Multimeters - Insulation Resistance Testing

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A croc clip connected to the outer sheath? Never seen that before.

bitTorrenter
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Thanks for your discussion. You may be surprised to learn that the L terminal is negative. So, technically the black lead should go on the right and red on the left. Meanwhile the middle terminal G is effectively at the same potential as E, unless there is current flowing from L to E via the circuit under test. Somewhat confusing, but kept simple if you don't use the G terminal.

iconoclad
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Why are there two identical ranges, i.e. two settings for 250V, two settings for 500V and two for 1kV? Are they identical?

NatureAndTech
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The reading only flashes up for a fraction of a second, so fast it is difficult to see. How do you get to hold the reading?

johnburns
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I have that same tester and I want to use it to test motors. I know that above 2 meg is good but what reads would indicate a week motor

mak
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Can it be used to test if the power is running..?

rioranque
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Best video I've seen on IR testing on wire.  Thanks for posting.  Is it possible to run tests on IR unit itself to see if working properly without sending to calibration lab? ( I have Fluke 1587 unit)

Renaissance
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Thanks for video. Is live the correct term for L cable? I was told it is actually Line: no live parts here I hope for safety and correct readings! Both L and N are live when power is in the circuit. Insulation testing normally done when power off I.e. not live.
Do you have recommended equipment/specs for doing these tests? Thanks

ferventheat
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I've got exactly the same one as you mine gives me different readings all the time no consistency

Babihrse
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Hi pdf. doc. states object for test has to be firmly ?

mikepayne
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Multimeters probably are not able to test insulation resistance because its open voltage is about 5V.
To test IR, you have to have a insulation resistance tester, such tester produces above hundred volts, specialized for that matter.

galax
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Your testing to the outer sheath isn’t any good. You can have the putter sheath cut an inch further down all the way down to one of the conductors.
Just clamping on the clip to that outer sheath. Would never find the leak even an inch away from the exposed conductor being tested.

But a good way to do it is with a bucket of water. Shoving the entire cord into the bucket of water. Letting just the plug ends hang over the top out of the water.
An drop in one of your leads into that bucket of water. Than using your test lead an checking each conductor.
Than if theirs a leak that probe that’s dangling in the bucket of water with all of the cord will detect that leak.

But the way you did that test on that outer sheath won’t find anything. Yould have to be clamped onto the broken outer sheath an conductor. An it still may not pick it up. Why because it’s insulation.

By doing it in the water. Your giving that possible broken cord. A path for that voltage to travel by the way of through the water.

But the rest of the test was fine. It was just the one when you tested the outside sheath. That method would of never found anything

AquaTech