I’ve had bad luck with the version which utilizes a cooling fin attachment. For Florida summers I use the deck lid stand offs along with your lid lift. I also like the Mystery Oil setup. I’ve been doing VWs since 1977 and it’s funny older you are the more stock you run and appreciate the amazing engineering done by the factory designers.

MEB
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Always, Always use engine oil with a zinc additive to make your lifters and cam last .

Marky-jo
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Also painting your engine is a bad idea. A clean rough casting is best for heat dissipation. Dr Porsche knew what he was ding. Very smart guys designed this stuff.

MEB
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Why some people say "no" or finger down?...The guy took his time to show some positive issues on the air cooled VW engine.Please guys.

From me is a...THANK YOU.

washingtonpeluka
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My simple way to keep my 68 bug cooler, was to drill a small hole in the rear bumper at the center ''front'' edge, and a small hole in the engine lid at the low tip, put a old fashioned screen door hook in the bumper the hook eye nutted into the engine lid open the lid, insert the hook into the hook eye, drive down the . An VDO oil temp ''told '' me it worked cuz if the oil temp started to rise to higher than I liked it , I would pull over and open the lid, put the hook that was dangling from the bumper into the engine lid eye, get back on the road and watch the oil temp drop quickly to where I liked it engine lid was about 4 inches ''open'', and sucked the heat OUT !!!

waltsnow
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I have never had an overheating issue with my '71. When i adjust the valves, I always leave #3 a bit loose. I also have an oil cooler and filter (aftermarket) Also, keep the seals in good shape as well. Every 1500 miles or 3 months, i inspect the fuel pump, lines and fittings.

mikeglenn
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All these people without the proper tinwork and seals complaining about the "design flaws" of the engine. No, its the fact that you butchered it. Take out half the radiator and switch down to 1/2 radiator hoses and see how well your water cooled car works.

MaineMachinist
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