3D Printed Gearbox (Herringbone Gears) - Speed Test

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In this 3d printed gearbox experiment we will see how these new engineering design considerations impact how well this 3d printed gearbox works. We will go through the engineering process as well and conduct a speed test to see how fast we can get the gearbox to spin.

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Thank you for your support and Happy Printing!!
-Steven
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(Engineer here)
The teeth type is one of the best for this situation, well done on this one. But give a shot to these two/three things.
1:use something to prevent the axes from bending, (a flange between the gears)
2 and most importantly: jumping a whole milimeter just because 75 didn’t do is an overkill. Usually when one adjusts gears, you need about .1-.2mm between them (space just enough for a piece of paper to get roller between the gears) this is something that will prevent more of the teeth jumping you had when applying torque.

3: lubricant is not really needed in my opinion since the surfaces are rough and you don’t care about the lifetime. Try treating the parts with acetone moisture to reduce the roughness.

Add some weight to the one of the three last gears so they perform as a flywheel.(this might be dangerous)

Pretty nice project, would be lovely if you measured the output speed.

silverX
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I think a lightweight aluminum flywheel at the end would help it store energy when it's up to speed, you'll have to start w bit slower but it'll make it run smoother and you can crank more consistently too

therandomman
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IDK if you've tried this, but you can get the bearings to run much better by removing the shield and then using degreaser to remove the very thick lube. You can replace the lube with a drop of sewing machine oil, or just run the bearings 'dry', which does decrease their lifetimes significantly. But it's still hours of working condition.

The shields are removable by flat screwdriver, and can be pushed in again afterwards.

janimelender
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Just a general note, when installing press fit bearings you should always use a collar (between the bearing and hammer, or press) that ensures your hammer strikes will only transfer to the outer bearing race (in a pinch, a socket with the closest diameter to the outer race will work). If the bearing is being press fit onto a shaft you would only apply force to the inner race, just to be clear, it depends on the application.

Striking the bearing as you do in this video can cause bearing ball deformity and indentations to the race surfaces.

For this application it's not really a big deal, but for more constant use applications it's best to develop good habits for bearing installation.

HonorNecris
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Dry lube next time maybe. I assume the gears are slipping because of the rod deflecting in the middle? Or because of spacing?

How about thrust bearings between the gears? That would probably help.

iandrake
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Use spacers. You’re getting a LOT of friction from the gears touching

MyLonewolf
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Every dude here thinking he can break it.

derekfuqua
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Man, I really appreciate how long this has been going. Most people would just brush off people doubting your design or questioning the legitimacy of your attempts with this and throw math in our faces about why you actually did do your best. Instead you just keep iterrating this design and making it more efficient.

One suggestion, if I may, is the grip of the handle really optimal? That is to say, the point the sticks out toward you, not the bar perpendicular to the machine. Your hand keeps gravitating toward it, and I think causes the force you're exerting on the machine to be misaligned, causing energy loss and also making it a lot easier to break the handle. It may have also been the source of some of those stutters in this test. Perhaps making the grip larger so you can hold it firmly in your hand would be better?

chaincat
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Never heard of micro center and I'm just getting into computers, wiring, programming, etc. This will be great. I'm glad you're sponsored by them and you shared this since I'm just up the 57 from them. I've been fascinated by your 3D printing and the gear boxes, and now this is great too. Thank you!

danniboi
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Axels not stiff enough needs more support inbetween, especially where the highest torque is transmitted.
Also put it in an acrylic casing and submerge about a teeth of the bigger gears in oil and make a structure on the lid that will drip the oil from the case down on the gears.
Suggestion for no. 1 : individual axels and support with screws connecting the corresponding gear pairs, this means you can separate the gears and get your needed support structures, while also helping out with alignment adjustments and customfit design.

Edit: spelling of torque

EnraEnerato
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I dont think the gears are at fault for the slipping. I think its rather the stiffness of the setup thats to blame. Maybe try a steel carrige and shorter axil lengths. This with a metal handel should be able to give you much higher speeds and input torque. There are also a lot of good lubing and bearing advice in the comments.

Snoozyl
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That's a great visual for how a transfer case works in a 4wd truck

yotaboi
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3:12 This is my kingdom come
this is my kingdom come

Alternative_Dmitriy
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I don't know why I got this video in my recommended list but it's cool, I really enjoyed watching this.

juanjosedelpinorivas
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“the day before they called me I actually purchased a 3d printer”
*i always feel like somebody watching me*

Soporonix
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4:50 AYYYY MY MAN KNOWS THE BEST FLAVOUR!

elismart
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I just realized the internet is a place where a buncha people do a buncha different things.

NightBread
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I'm so glad to see this finally be attempted, I'm sure there's other video's out there. But I haven't seen any. Definitely going to follow progress!

berzerkfurry
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You should maybe include some trays for the lubricant and a splash shield to keep it on the gears. You should also rig a timing counter to determine how fast your last gear is moving, and see if there is a max output or point of diminishing returns

keithrobicheux
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After 30 ads I finally can access this video

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