Can one Speed Controller Run two Hub Motors???

Music - Sunspots

-Hub motor MXUS FX04 250 Watt 36 Volts
-Controller 250Watt 36 Volts (can run halless)
-Speed Limiter D.I.Y
-Power Meter 60V max 150A Watt meter

[marcusbridge]

I don't know if anyone has explained this yet, but the problem is magnetic induction in one moter feeding inverse flow into the other. It is creating an oscillation back and forth between the two. As one spins faster than the other it acts as a generator to the other. This is demonstrated when you turn one by hand the other rotates in the opposite direction.this means the moters are constantly fighting each other. If you wish to run two on the same controller you could try either run them in series while doubling your voltage or add some capable diodes to prevent backflow. I would recommend two moter controllers however. One side effect of this is the dynamic breaking, so coasting would be an issue.

[guitarwirdo]

By the looks of it, it seems to make more sense just to add a second speed controller ( or one designed for dual motor setups.) Either way, it's still a good experiment and I'm glad you took the time to figure it out so the rest of us don't have to

[asquid]

The wise thing to do would be to use two speed controllers and two motors connected to a single throttle source. That's how quad copters are built. Each motor has its own speed controller, and the speed controllers are synchronized when you calibrate throttle position.

[blahblahblahblah]

0:31 I've never seen a motors looking so happy before

[RAMTK]

Nice. I’ve actually did the same thing but instead of one controller I did it with two 48v controllers and 2x 1000 watt hub motors. and rewired the controller to work with one throttle. My goal was for more torque but also gained a little bit of more speed from 28 mph to 34 mph

[michaelmeisman]

Your assertion at 9:29 is very correct. I was very glad to see that you do not recommend doing this. There are other reasons why this is real bad in real word usage. Watch what happens when you connect the 2 wheels to a common surface where the cant readily slip between each other. Or you can try using a chain or cog belt between them. In other words locking them to try to spin alike. You will burn things because the motors are never identical. I did these tests years ago with help from Neu Motors and Castle Creations.

The noise you are hearing is a harmonic vibration because of the difference between the motors.

Best way to do this cheap is use a common feed to separate controllers. But you can still get fighting between the 2 motor systems because of motor differences.

Now I had great results using the hall effect switches as regulators to make the separate motors spin at the same speed and stay synced. But that took more processing from outside the controllers. Now this could be accomplished with the use of Raspberry Pi or the like.

[spinnanz]

Running both like this will be fine but they will be noisier under load than normal as no hall effect sensors are used.

Controllers are cheap, so it would make sense to use 2 controllers, then you can use the hall effect sensors. They can both be connected to the same throttle without issue.

[lemix]

Interesting, I had not even thought about the possibility of running two motors on the same controller, but I find it an interesting experiment.

[dhirenderkumarcarandgadget]

old time big cassette recorder feeling

[rossmacintosh]

I know this video is from four years ago. In that time period commercial e-bikes with dual hub motors have come to market. I have one. Mine is an EMX-Xtreme 500 from Fabulous Ebikes that has two 500w hub motors running on a single KT controller. KT (Kunteng) sell a controller designed to support two motors. In use I'm finding the set-up works really well. With each motor having 80Nm of torque the bike has relatively great acceleration and hill-climbing. On level terrain it appears both motors just share the load put on them by the pedal-assist settings. I can switch on or off the front motor while riding. On level terrain, switching on the second motor does not double the amperage draw. It stays practically the same whether one motor or two. On the EMX-Xtreme 500 the bike comes standard with a 48v 30Ah (1.440Wh) battery. With that I've had real world ranges per charge of 110.4 miles to 156.9 miles. Fabulous Ebikes also sell models with 60v 23.4Ah (1, 400Ah) battery and a pair of 750w hub motors, again with a single-controller solution.

[sorenfox]

I suspect this’d be a lot worse on an actual bike. In this setup, the motors are free to ‘align’ their phases, as they’re spinning in air; on a bike, they’d be forced to travel the same speed (staying out of phase) or, even worse, to travel at different speeds when cornering.

[malomalito]

not even one day past and I had my question answered super cool thanks to ev costumes for your time

[a.bloke.alwayslearning.]

That was good.
He learns the lessons so that we don't have to.

Well done.
.

[dingski_diy]

Very nice sir, now you kmow im not lying.. We used 1kw controller on 2 500watts hub motor. I think this setup will burn the controller if the 2 motor have load. Thank you sir

[ErCanEverything]

Very good explanation thanks for the video my Friend🙌🙂🤝🤝🤝

[Fatpumpumlovah]

with 2 controllers you still splice in both hall effect sensors for one controll, this is all you had to do and they would sync. In addition they are both running the same direction, one side if used on a trike would require you to swap any 2 wires on the motor going backwards around.

[TechMasterRus]

I knew the experiment result before you started it, because of the physics of running BLDC without sensor. Of course, it's no point in connecting sensors together. This setup will work only in case the motors are ideally synchronized. Any small deviation will lead to oscillation in both motors and reading of feedback by controller will be something weird because rotors are in different positions. This "strange sound" is resonance of this system and in fact it sounds strange not only in resonance. All the time it's consuming excess power to keep oscillations going (but rotors are trying to sync).
It's OK to some point when motors are rotating independently without ground contact. If you try to place them on a bike and turn somewhere, there the biggest problem will occur because motor speeds will be slightly different. They can behave unpredictably.

[sickssix]

Twin 350w hub motors in fat wheel downhill bike with 24v 500w bottle and rear rack batteries. Rear rack holding controller unit. All cables routed through jumbo alloy frame. Bluetooth the display and speed sensors. Thats a sensible build.

[kyleo]

I would think there would be miscommunication with the hall effect sensors. They have to be able to tell the motor where the windings are but if both motors are in different positions the controller won't send a proper signal to the motors.

[mjones]

The motors are out phase. Probably 30-40% of the power when both motors are running is canceling out on the wire. You have to have either the sensors or the return signal developed by ESC aligned, so they fire the correct polarity at the correct time for both of them. Probably be easier to add sensors if there not already in there.