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How to convert rust inside a Box Chassis Frame: Boroscope, 90° long Pliers, Phosphoric Acid Gel Time
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"early 20th century: from French châssis ‘frame’, based on Latin capsa ‘box’ (see case2)." In Spanish "box" is Caja - fascinating!!
I hit a limit where I was creating NEW rust after I had converted the old rust. Because the phosphoric acid on plain metal creates rust while the phosphoric acid on rust converts it to iron phosphate. Since I could not precisely control the direction of the spray of the phosphoric acid - then I was converting as much rust as I was making new "surface rust."
So I had to stop but my final rust conversion spray was with the RustMort pint - that is expensive since it is 80% concentration! I wanted to make sure I converted as much rust as possible....
So now I will just rely on the "rust converter" spray paint - which with Rustoleum is a zinc oxide layer that creates it own zinc rust layer - to prevent any new rust.
The Eastwood Rust converter spray paint has a weak tannic acid in it that is to convert any remaining rust on the metal. So that will come with the internal frame spray wand - that also goes with the Eastwood internal frame coating paint. That paint has mineral oil in it to "cover" the rust.
Finally I then will apply the SEM Wax "Rust Preventer" that comes with the 360 degree Aerosol Wand. That wand is no longer produced but I found one in stock online. So that wand will attach well - unlike another product of wax in a spray can - with a wand. That other product, the reviews say, has the wand LEAK HALF of the wax. I just had that messy experience trying to use the Eastwood wand on the Rustoleum Rust converter spray can - so the wand attachment is a critical key component - it has to fit perfectly.
I hit a limit where I was creating NEW rust after I had converted the old rust. Because the phosphoric acid on plain metal creates rust while the phosphoric acid on rust converts it to iron phosphate. Since I could not precisely control the direction of the spray of the phosphoric acid - then I was converting as much rust as I was making new "surface rust."
So I had to stop but my final rust conversion spray was with the RustMort pint - that is expensive since it is 80% concentration! I wanted to make sure I converted as much rust as possible....
So now I will just rely on the "rust converter" spray paint - which with Rustoleum is a zinc oxide layer that creates it own zinc rust layer - to prevent any new rust.
The Eastwood Rust converter spray paint has a weak tannic acid in it that is to convert any remaining rust on the metal. So that will come with the internal frame spray wand - that also goes with the Eastwood internal frame coating paint. That paint has mineral oil in it to "cover" the rust.
Finally I then will apply the SEM Wax "Rust Preventer" that comes with the 360 degree Aerosol Wand. That wand is no longer produced but I found one in stock online. So that wand will attach well - unlike another product of wax in a spray can - with a wand. That other product, the reviews say, has the wand LEAK HALF of the wax. I just had that messy experience trying to use the Eastwood wand on the Rustoleum Rust converter spray can - so the wand attachment is a critical key component - it has to fit perfectly.
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