A Super Simple 18th Century Underpetticoat Hand Sewing Tutorial

The 18th century under petticoat was an essential part of everyday dress for Georgian fashion. In this installation of the historical sewing for beginners series, you get to learn in-depth (step by step) how to hand sew an under petticoat from the 18th century, which was worn under stays (early version of a corset) and over a shift (early version of a chemise) with other layers on top.

This Georgian under petticoat is made from a warm but lightweight 100% wool flannel, which makes it an ideal option for liminal months where the weather is very much in between, as well as winter where it can be layered to provide extra warmth. If you're going to be wearing a historically inspired, historybounding, or historically accurate 18th-century ensemble during a colder month, this historical wardrobe staple is a MUST.

Historical dress might feel complicated to sew, but this hand sewing tutorial is beginner-friendly and designed for those who don't have access to expensive materials or even a sewing machine (no sewing machine needed).

It can be made using merely 1-3 metres of fabric, and in all honesty, you could probably utilise an old wool blanket from a charity shop, saving yourself even more money. While the construction and pleating may seem complex, this video breaks down the steps in a simple and concise manner for the greatest possible clarity.

To make this 18th-century under petticoat, you will need:
-A hand sewing needle and silk or linen thread
-Beeswax
-1-3 metres of wool flannel (or old wool blankets) or fabric of choice
-2-3 metres of cotton twill tape (2cm-4cm width recommended)
-Pins
-Tape measure
-Ruler
-Thimble
-Tailor's chalk (or another marking tool)
-Embroidery scissors
-Fabric scissors

The hand stitches that you will need to learn (which are all included in my aforementioned 7 essential hand sewing stitches video) include:
-Basting stitch
-Back stitch
-Whip stitch
-Felled stitch
-Mantua maker's seam (optional)

Finally, this project took me about 6 hours to complete from start to finish with a dinner break, having to film the entire thing, and also choosing to hand sew the garment, so my estimate is for most individuals hand sewing it would require around 5 hours, however, it could be shorter or longer depending on how fast you hand sew.

Time Stamps:
0:00 Intro
1:00 Stitches You Need to Know
1:28 Fabric Requirements
2:58 Materials You'll Need
3:26 Taking Your Measurements
5:14 Hemming Your Petticoat
7:03 Making the Side Opening
7:17 Sewing Your Side Seam(s)
9:02 Preparing for Pleats
10:39 Folding and Securing Your Pleats
15:04 Whip Stitching the Waistband
17:29 The Grand Reveal
18:01 Outro & Surprise!

All music used is from Epidemic Sound.

#18thcenturytutorial #underpetticoat #historicalsewingforbeginners

[VBirchwood]

How did you find following this historical sewing tutorial? Be sure to tag me on your creations on Instagram! @vasiofficial

[dawnmoriarty]

I wish you had been my sewing teacher at school! I have extremely painful memories of being shouted at constantly for doing my pleats "the wrong way". Whatever the "right way" was, was never explained

[fuzzytheduck]

Thank you so much for validating my uneven pleats

[loretta]

Was just at my local walmart in the fabric section and seen two beautiful cotton fabrics that I know would make an excellent shirt and skirt. Wasnt sure how I would make a petticoat for my skirt then I saw your video! Now Im sure I can make my historical outfit 😊

[skirtedgalleons]

Thanks for this. I'd love to see a quilted petticoat, the kind that shows under the open gown.

[ReneeneeP]

Awesome tutorial, I love it. I can't wait to build my own historical wardrobe. Thank you for being inspiring, upbeat, and a pure joy to watch. :)

[penelope-oevr]

I am disabled, so I'm unable to do as much hand sewing as I'd like. So I bought a beautiful 1907 hand crank sewing machine, and it satisfies me to be as close to hand sewing as I am able to. It also can make the absolute most microscopic tiny stitches, unbelievable and a joy to use.

Also, I am moving up north permanently, from the south, and I need Warner clothing. I was thinking about making a petticoat out of windproof fleece material. Also, I will be making a quilted one that has wool batting.

[crazychicken]

How do you keep the underpetticoat from sticking to the outer garment? How do you avoid static?

[junekaplan]

I noticed how bulky your leather thimble is and I have a tip that might help! I have discovered that pressing your thimble against a hot iron (either in a finger sized dowel, or, if your careful, your finger itself) it not only firms the leather to be more resistant to the needles, but it shrinks it to fit exactly you finger size. Mine stay on without any gathering at the base now.
Love your videos,
June

[MultiTaylorswift]

I love this so much! Was that a regency spencer you wore in the beginning? I love you so much because I also love historybounding but felt I was alone in it when it come to being more historically accurate and wanting to wear it everyday. You’re such an inspiration and so talented. Please film a wardrobe tour of all your glorious clothes!

[leahandmeleah]

I’m new to sewing and I’m going to use this tutorial to made a cotton petticoat. I hope it works out. I’m also making a prairie style skirt to go over it. I’m off to buy fabric. We shall see how it goes!

[spleens]

Thank you for making this video! I made one out of linnen yesterday.

[ericalarochelle]

Thanks for putting this together; it is quite interesting and helpful to see how a wide range of garments, both in function and time period, are constructed. As ever, the description below is read and appreciated!

[molypaw]

Hi! Wonderful tutorial I plan to follow - was just wondering if I could ask about the white bonnet/cap you're wearing? What is that style called/Do you have it mentioned in any of your videos? :)

[lunamajor]

I’m 27” around the waist so this is perfect. Thank you 🙏🏻

[yellowbird]

heck yeah I'm gonna try this this weekend!

[catherinejustcatherine]

Tbh, I wanted your calm smooth voice for company while working on a pocket for my doll's dress.

I have made many similar skirts, just not generally with what I believe are "box" pleats . I do a 3 times pleat when I can, and face the right side all around to the back & the left side mirroring it, with only one box pleat in the center front.

[mackenziegavin]

This was such a helpful video! I'm surprised at how thin the waistband is, I have seen petticoats with slender ties being fastened over the stays and wondered about underpetticoats: does the thin band sit comfortably or does it dig in to your waist? Love the channel, keep it coming!

[xill]

This was a lot of fun! Can you do a tutorial on some gathered skirts/petticoats too please? I am excited for your new video.. :))

[daughterofthewildwood]

I loved this video. It was great to see a hand sewing tutorial of a petticoat. I do have a few questions though. Can the skirt be longer than mid calf length? Can you use thicker twill tape for the waist strings? Can you cut it down both side (or use two rectangles) and tie it at both sides?